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What size battens for double brick in garage?

Hi, im looking at lining my brick wall in my garage with plasterboard. As it will have services for plumbing and electricity I'll need to batten it out. After looking online it looks like most people use 50x50 battens but I can't find them, are 90x45 studs the next best?

Thanks

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Jewelleryrescue

Hi @mossy_74

You can use 70x 35 pine framing for a gyprock wall saves some money. Or use 90 x 45mm non treated pine as it is not outdoor construction.

To help create space for your pipe work turn the noggins vertically and sitting flush with the gyprock side of the frame.

Please feel free to ask more questions as they pop up

EricL

Hello @mossy_74

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's splendid to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question regarding what battens to use for your brick garage.

It's fantastic that you've received excellent advice from @Jewelleryrescue. Using 70x35 for building a wall frame is ideal, but if you wish it to be much sturdier 90x45 is the next step up.

I also propose having a look at this discussion - Garage converted into library room by @Dave-1. Can you please tell us what you are planning on building in the room?

Here are some handy step-by-step guides:

How To Build A Stud Wall
How To Plasterboard A Stud Wall

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Morning @mossy_74

Ohhh yeah! 🙂 Love having an empty garage to play with! Welcome to The Bunnings Community page, you will see plenty of garage retrofits in here as well as a whole bunch of others, only problem is getting lost in thought wandering through them all!.

I found 70*35mm H2 Structual pine was perfect for me. @EricL was kind enough to list my project 🙂 I actually had a lot of fun rettrofitting the garage, there are also some follow on projects that show the whole fitout to completion of the room.

Some things to be aware of I found

-Garage floor may slope towards the front, place a marble on the floor and watch what happens. I knew mine was but still it caught ne by surprise.

-When drilling out holes to attach the bottom of the stud walls with concrete screws make sure they are blown out of dust or drilled extra deep to allow for fallback.

-Determine if you will have a ceiling or leave the battens in sight.

-When you are getting services mudded in make sure you are clear about where you want them, dont rely on the trades to be physic (lol oh yeah)

-Check you walls for water damage (well water marks, whitish salt stain type deal that may require looking at before plastering over.

-Insulation? I didnt go the route of insulation as the garage is shaded and half in the ground. I also wanted clear rund behind the studs for cables.

-Lighting, Dont rely on just app controlled lighting, make sure you can switch it yourself. (Have found issues with bulbs and powerboards dropping off)

-plastering, easier then expected and hard at first because I hadnt done a whole room before.

I cant think of any more bits that I may have missed. 🙂 I do rem it was a lot of fun from sketching it out and caculating what quantity of materials I would need (And now I know why jobs are quoted high!) Best thing is it was like lego, bit by bit and then the studs were up, plaster bit by bit and the sheets were up, joining the plaster.... LOTS of sanding and dust but wow when I finished 🙂

Dave

mossy_74

Great info, thanks!

mossy_74

I was going to build a full stud wall and drill the base plate to the concrete and the top plate to the joists but have just realised it won't work due to water and gas pipes running along the Junction of the walls and roof so will likely now use 70x45 studs attached directly to the brickwork and pack out to suit.

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @mossy_74

I would like too say good thinking no point in making life and projects extra hard for yourself.

Good clear thinking. The extra space may serve you well when trying to add extra wiring in the future. Never say never.

Enjoy your project. Ask more questions as they arise 🙂

Dave-1

Morning @mossy_74

🙂 Either way works, Id suggest to take some photos or draw a sketch and put it away. That way if something goes wrong down the track you know where stuff is. Even to the point of marking out distances with a tape meausure.

I had my gas pipes do the same thing in one corner and it was easy to sit down and "jigsaw" the way arpound it. My brick wall was not true vertical by a long shot, sometimes as much as an inch out. That was one reason I went with a stud wall so that could be vertical and not worry about what the bricks were doing.

Dave

mossy_74

Will do Dave. I was also surprised it's not easy to get the H2 blue timber, seems hardly anyone stocks it (here in vic anyway)

Dave-1

@mossy_74

Heheheheh maybe because I am in NSW 🙂 Yeah I have noticed that when I have gone to QLD bunnings ,what I expect to see isnt what is common on the shelves. There should be an equivilent for you in Vic tho (Maybe some building code is different)

The Structual pine was what I was after when I put up the false walls. The blue was what my carpenter mate used for the front window and door frame was the reason I went with the same.

Dave

mossy_74

Just another quick one guys, since I'm screwing battens direct to the wall now and not building a stud wall frame im guessing I really only need to put up battens and noggins and no top and bottom plate? Also screwing the battens to the wall just 7 or 8mm plugs and screws?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-8-x-50mm-blue-wall-plugs-blue-25-pack_p2260643

Dave-1

Afternoon @mossy_74

Ummmmmm Id still wantto put in a top plate and bottom plate. Bottom for the skirting board and also to provide strength to the distance between battens and the top for the same type of deal with cornice.

I used these guys ramset 7.5 x 100mm galvanised masonry anchor screw 50 box and I had never heard of tem before, I had used the old ramset style expanding base for years and the rawl plug you have shown. These worked like a dream into the brick. Incredibly solid and didnt shift a bit.

So think of the depth of timber you are going to use and then add 40mm for it into the brickwork would be a good way of thinking. You can always lay your battens flat instead of standing off Like I did. that way you gain an extra 30mm each side of the room maybe 🙂 (And believe me I did consider the same)

Dave

MitchellMc

Some great advice from @Dave-1 there, @mossy_74, and much along the lines of what I was thinking.

Sounds like the Ramset 7.5 x 100mm galvanised masonry anchor screws worked a treat for Dave, so I'd consider using those. Alternatively, the wall plugs should work too.

Mitchell

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