How to grow plants in a pond?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49138#Comment_49138

Thank you for response.
I wasn’t sure about your response as I didn’t mention cloudiness or silt however I appreciate your interest.
If you think the members you tagged might help I’ll be very grateful.
cheers

Gillian

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/86657#Comment_86657

Hi @gillymrd,

I may have misunderstood what you meant when you said, "the water got really dirty".

Was it not dirty because of the potting mix? Was it more of an algal problem?

I had assumed that the moving water was picking up the light particles in the soil, which is silt.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108731#Comment_108731

Thanks again, the dirty water comment was how it was previously that’s why I have decided to try the floaters (which you sell near the aquatic plants )so that the plants roots basically sit in the water but not the whole pot. .
so I’m looking for suggestions for potting mix for this new system of putting pots in floaters.
thank you.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121672#Comment_121672

Hello @gillymrd

One medium you can try to use is the Brunnings 2.5L Hydro Clay Pebbles. They are baked clay balls made by baking and tumbling natural clay at high temperatures. As a result, they are super lightweight and porous with high air content. Hydro Clay Pebbles have a neutral pH value, are fungus free and will not rot. They also absorb moisture when soaked in water. They are often used in hydroponics and aquaponics where a soil free medium is required. This should keep your water clean and free of soil and dirt.

I also suggest at having a look at the Osmocote 250g Scotts Water Gardens And Aquatic Plants Controlled Release Fertiliser to help keep your plants fertilised.

Here is a handy guide to help with your project: How to grow aquatic plants.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121672#Comment_121672

Just to start off, think about plants only need nutrients not soil. !!! As a casing point hydroponics need no soil consider your pond like a hyroponic pond.

We just mentally assume plants grow best in soils etc because that's how a zillion plants growing real soil getting nutrients out of the soil.

So the real purpose of soil in water is to hold the plants and roots in place while letting the plant root access the water and added nutrients. As long as we feed them with a liquid fertilizer or equivalent with minerals for ponds. Basically, that's what we do for land bases plants anyhow.

Your Question is soil types. Don't use regular potting mix as it will keep mudding the pond in your situation.

@JacobZ is 1000% correct in suggesting aqua Soil mixes usually sold by pond suppliers. Typically, this soil has little to no clay and fine silty partials to cloud /dirty the water.

Your pond ideal Setup is

1 Aqua soil for pots Many to choose from look in your local area.

2 Osmocote Aquatic plant food This is month slow release fertilizer for water and has no nutrients water build up for algae blooms

3 if algae blooms occur green water in vert in a one pond filter pump and uv light for good clean water does not stagnate. As your pond is full sun too.

4 Optional Small pretty fish that don't mind the Out doors as they eat mosquito Larve etc. Fish produce ammonia which is converted via the nitrate cycle ultimately into fertilizer for plants as well so beware not to over do extra nutrients to the pond with fish in there Like the little neon fish. The green water will tell you too much nutrients.

Nice feature pond enjoy hope this helps

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129829#Comment_129829

Thank you so much for your fabulous answer. I will put yours and my other answer together sand hopefully will get it right.
cheers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129830#Comment_129830

I very much appreciate yours and Eric‘s responses and will put them both together and will surely make a success out of it. With fish were you thinking just goldfish?

thanks again I’m very grateful.

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134969#Comment_134969

Hi @gillymrd,

Allow me to tag @Jewelleryrescue so he is notified of your question.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138358#Comment_138358

Your current plant numbers look balanced and ok for small fish. Basically, as a guide 150L 5 to 10 small fish , more more fish and bigger fish vs less water needs less fish and smaller. These fish below will not need a filter and oxygen pump (like an indoor aquarium) in 150L of water as a guide as there is enough surface water area to absorb enough oxygen.

Gold fish (Comets 100Litres) are hardy outdoor fish. Some will get quite big and did you know if they have idea conditions can live for 30 to 40 years. A couple many be 3 or 4 of very small breeds of goldfish that only grow to 30 to 40mm full grown but are best in 200+ litres of water. A little more messy poops etc, will need feeding very small amounts.

All these fish will eat insect larve etc including mosquitos as a part of their diet

White Cloud minnows Well suited to micro ponds and are adaptable and tolerant of cooler climates. Length 2.5 cm 10 as they are small and pretty Approx 150L pond size. Frog friendly

Rosy Barbs Orange color grows to 4.5cm a minimum of 200L will add colour and movement to a pond. Other fish harder to spot from above.

Pacific Blue Eyes Needs 150L pond size grows to 3 cm and frog friendly

(Myth Goldfish only grow the size of a tank ! Not true they will try and grow to their full size every time.)

I will pass on some background information to help guide your choices.

The deal with fish is they need to be small and not too many of them ie over populated . . A fountain increases that absorption/mixing which is great if it is running but too many fish will run low on oxygen if it fails some might die. So Keep numbers low so they will survive with no add ed oxygen source.

Fact : Plants add oxygen to water doing photosynthesis too many will decrease the Dissolved Oxygen as they reuse oxygen at night, and this can kill a bunch of fish if there is too many. Dead organic matter and poop in the pond will decrease oxygen. Hot weather will also decrease water's ability to absorb gasses this will impact fish health , but keep the numbers smaller not bigger everyone is happen.

mich1972

Good afternoon @gillymrd

I am super excited to see your beautiful Water feature take off and become a sanctuary for fish, frogs and wildlife.
I have a bathtub Frog Pond with a variety of different types of water plants. Lots of frogs , Gold Cloud and White Cloud Minnows, Native Pygmy Perch to eat the Mozzie larvae and not eat the frogs eggs or baby tadpoles.
I definitely didn’t use soil as they are adapted to grow in water. It’s a great little Ecosystem 😃 good luck and look forward to seeing more

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49295#Comment_49295

Thank you so much. I’m also very excited and thank you so so much much to you & all the other wonderful responses I’ve had. I’m even more excited because I’m now way more informed than I was. My bowl is 2 m diameter and purchased in Bali years ago & is two hours south of Sydney where I have a holiday cottage and that’s where I’ll be working on it.
I’m collecting a few plants and now have the knowledge. thank you thank you thank you, thank you,

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49295#Comment_49295

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your new aquatic setup.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/86729#Comment_86729

I c its a holiday house 🙂

@mich19721972 likes as well not really goldfish as if they hungry will eat smaller fish. Minnows they can survive possibly unsupported in the ponds water Eco structure eating insect larve as food etc their own population will balance out. There should be enough oxygen absorbed into the water at the ponds surface. They don't need powered anything or feeding like other bigger fish so in a holiday house you can be away with the pond fountain off. Fish might also nibble some of the plant growth of water type plants. Rain these days should be enough to top the water up and refresh the water.

Now you will get black growth on your ponds sides that is the nitrifying bacteria both aerobic and anaerobic that converts fishes' output of ammonia into nitrates for the plants. So clean it of periodically but always leave some for faster pond recovery.

Try to avoid using chlorinated tap water in your pond it will kill the good bugs as a well as bad. And shorten fishes life span. (Have you ever smelt strong pool chlorine? not fun to breath for us consider now the fish need to breath in that underwater.) As a water top up try catching some rainwater or use tank water Chlorinated water say 200 Litres open the air will lose its chlorine in about a week if you have a few buckets. There are some chemical fast liquid dechlorinaters but not needed with a little planning.

Now your knowledge is growing look up the plants you want to put in the pond or are in there just to make sure they are fish frog friendly and not poisonous rare case but never say never.

I would buy some 4-5 fake Lilly pads 100-200mm wide to provide shade for the fish and hide them from overhead birds from snacking on your minnows and also reducing some sun light direct to the water as per algal bloom.

Real Lilly pads need deeper water to grow 300 to 600 mm as a guide. (i seam to recall maybe some dwarf species available?) and water lilies seam to only flower on still waters not near a fountain sprout. But nature will make up the rules as things develop which is half the dread and or fun.

A frog will have to be a hell of a jumper to get up there lol but it might be possible i hope it is possible for your pond.

See how it goes over time you might get frogs. If not consider a test ramp up to the ponds edge and a ramp out off the pond or a floating frog platform like the fake lilly pads.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108782#Comment_108782

Thanks again for your helpful information.
I might get the plants established first (researching if they are fish friendly) then think about the fish. We have lots of eastern dragon lizards and they have in the past been able to climb up to the pond. Also tons of frogs around.
I will post some I going pics as I get started.
thanks again

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121707#Comment_121707

The eastern dragon lizards are nice lucky plenty of frogs are around as that's what they have as part of their menu. Just nature at work. No mention of fish though fish might be too fast.

Enjoy building the eco structure around the pond of yours 🙂

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129830#Comment_129830

Hi again I’m just at the stage of repotting the aquatic plants with the clay pebbles and on the packet it mentions putting a few rocks or stones in the bottom of the pot. Do you advise this remembering that I’m using floaters for my Plants

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134987#Comment_134987

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134987#Comment_134987

The short answer is only add any rocks for your floating ponds ballast needs to sink it or raise its floating level but @EricL clay balls should already be helping there. Add more clay balls to sink the pot or reduce them Keep in mind your floater plant will hopefully get bigger and heavier? and you might need less clay balls later so easier to put a few less in now.. I haven't used clay balls so maybe they are too light to be of good ballast for your floating pots so small rocks are used in the base . So in short the rocks only function is to provide additional weight if needed they ultimately will provide as a filter/base if aqua soil used to stop it leaking out the pot holes.

Question

I never owned the floating pots I was thinking of getting a couple for my pond what do you think of them so far @gillymrd

EricL

I totally agree with @Jewelleryrescue in regards to the amount of stones to be put in. You'll need to find a good balance of stones and clay balls to prevent the plant from totally sinking in the water.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134987#Comment_134987

Stage One

@EricL @Jewelleryrescue

All soil removed replaced with clay pebbles after soaking them for 8 hours. Added the Osmocote release fertiliser tablets to each pot.
Looking a bit lost in my large bowl but will quickly add more. Little solar fountain.

My friendly Eastern Water Dragon very tame.

Thanks for your help, much appreciated

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138378#Comment_138378

Hi @gillymrd

Your little friendly Eastern Water Dragon looks stunning as does your pond.

So now just keep an eye on everything adding Osmocote as they suggest but not more than that as you my get and algal bloom. Totally green water.

Algal blooms use up the available dissolved oxygen and can harm the plants and later the fish. Think of stagnant water verses your clean fresh smelling pond as a reference.

Slightly green is not bad but an indicator to help your pond not go stagnant have a small broom handy and sweep out any loose dead leave green mater/ Organic waste, fish poop later from the base that is why potting mixes matter so your choice not to have dirt in there is a wise move for a bunch of small reasons.

Pea Soup looking water. If this happens exchange half the water with tank water or town water at a pinch.

Keep in mind that's not just a 2m water feature planter you are creating a miniature living water world full of nature and wonders from the microscopic right up to Mr Green your lizard. and I hope you have time to read about things like the nitrogen cycle for starters and when you water beetles come how your plants breath in water, how fish interact how oxygen and co2 is absorbed more in cooler water just like at antartic and the artic needs the cool weather/water so a 1 degree temp shift does matter to the rate of absorption.

I not saying you need a lab coat on before you visit your pond more view your pond like Mr Green sees it. And above all enjoy/

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140626#Comment_140626

Hello JR

@EricL

thank you for your fabulous response so informative and giving me great guidance.

Glad you mentioned the Osmocote. I’ve used the aquatic control release fertiliser tablets. I’ve found that almost immediately as my plants hit the water (with their new clay pebble medium) the tablet dissolves and can be seen at the bottom of the pond. Which makes me wonder couldn’t I just use a liquid fertiliser (not sure which) straight into the water? I’m assuming these dispersed granules are giving the water some kind of fertilisation but they’re not directly in the Plants any more.
Any thoughts on this?

the other question I had which I don’t think we’ve covered is the addition of the little Solar water fountain which creates a small low rippling kind of affect. Not spraying over the plants

Is moving water beneficial? somehow I thought it was

thank you JR your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

ps I’ll send a pic soon

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142282#Comment_142282

Hi @gillymrd,

Let me tag @Jewelleryrescue so they are alerted to your reply.

The Osmocote 250g Scotts Water Gardens And Aquatic Plants Controlled Release Fertiliser will gradually dissolve over time, dispersing fertiliser as needed. They are specifically designed for ponds and I wouldn't advise pouring any old liquid fertiliser into the pond as you could risk over-fertilisation and killing the plants.

Moving water, especially water that is agitated enough to introduce oxygen into the pond, is beneficial, even if it’s just a gentle ripple from a solar fountain. It helps oxygenate the water, which is useful for any aquatic life or beneficial bacteria present. Movement also disrupts algae growth, making it harder for it to take hold compared to stagnant water. Another advantage is mosquito prevention, as mosquitoes prefer still water for laying eggs, and even a slight ripple can make the surface less hospitable.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143455#Comment_143455

Thanks very much I thought I was replying to @Jewelleryrescue and tagging @EricL

Getting used to the app I’ll tag all concerned in future hope to hear from @Jewelleryrescue too

cheers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142282#Comment_142282

@Jewelleryrescue @EricL @MitchellMc

Hey all

After our 35+ days I’m wondering it that has turned my water greenish.

is it a worry at this stage. The plants have only been in a week. ??

appreciate any advice

cheers

Gillian

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143459#Comment_143459

Hi @gillymrd,

You can use AQUAPRO 500ml Bionatural 3 In 1 Solution to combat the green water. Note that with fish, it's essential that there is aeration and or circulation present during and after the treatment.

Mitchell