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How to attach folding table to brick wall?

Hi there,

I'm going to install a folding desk on the inside brick wall of my garage. I will be using a drill with hammer mode. I also have a level. The desk will be used for light craft applications and won't be exceeding 20kgs of items on it at a time. When upright, I want the surface to be roughly 80cm up from the ground so that it can be used from a seated position.

I'm looking to purchase the following –

Carinya Folding Spring Loaded Bracket x2
https://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-315-x-145mm-white-folding-spring-loaded-bracket_p3970376

Specrite 1200 x 600 x 18mm Golden Teak Acacia Panel

https://www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-1200-x-600-x-18mm-golden-teak-acacia-multi-use-panel_p0456528

I have a few questions and would be grateful for any help before I get started –

Will the Carinya brackets be sufficient for holding up the desk? The panel used for the desk weighs 7.6kg. The bracket length is 315mm and will be running along the 600mm side of the panel.
What type/size of screws/bolts will I need to attach the Carinya brackets to the brick wall? I'm unsure if anchors or dynabolts are suitable.
What size screws will I need to attach the desk to the brackets?
Any advice for how best to go about this task?
– Do I attach the desk first to the brackets, then mount to the wall?
– OR do I attach the brackets to the wall first before mounting the desk?
Anything else I've missed! 😀

Thank you!

Screenshot 2025-12-14 at 1.31.47 PM.png Screenshot 2025-12-14 at 1.32.31 PM.png

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Nailbag

Morning @CROBBO here are the answers to those questions

Q: Will the Carinya brackets be sufficient for holding up the desk? The panel used for the desk weighs 7.6kg. The bracket length is 315mm and will be running along the 600mm side of the panel.

A: Yes the brackets are designed to carry up to 50Kg's this includes the weight of the items sitting on the desk. The most important factor here is to use the right sized drill bit for the wall anchors and suitable screws to fix the desk to the brackets.

Q: What type/size of screws/bolts will I need to attach the Carinya brackets to the brick wall? I'm unsure if anchors or dynabolts are suitable.What size screws will I need to attach the desk to the brackets?Any advice for how best to go about this task?

A: The easiest to use which are my "go-to" fasteners are these "Ramset multipurpose anchors" which I used to hang a dryer on a brick wall for a client on Sat. Each fastener has a holding strength of 32kgs and you will be installing 6/bracket.

Q: Do I attach the desk first to the brackets, then mount to the wall or do I attach the brackets to the wall first before mounting the desk?

A: Brackets to the wall first. First mark the centre of the desk position on the wall. 900mm is a good height for a worksop desk. The most important consideration is that we want to align as many of the bracket's 6 holes in brick and not the soft mortar. The same consideration when spacing them. The holes should be around 20mm in from an edge to avoid the brick possible breaking/cracking during the drilling process. With 6 anchor points/bracket, a couple of them in mortar will be fine. So, you might need to run the pencil line horizontally 20mm away from a mortar line if 900mm lined up within that distance.

Using your level run a pencil line 450mm left and right. Then at 400mm again using your level run a pencil line plumb (level vertically) down 350mm. Position each bracket level with the top of the line and with the right bracket holes along the right edge and mark the holes. This will put then at around 200mm in from the edge of the desk. This is where you might need to position the brackets left or right to avoid mortar.

You will need an 8mm masonry bit to drill the holes. Start slowly until the drill has made some depth to avoid the bit walking off the mark. Don't worry if you go into one or more of the brick voids as there will be still enough depth for the actors to work. Blow out the debris and then tap in the anchors with a hammer. Holding the brackets in place, start installing each screw. You can use a drill driver until each screw is all the way in, then I like to finish the last bit with a screwdriver until I can't turn them by hand. PPE for this job will be ear and eye protection.

Position the board central to the hinges (600mm). Then it's safe to use these 20mm wood screws to secure your 18mm desk top as the thickness of the bracket metal will be 2mm or greater. They don't require a pilot hole, just drive them straight in.

Q: Anything else I've missed!

A: Nope!
Nailbag

JacobZ

Hi @CROBBO,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is wonderful to have you with us.

It's fantastic to see that @Nailbag has already jumped in with some great advice. I would follow his advice closely to ensure a solid installation.

If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

AlanM52

Hi @CROBBO,

You already have all the good advice and I will leave you with my heavy duty version.

The legs swing out and the workbench folds down with same load capacity as four legged workbench.

Cheers

CROBBO

Hi @Nailbag,

This is incredibly helpful! Thanks so much for taking the time to explain each step.
I've got the confidence now to give it a go! Cheers.

CROBBO

Hi @AlanM52

This is great! Love the sketch. Thanks for the help.

CROBBO

Hi @Nailbag,

So i've gotten underway and ran into a little issue – after drilling the holes with the 8mm drill, I'm trying to hammer the Ramset anchors in, but they start bending after getting the first 2/3rds in. Do you have any advice for getting the anchors in properly? Thanks.

IMG_6727 Large.jpeg

Nailbag

You simply haven't drill the holes deep enough @CROBBO

Use pliers to twist it back out then re-drill deeper and blow out the debris. A piece of tape on your drill bit will help you know when you're at depth. You can actually go as deep as you like, just not shorter obviously.

Once the anchor is in all the way you can use a chisel to slice the anchors end lip off so your brackets sit flush to the brick.

Nailbag

CROBBO

Hi @Nailbag,

Thanks to your help I managed get this done! So I ended up totally wrecking the first masonry drill bit I used for the first two holes. I started with the 8mm bit from a Ryobi multi-bit kit. I pressed too hard and without stopping, so heat ended up rendering it useless. Did a bit of googling on masonry drilling, and discovered I should be moving the bit in and out as I go and applying firm but minimal pressure so that the hammer function can do the work.

Once I knew how to manage the drill properly, I bought a second bit from Bunnings and that fared a lot better. You recommended the Full Boar, but I ended up getting a Sutton 8.0 x 120mm masonry bit after chatting to a staff member. Took my time instead of putting my weight behind the drill and it got there slowly but surely with 18V ONE+ Hammer Drill. I also sprayed some water in the hole and dipped the bit in water every so often.

I positioned the brackets about 750mm up as I'll be using the bench from a seated position. I mounted the Teak Acacia Panel using Zenith 8G x 15mm timber screws (instead of 200mm as I thought these might crack the panel surface after lining them up.)

I'm happy with the result overall. I'd say a couple of points I could've considered better –

Leave a little space between the panel and the brick when mounting, as the unlocking function of the brackets is a bit stiff with no breathing room.
The brackets only extend 315mm along the 600mm panel's depth. While the panel is stable, there is some flex on the unsupported half of the panel when resting your forearms. For my application (light craft work) this is fine, but if you wanted better stability I'd find some deeper brackets.
I could have marked the points to drill with pencil on tape. Marking the brick and soft mortar directly made it far more difficult to trust my measurements.

Thanks again! I'll use the measuring and anchor techniques you taught me to install shelves next.

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JacobZ

Hi @CROBBO,

I'm glad to see @Nailbag's advice was super helpful to you, and you've managed to install your folding table. Congratulations on a job well done.

If you wanted to reinforce that outer edge to reduce the flex, you could always add some reinforcing to the underside of the timber panel. A few pieces of 30 x 30mm Tasmanian Oak oriented in the shape of a ladder could be screwed to the underside of the panel with some 40mm screws to help take the weight and remove some of that flex.

If you're happy with things, there's no need, but it would be a relatively simple way to reduce the flex that you wouldn't even need to unscrew the panel to do.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

CROBBO

Hi @JacobZ

Thanks for your reply. This sounds like a good solution! Would it be possible to provide a rough sketch of the design please?

JacobZ

Hi @CROBBO,

There's not much to it; you'd just measure the distance between the brackets and build the frame so that it comfortably fits between them and extends to around 100mm from the front and back edge. Screw it all together, then screw it to the underside of the panel.

By screwing it together before attaching it, pressure applied to the long piece at the front would be transferred through the screws into the three shorter pieces, which would distribute the load over a wider area and more material.

Let me know what you think and if you have questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

CROBBO

Hi @JacobZ

Nice, thank you! That makes a lot of sense.

Once I've done the measurements, would I be able to get the timber cut to spec at Bunnings?

Thanks,
Rob

JacobZ

Hi @CROBBO,

The minimum length we can cut to instore is 600mm, so unfortunately, it would not be possible.

I'd suggest grabbing a Craftright Mitre Box And Saw Set, which will make it easy to cut the timber to size yourself.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

CROBBO

Hi @JacobZ

Great, I'll look into it thanks.

Do you think long-term I'll be OK with a bit of flex on the panel? I don't really want to warp it or apply too much pressure on the brackets if that's avoidable.

Thanks,

JacobZ

Hi @CROBBO,

I don't think it is a huge issue as long as it gets folded down when not in use, and you don't put a heap of weight on it. If you left it unfolded for long periods of time, there's a good chance it would sag, so folding it down when not in use would be the best thing you can do in its current state.

Adding that little bit of reinforcement should stop it from sagging, so it's probably the best thing you can do.

Jacob

Nailbag

Thanks so much for the update and very glad our advice helped along the way @CROBBO That bench looks awesome.

I guess you could consider a 3rd bracket if you're finding the sag a little too much. Alternatively you could simply have a removal centre leg to take that weight on projects needing more stability.

One thing I learnt decades ago, is that the accessories that come with DIY powertools are often of a low grade, especially masonry bits. I was given a small box of 6mm masonry bits and would you believe I cooked all of them before drilling one 40mm hole in to solid brick. So, I went down to Bunnings, bought one for about $7 and that same bit lasted me for dozens of future holes. That one you bought will do the same. But it is important to not just lean on them for extended periods causing even the best to over heat. Drill a little bit, pull the bit out to clear the debris and repeat. This will allow the bit to drill faster holes, with less heat build up from the dust its already drilled through.

Nailbag

CROBBO

Hi @JacobZ,

Thanks for the advice and mock-up on reinforcing the bench I put together! It's definitely added the extra stability I was after –

IMG_6742 Large.jpeg IMG_6743 Large.jpeg IMG_6744 Large.jpeg

A big lesson for me was drilling pilot holes first. This made connecting the support piece a breeze.
I drilled a screw into the 30x30mm hardwood without pilot holes on a test piece and it split straightaway.

New questions!
So I've added some shelves above the desk that I'm pretty happy with how they turned out.
I got some 1200mm wide timber pieces and stained them with Cabot's water-based interior stain and varnish.

IMG_6752 Large.jpeg

One of the major issues I had attaching the brackets to the brick wall was the time it took per hole and the amount of bits I smouldered to do it!
I was spending up to an hour just drilling a single hole. Throughout I'd cool off the bits in water after a few minutes of continuous drilling and also spray the hole down. I'd read not to apply too much pressure, but I was making so little ground making the 6cm deep holes that I was forced to apply some.
Unfortunately, this would dull the bits quicker making it harder to keep straight lines while drilling. A couple of the brackets ended up wonky because of this.

I figured perhaps the cordless Ryobi drill with hammer function wasn't up the the task, so I went and got this corded Ryobi hammer drill and fresh Full Boar masonry bits after dulling a couple of the Sutton bits. This sped up drilling time a little bit, but seemed most effective when coupled with a fresh drill bit. By the end of a hole, the drill bit had dulled enough to be ineffective for the next hole.

Could someone please let me know if there is advice for drilling holes into brick more efficiently?

Is there a functional difference between the bit I've been using and this one?

I'm planning on adding another shelf opposite the desk on a veneer brick wall attached to the house side of the garage.
The depth of the brick is about 8.5cm to the window frame. Like the previous wall, I'll be drilling holes about 6cm deep to accomodate these anchors & screws.

IMG_6751 Large.jpeg

I found on the previous wall, I'd run into a hollow within the brick about 4-5cm deep. Is this standard for my type of brick?
Before drilling these new 6cm holes on the house side, would it be safe to assume that I wont be at risk of drilling through the brick and into any electrical wires etc?

Thanks!

JacobZ

Hi @CROBBO,

Yes, the value of pilot holes becomes pretty evident the first time you attempt to drive a screw into something and split your workpiece in half. I'm glad that the reinforcement helped out.

Standard hammer drills will get there eventually, but they are noticeably slower and harder on bits compared to a proper rotary hammer drill like the corded unit you picked up. What you experienced with drilling time and bit wear lines up with that.

Fresh masonry bits always perform best, so it is normal to notice a big drop off by the end of a hole if they have been put under considerable strain. Brick also tends to be harsher on drill bits when compared with concrete or besser blocks, as kiln firing them creates an extremely strong outer surface that will heat up and wear down the bit considerably. The steps you are taking to cool the drill bit are good. The only other thing I could recommend is starting with a smaller masonry bit, for example, 4mm, to drill an initial hole, then follow up with the larger 8mm bit. Having less material to punch through makes the strain on the bit considerably less, so doing it in two stages will reduce wear and you'll likely find that it is faster.

Functionally, the Full Boar 8mm TCT Masonry Drill Bit and the Full Boar 8mm x 160mm 4 Cut Tip for SDS-Plus Hammers do the same thing, but there are two main differences.

A 4-cut masonry bit spreads impact across four cutting edges, which keeps the bit more stable, drills straighter, and reduces chipping compared to a 2-cut tip. It also wears more evenly, so it stays effective for longer in hard materials like brick.

The other difference is that the 4-cut bit is an SDS-plus bit, which is designed to lock into an SDS (slotted drive system) chuck, which is a quick-change bit holder on many rotary hammer drills. The SDS system is specifically designed to efficiently transfer the percussive force into the drill bit and then into the wall. Unfortunately, your new Ryobi drill uses a standard 3-pronged chuck, not an SDS chuck, so this benefit is lost if it were used in your drill.

Yes, house bricks will usually have hollows in them, so this is to be expected. Electrical cables are not run through the hollows in your brick, so as long as you are not drilling more than 110mm, which is the standard width of a house brick, then there is no risk of running into electrical cables.

I hope this helps to clarify things. Please let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

CROBBO

Hi @JacobZ,

Thanks so much for answering my questions – big help!

Would it still be possible to fit an SDS drill bit in the 3-pronged chuck of the Ryobi drill I picked up? May be worth a try vs the 2-cut bit I've been using.

Cheers,

JacobZ

Hi @CROBBO,

It would physically fit in the chuck, but the prongs may line up awkwardly with the slots in the SDS bit, which can cause it to wobble.

I'd also be very careful if there is any wobble, as there's a chance it could snap, which would leave you with a drill bit stuck in the wall.

You could give it a try, but I'm not sure how effective it would be. If you wanted to be more certain, the 2-cut bit is made for this style of chuck, so it would give you more surety, at the expense of a bit of effort.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

CROBBO

@JacobZ Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

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