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How to stop Buffalo growing in Kikuyu Lawn?

Hi team,

I hope you are all doing well!

I have just moved into our new home and I am wanting to get the front lawn up to standard as it looks like it has been left to go a bit crazy and unruly.

I have attached a few images that show what I am referring to, more specifically around what seems to be Buffalo growing in a primarily Kikuyu lawn (if you could confirm I am correct on the lawn species that would be great!), as well as what seems to be a heavy thatch layer? And lastly in a general sense, the grass seems a bit brown and dry.

Just trying to figure out how I address the buffalo patches, the broad-leaf weeds (clover etc) and get this lawn back with a uniform and neat profile. I am based in south-east Queensland if that helps. Any tips or tricks for a newbie would be much appreciated, thanks in advance for the help

Pictures below:

Looks like there is a fair bit of thatch under grass?Buffalo growing in Kikuyu?

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Comments

EricL

Hello @Templeton

Welcome to the Bunnings workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your lawn.

It sounds like your lawn consists of a mix of Kikuyu and Buffalo grass, both of which are common in southeast Queensland. Kikuyu is a fast-growing, fine-textured grass, while Buffalo has broader, coarser blades and tends to form patches in a Kikuyu lawn.

If you're noticing patches of Buffalo in your Kikuyu lawn and would prefer a uniform Kikuyu lawn, you can remove the Buffalo by either manually digging it out or using a grass-specific herbicide that targets Buffalo but leaves Kikuyu unaffected. After removing the Buffalo, overseed or plant Kikuyu runners to fill in the bare spots.

There is a spray that you might be able to use, please allow us to double check with our supplier and we'll get back to you.

The heavy thatch layer you mentioned is likely a buildup of dead grass and roots, which is common in Kikuyu and Buffalo lawns. A thick thatch can prevent water, nutrients, and oxygen from reaching the soil, so you’ll want to break it up with a dethatching rake or a lawn scarifier. Following dethatching, aerating the lawn will help improve water penetration and reduce compaction. For broadleaf weeds like clover, a selective herbicide that targets broadleaf plants without harming your grass is the best solution. Spot-treating the weeds rather than applying the herbicide all over will reduce unnecessary chemical use.

Finally, if the grass looks brown and dry, ensure it’s getting enough water. Kikuyu and Buffalo are drought-tolerant but still benefit from regular, deep watering during dry periods. Water early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid evaporation. Applying a nitrogen-rich fertilizer every 6–8 weeks during the growing season will also help the grass thrive. Mow the lawn regularly, keeping Kikuyu at around 25-30mm and Buffalo at 40-50mm. With consistent care, your lawn should start to regain its uniform and healthy look over time.

Here are some handy guides:

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Templeton

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/42893#Comment_42893

Hi EricL,

thank you very much for the informative response! Much appreciated.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/83567#Comment_83567

Hello @Templeton

Our chlorophyll connoisseur, Noelle, has come back to me and suggested that the Scotts Lawn Builder Weed, Feed & Green Up Refillable Bottle would likely have the desired effect of severely damaging, if not killing, the buffalo grass. Please note that this is an off-label recommendation, so there are no guarantees. If the buffalo grass persists, a second application may be necessary in 6 to 8 weeks. Total eradication of the stubborn buffalo lawn might need to be done manually.

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

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