How high can lawn be against house?

[Drish]

Hi all,

I’m building a new house in Perth, and it’s a double-brick home. I’m keen to do my own landscaping; however, I’m a bit confused about how high I can bring the lawn sand.

I’ve checked with ChatGPT, which suggests the lawn level should be 75–100 mm below the bottom of the weep holes. However, at that level I reach the concrete footing (maybe overpour).  I am planning to put a Gravel strip next to the brickwork, however I am unsure if I need to cut the concrete overpour to make it sit cleanly. 

I’m looking for tips or guidance from anyone who’s been through this.

Thanks in advance.

.

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Drish. It's amazing to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about laying a lawn.

Yes, it’s important to keep a clear gap beneath the weep holes. As a general rule, finished ground levels, whether that’s soil, sand, mulch or gravel, should not be brought up to or above the bottom course of bricks. The damp proof course sits just above this level and is designed to stop moisture tracking up into the wall, so covering that area can allow moisture to bridge the DPC and cause long-term issues.

In practice, this means you should maintain a visible clearance below the weep holes, commonly around 75 to 100 mm. If you are already hitting the concrete overpour at that level, that’s quite common on new builds. It’s not good practice to simply build up against the brickwork, even with gravel, so cutting back the concrete overpour is often the correct approach to allow the gravel strip to sit lower and maintain that clear zone beneath the weep holes. This also helps with drainage and keeps the wall able to breathe.

So your plan to include a gravel strip is a good one, but it does need to be set at the right height. Keeping soil and landscaping materials away from the lower bricks and below the weep line is both good building practice and a building code requirement, and doing it right now will save you moisture and durability problems down the track.

To remove the overpour, you might be able to knock some of it off with a mini sledge, but an angle grinder with a masonry blade is likely the most proficient method. Remember to wear PPE, including a dust mask and safety glasses.

There’s also an earthing wire and electrical conduit running through or near the concrete overpour in that area, so if you do decide to cut it back you need to be very careful not to damage them. If you’re unsure where they run or how to protect them during the work, it’s a good idea to enlist the services of a licensed electrician before proceeding. Taking that extra step will help ensure the work is done safely and avoids creating an electrical issue while you’re trying to solve a drainage and moisture one.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell