How to replace lattice wall in garage?

[Scootergirl]

Hi - I have a lattice panel in my garage that forms a wall and runs between 2 support posts. The lattice is attached to frame attached to the support posts; & it sits about 15 cm off the concrete floor. The photos show the set up. 
As I use part of my garage as a work space, i want to replace the lattice with solid panels - but I’m not sure what to use. The exterior part needs to be weather proof & I want to run it down to the concrete floor. I don’t have much width to play with, as the garage door hinge is attached to the post on one side; and there is only 5cm between the post & the stairs on the other side.  

Can anyone suggest a cheap & relatively simple solution? It doesn’t need to be 100% weather or gap proof - just enough to stop most of the wind & weather; & prevent any random animals getting in ( i recently discovered something had peed on some fabric I was storing there 😬)

Thanks

  

 

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @Scootergirl,

Thank you for your question about replacing the lattice wall in your garden.

A simple option you could use to add some wind and weather protection to the lattice is to install some bistro blinds on the outside of the lattice. This would be a relatively simple option that could offer a good level of protection without a huge amount of expense or work. As long as there is enough gap between the step treads and lattice, then you could just slip it past them down to the floor.

A more in-depth approach would be to remove the lattice, construct a frame out of H3 framing, attach some plascourse to the underside of the bottom plate to protect from pooling water and moisture rising through the slab, then clad that frame with villaboard. You might like to check out How To Build a Stud Wall and How To Install Villaboard In Bathrooms for some guidance on the basic process, although in different circumstances. 

I note that the gaps in the stairs would allow animals such as possums to get through, so if you were wanting to animal proof your garage, you would need to also block off the underside of the stairs. This could be done by adding risers to the stairs to block off the gaps between them or by constructing a frame on the back side of the stairs as well.

Allow me to tag our knowledgeable members @AlanM52, @Dave-1 and @Nailbag to see what ideas they have.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to reach out.

Jacob

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @Scootergirl 

Having rain and wind come into your workshop area is a pain 😕 I am thinking of a false stud wall that is lined with villaboard as @JacobZ has mentioned. Even a false frame to go up on the underside of your stairs. (made on the ground then lifted and screwed to the underside of your stairs) to stop over friendly neighbours comingthrough Tho possums will get through the smallest holes. For the under stairs section i would make it up in at least two if not three sections.

I wouldnt screw anything to your lattice work as I think the frame wont carry any extra weight 😕

However a cheaper way, tho nowhere near as solid but the lattice work may support it (especially with an extra base beam) would be to use Sunlite 8 1.2 x 0.61m Clear Twinwall Polycarbonate Sheet - 1200mm Its more solid then the bistro blinds but will still allow light through. There are other corrorgated plastic sheets that are lighter but I dont think they would last for a long time.

Dave

[Scootergirl]

Thanks for this!

i should have mentioned that I’ll also be blocking off the under stairs area with a door (as I’ll need some sort of access to clear leaf litter; & to retrieve anything I accidentally drop 😜) 

[JacobZ]

Hi @Scootergirl,

If that is the case, then a timber frame would definitely be the way to go.

Let us know if you have any further questions that the provided guides can't answer. I am more than happy to help.

Jacob

[Nailbag]

Hi @Scootergirl 

I would be inclined to got with the timber frame that @JacobZ mentioned then I would use marine ply, which is already manufactured for permanent exterior fixing. I would seal any cuts made just for added protection. The villa board is also ideal, cutting and fastening a wood product will be a lot easier.

Nailbag