Materials
Multiple of Pine structual MGP10 Blue H2 70*35mm*2.4m
Box of Anka Screw 8mm*75mm Gold passivated Zinc
500 of External Timber Screws Countersunk 10-8*75mm
4L Cabots Natural Decking Oil
Blue paint tape
Paint brush
Pine facing timber
6 of Lane 100*75*2.5mm Satin Stainless Steel Architectural Pin Butt hinge.
Sandpaper
Wood putty
Tools
Nail gun
Makita Compound saw 255mm slide
Nail Gun
Ozito 18V Cordless drill and Impact driver kit
Paint brush
Makita impact drill
Steps
Step 1
I cleaned the work area wider then I expected to use, just in case. As I was the offsider/labourer I wanted to have as much done as possible to save my carpeter mate extra time. Plus $$$ of course. This is the start of the garage retrofit to lockup/secure stage.
Framing with a nail gun made life a lot easier. We used the nail gun to tack the timber together and then put in two timber screws to each join.
Yeah mistakes happen but can be worked around. The door frame plus the prebought upper window just would not fit. Close but no go so the solution was to use the face timber to hold the space and frame the rest.
The Sliding window in place. I was happy with the solution
Step 2
The Side door I wanted fitted into the same area as the old side window. The Lintel didnt have to be changed only two cuts down through the brickwork and across the base were needed. The gas pipe that ran along the side of the house had to be moved also. I wanted to have access to the little courtyard area as it was dead space.
I wasnt around when the carpenter cut the brickwork... I think he figured to send me to Bunnings for something to get me out of the way 🙂
Surprising amount of rubble after the cut.
You can see the gas pipe going around the door area.
Prepping the underside of the doors with oil so I wouldnt have to worry when they were in.
Framing up the side door, It went so much easier then I expected.
The pine facing really brought it together. The measure twice cut once method is a wise way of working... I was told to cut something 1200mm and brain was not working so cut it 1100mm.... Needless to say another piece was needed. That gap on the bottom left was another mistake that "could be filled in with putty" Needless to say no you cant lol Live and learn 🙂
Step 3
The doors I bought from outside bunnings. I only had a short timeline to get them so we could install them. Solid exterior doors. I used three sets of hinges per door as they were heavy. The glass panes were supplied by my carpenter friend (either offcuts or cut to size) I was surprised how easy it was if you knew what was the next step.
Things to consider is what will behind the open door. I hadnt thought of it or potential dead space area.
Making sure the door could be closed with the existing roller door still in place. The glass pane (1 piece) had not arrived yet.
The beading around the glass frame went in so easily.
Backfilling the nail holes with putty before sanding and oiling
Preparation for oiling the timberwork
Step 4
Last steps were oiling and making sure I took the tape off in a timely manner. I must admit I have been slack sometimes and then the tape sticks to the paint or vice versa.
Rough plans for the front facing door and window.
Rough plans for the side door. The final solution was to have the slotted windows on the right hand side. This was to allow for the door being opened and not bumping up against the internal brickwork so easily.
Carpenter mate really pushed that I seal the timber within days. The sun will discolour it fast.
Bought a 500 box and almost went through them all for the whole garage.
Just to give an indication of the actual size I used.
For the framing of the walls and stud walls for the rest of the project
I used these to fasten the frame to the concrete. I had never come across them before as I had only used ramset bolts. these worked a dream, very easy to use and even back out of. Make sure the hole is empty of all dust. I snapped my socket wrench by trying to screw one in with dust in the hole.
The hinges I used, two would be ok, three for sure (figured timber can warp so went with a middle one on each door.)
Step 5
Final step
All done and worked pretty nicely.
One major stuff up tho. When we were doing the sliding window on the front I was busy asking my mate questions of "How to? and should i?" type things, A storm was coming in and the daylight was fading fast so we were working as fast as we could. The "weepage/drain" holes for the sliding windows were covered up by facing timber. This meant when it rained the water hitting the window would run down the front then backwards into the garage. We fixed it by trimming that front face (trimming it to expose the holes so the water drains away) Much laughter and cursing but still enjoyed the project.
The middle horizontal is the part that covered the weep holes. Both doors work well and there is a sloped pice to allow the water to run outside at the bottom of each door. (I have forgotten the name of it)
