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How to convert my carport into a studio?

Hi, due to lack of funds I need to DIY my conversion of carport to an enclosed studio.

My home is on a slope, so when it rains my carport floods. I need to find a cost friendly solution for this. I have already started digging a channel on one side, but it has gotten hard due to root systems. On the other side I haven't even tried, as it is full of vegetation, so I wanted to reassess my options. I am concerned that on the vegetation side I wont be able to create a slopped channel to redirect the water as there is pavement from the drive.

One side of the carport has a permanent structure. The other two sides have sloped land causing the water to pour in the car port. I want to build walls using clear corrugated polycarbonate. On the front side I want to create sliding doors, with a fixed wall section. Space is approximately 5mx5m. The front I want to do each door 1.5m and 2m fixed wall. I believe I may need to add a concrete section on the left hand side, in front of the fixed structure, for the sliding door track. (Thinking I could store bins there too if I make it big enough.)

If I attach panels to the inside of the existing structure, then I do not need flashing, but then I have nothing to connect my framing to. If I attach the panels to the outside I can attach framing to existing structure, but then I will need flashing. But I don't want to have to undue roof structure to install, is there a way to do this?

When making the framing, what is the minimum of uprights that I need? Horizontals?

I'm very unclear how the bottom of the walls will seal out water.

Also what to do in the corners where the two walls meet, as well as where the corrugated meets the fixed structure?

For sliding doors, how do I insert track to pavement?

I need help with a materials list.

Like how I will attach framing? How will i secure to concrete?

I already have my Polycarbonate sheets, but I need to cut in half and I need the screws to attach to framing.

I am sure there are many things I will not think of that I will need.

TIA!!

front view of carportback side prior to digafter digback side/ side with permanent structureother side I need to dig, but full of vegetation

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JacobZ

Hi @zmw,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

There's a fair bit to unpack here, so forgive me if I miss anything. If I miss anything or you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask them.

The first thing I'll note is that weatherproof structures are purpose-built from the foundation up, so it can be tricky to retrofit something and make it truly weatherproof. There are certainly things you can do, but it is likely going to be more involved than you think. It's also worth noting that closing in a structure will often require council approval, so you should start by checking whether this is required where you live.

As a starting point, it might be worth drawing a top-down plan of the build with some measurements and uploading it. The photos and description are great, but it isn't the easiest to picture what you are trying to achieve and how things sit in relation to each other. A simple drawing with measurements and labels is the best way to convey this information.

Nailing your drainage is the first thing you'll need to do, and the channel you have started digging is a good start. In an ideal situation, you would excavate all the land around the structure so that it sits below the foundation and slopes away from it. In your situation, this doesn't seem possible, but excavating the soil so it is further back from the structure is going to be vital. Ideally, the soil should sit at least 100mm below the top of the concrete slab on all sides. On the side that is currently full of vegetation, it looks like you might need to install some retaining walls to hold back the soil in order to achieve this.

Once the soil has been removed and retained, you'll want to install drainage, such as drainage channels or french drains, which transport the water to a location elsewhere, preferably a stormwater pipe that connects to your council stormwater system.

Your framing should be constructed with H2 framing timber, with plascourse attached to the underside of the bottom plate so it isn't in direct contact with the concrete. Each stud wall will need a top and bottom plate that runs the length of the wall with vertical studs at 600mm spacings.

The frame should be attached to the concrete with masonry anchors.

You'll also need to look at where your framing will sit. If it sits inside the roof beam, this would be better as the gaps at the top of the corrugations would be protected from rain. The drainage you've installed should do most of the work, keeping the rainwater out at the base, but sealing the corrugated sheets to the concrete with silicone would also be worthwhile.

To attach your polycarbonate sheets to the framing, you would use polycarbonate roofing screws like these Bastion Type 17 Class 3 Polycarbonate Roofing Screws.

The installation of the sliding door is relative to the door you choose. Each type of door will have different requirements, so checking what they are during the planning stage will guide you on how they need to be installed.

The truth is, this is a complicated project, and there are many steps you'd need to take to ensure it is done right. I hope this gives you something to start with, and I am happy to assist further if required.

Allow me to tag our knowledgeable members @Dave-1, @Nailbag, @AlanM52 and @JDE to see what they think and if they have any advice to offer.

Jacob

AlanM52

Hi @zmw,

You have started digging which if fine so let's do some step-by-step drainage planning - including costs.

The first thing we need to decide is the type of drain so the proper trench can be dug.

Drain Choice:

@JacobZ suggested the Everhard drainage system and having used that on many jobs - I agree.

Forgetting the stainless steel version leaves us with a choice of two - compact or regular.

I recommend the regular 3M length.

Everhard 3m EasyDRAIN Polymer Grate And Prejoined Channel.jpg

With your budget in mind I would like you to estimate the number of 3M lengths required and is the cost OK to proceed.

Trenching:

I am asking @JacobZ if we agree on a trench width of 160mm.

I use a best fit trenching shovel.

For smaller tree roots I use a crow bar and for larger roots scoop out soil from underneath so I can 'nick' cut with the tip of the chainsaw.

I'll be back...

Cheers

Dave-1

Good Evening @zmw

🙂 Love the idea of using a carport/garage for added space...

Even tho I have done the same I shoudl mention that councils generally dont like the garage being converted, mainly because teh car that was in the garage, is then outside, the car outside is now potentially on teh street and blocking it somewhat. I had a town plannere explain that to me and yeah it makes perfect sense 🙂 I still have long driveway that fits two cars before the footpath. Its worth checking with your local council for sure.

Looking at your pics and reading your description I will layout some must haves, should haves and things to factor in.

Must have -

- Drainage needs to be sorted to the maxium amount possible, otherwise all yoru work will end up with water inside. @JacobZ mentions that the drainage should be 100mm below the slab. I whole heartedly agree with him. I did NOT do that for my retrofitting and then had to come back and escavate a large chunk of earth/clay/piping. Fixing water ingress issues in garage shows how I fixed my issue.

- Sketch your idea out first and then accurate measurements of your garage and what you want to do. Floor to ceiling should be 2.4m if its less then you are going to cook in an oven 😕

- The drainage needs to go somewhere away from teh garage and preferably into the stormwater system or reuse within your yard.

- Retaining walls for both sides that you have soil against, preferably with an air gap between them and the building. The roots/shrubs/trees will have to go or plans changed to accomodate them. Gabion Wall to stop water ingress to garage

Should haves -

- Ceiling height 2.4m

- Slope of existing floor? is it level?

- Does the carport have power?

- Think of ways to cool the room in summer/winter. Whirly birds, slatted windows.

- The stud walls that @JacobZ has mentioned is a good way to go. Here is what I did with my garage. Garage lining for stud walls stage 1 and Garage lining for stud walls stage 2 (Cornice and skirting boards)

Factoring in -

- Ceiling insulation

- Types of windows.

- Does the concrete driveway have a flow back effect on the water, as in does the water flow from the driveway even party to underneath the carport? If it does then a channel will need to be cut in the driveway concrete and drainage installed.

I really like these projects and if you break it down into smaller sections it becomes doable. Drainage, walls, channels cut, windows, sliding doors or concertena doors, screens. Lining of the walls are all smaller projects that lead you to having a very nice studio. 🙂

Bookcase retrofit to create a garage library As a final, well 80% final look 🙂 I think it was well worth the effort that went into creating the area (As yours will be 🙂 ) But would throw out anything that you say "thats cheaper" to do this way 🙂 It will come back to bite you.

Looking forward to seeing yoru plans 🙂 The crew will have heaps of ways to do each stage I am sure.

Dave

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