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How to get rid of wintergrass without damaging lawn?

i have quite a situation with wintergrass weeds. I’ve purchased oxafert pre emergent herbicide so will be applying this every 3 months to address the issue for next year.

my main question is should I be removing the current weeds given that every time I do it pulls up the underlying grass (sir Walter buffalo)?

any other tips to revive this lawn?

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Comments

EricL

Hello @varusman

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about winter grass.

I propose investing in a Fiskars 4 Prongs Xact Weed Puller, it is one of the most impressive weed pullers I've seen that generally just pulls the weeds out. Getting a bit of damage on the lawn is unavoidable specially if the weed has integrated itself with the lawn's roots. to help with the lawn recovery, I suggest aerating the soil using Saxon Lawn Aerator Sandals and using Scotts Lawn Builder 8kg All Purpose Slow-Release Lawn Fertiliser to fertilize the soil.

I also suggest having a look at these guides and discussions:

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

varusman

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/41362#Comment_41362

Thanks EricL for the very detailed response! I will be looking at the weed puller and the aerator sandals this weekend at Bunnings. On the slow-release lawn fertiliser, should I be using this as well as the Oxafert Pre-emergent Herbicide that I am planning on using every 3 months?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/82826#Comment_82826

Hello @varusman

That is an excellent question. Please don't use the slow-release fertilizer if you are using Oxafert Pre-emergent Herbicide. The Oxafert already contains a fertilizer component, so you don't want to burn the roots of your lawn by applying too much fertilizer.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

varusman

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/106221#Comment_106221

Hi @EricL, thanks for the tips, I used the weed puller and also applied the first round of Oxafert. I am now at the step of purchasing turf and top soil. A couple of questions:
- Which top soil should I use?
- Will I need a fertiliser for the turf (or is this in the top soil itself)
I am also thinking of just removing the entire back section (given there has been so much weed damage, last photo pictured) and I wanted to get your thoughts on this.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/120563#Comment_120563

Hi @varusman,

Scotts Lawn Builder 25L Organic Lawn Soil Topdress & Underlay would be great product to use.

No standard fertiliser is needed for the first three months when laying turf as it can burn the sensitive new roots. You could add some starter fertiliser, though. It's typically not as strong as standard fertilisers.

It would be worth removing the grass that is there, but most importantly, you need to aerate the soil as it is very compacted, which is likely the reason why the grass died back, and the winter grass taken over.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

varusman

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129110#Comment_129110

Thanks @MitchellMc, appreciate the tips.

I aerated the soil about a month ago, using the Saxon Lawn Aerator Sandals recommended. Should I aerate the soil again?

Also, a quick question on how I go about ordering turf from Bunnings. I will probably need around 10 sqm of sir walter buffalo turf (and my local bunnings is Broadmeadows). Do I need to submit a special order and can this be delivered?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134530#Comment_134530

Hi @varusman

Yes, aerating the soil again is very much encouraged before planting new turf. I propose calling your nearest store and asking them if they have any rolled turf available. Cut size might vary so it's best to ask what is the available size? Once you have an idea of the turf roll size you can then calculate how much you 'll need for ten square meters. You can also ask the store to calculate for you. For example, if the turf comes in 500mmx500mm squares, you'll need four squares to make one square meter. Since you need ten square meters you can then multiply four by ten which gives you forty squares.

Timing and availability are crucial when delivering the turf. It's important that the area be totally prepared before you make an order because as soon as the turf arrives it must be planted straight away. Waiting will cause the turf to get damaged and dehydrated. I suggest calling the closest store and asking them how much it will cost to deliver the turf to your home.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to lay turf

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

varusman

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138012#Comment_138012

thanks for all of the tips, I thought I’d give an update. I laid the turf in nov and consistently watered it in throughout the summer. This is what it looked like in mid Jan (very healthy)!

I then mowed it just before Australia Day and this is what it looked like. I’m wondering if I mowed it too short because the section nearest to the edge (pictured in the last photo) is very brown. I checked this recently by lifting one of the edges and it doesn’t look like the roots have taken.

What can I do to fix this brown section?

Do I need to fertilise this as well since I laid the turf in mid Nov and its feb now?

any advice would be much appreciated as the rest of the turf looks good.

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140585#Comment_140585

Hi @varusman,

Thank you for your question.

It definitely looks like the area closest to your garden bed has been scalped. This means the mower was set too low on the cut.

Is there possibly a slight low point right up against the garden edge?

If so, it's possible the wheels on this side of the mower sat in this depression which could cause the blades to be lower than you had initially planned.

If this is the case, you can use sand or topsoil to level out this low spot.

At this stage of growth, it is also a great idea to fertilise your lawn. A spray-on fertiliser such as this Munns Professional 2.4L Green Dominator Lawn Fertiliser Hose-On would be perfect.

Ultimately, your lawn looks healthy, but it could definitely put those extra nutrients to good use.

You might like to have a read through A Seasonal Guide To Lawn Care for some further guidance.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

varusman

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142239#Comment_142239

Thanks Jacob that’s helpful.

There’s no depression I must have just set it to low (I’ll set it to the highest setting next time).

Can I use seasol buffalo lawn spray on fertiliser instead? I’ve been using oxafert on the rest of the grass.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143423#Comment_143423

Hello @varusman

If you've been using Oxafert just recently, please do not use any other fertilizer on the lawn to prevent damaging the roots. Too much fertilizer will burn the roots of the lawn, and they will turn brown and die off.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

varusman

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144323#Comment_144323

I’ve been using oxafert on the rest of the grass not the newly laid turf (I haven’t fertilised this since laying it in November with starter fertiliser).

can I use the seasol on the new turf now?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144971#Comment_144971

The original Seasol version is fine to use on all of it as it's not a fertiliser, @varusman. Just don't use the lawns version as it is a fertiliser. You can only use one fertiliser at a time. For the unfertilised new Buffalo area, you can use the Seasol Lawns version, or the Munns Professional 2.4L Green Dominator Lawn Fertiliser Hose-On would be fine.

Mitchell

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