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How to fill gap above the window?

Hi!

There is an odd gap above one of the kitchen windows. I was thinking of filling it with a plank of wood or something and then paint over it to match the other sides and make the boarder around the window look more complete. I was also thinking it would be cool to maybe have some small plants hanging from it (if it is strong enough).

There is a weird metal bit that I would have to work around, but other than that I am assuming that I would use screws and/or liquid nails? The approximate dimension are Length = 1440mm; Height = 50mm; Depth = 79-90mm (varies)

Does anyone have any recommendations how to go about doing this? What would be the best and safest way to do it? Noting that I am a beginner with only basic tools (but willing to get and learn how to use more) and I don't have much in the way of power tools or experience using them - again, willing to learn.

Thank you

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MitchellMc

Hi @k712,

You are definitely on the right track. Filling the gap above the window with a piece of timber is a good approach. You can glue it in place using Liquid Nails, and for extra security, drive some screws through the front timber directly into it. Make sure to sink the screws slightly below the surface, then fill over them with wood filler and paint to disguise them completely.

The main challenge will be finding a piece of timber that fits the varying depth of your gap. Standard 90 by 35 mm timber will work for the deeper sections, but any areas less than 90 mm may need sanding down to fit. If the depth varies significantly, you could use narrower timber, such as 70 mm, and fill the remaining space with gap filler to create a smooth, seamless finish.

Once installed and painted, the window border will look complete, and you can even hang small plants from it.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

k712

Hi @MitchellMc!

Thank you so much for creating that diagram. It is really helpful!

With using screws to secure the timber, what kind / size would you recommend? They would have to go through the cornice before it can secure the timber. Would I be able to drill them directly through both? Or would I need to drill pilot holes? I do already have a drill that I can use for this. Alternatively, would nails be a good option? What is stronger?

For the timber itself, I was looking on the Bunnings website and I think the 90mm x 45mm planks would work better since the height is 50mm and I would then just need some hobby wood or something to make up the remaining 5mm (either that or just cover it with filler?). If I purchase a 90mm x 45mm plank, can I get it cut to size? The lengths available are way too long (the shortest shown on the website is 2.4m) and I don't think I would be able to easily transport them back home otherwise. Would I want to opt for the blue treated timber as opposed the non treated kind? Also, I already have spackle - can that be used as a substitute for wood filler?

For hanging the plants, I was thinking of screwing hooks into the timber and then hanging macramé plant holders from them (see example images below). Do you have any suggestions for what type of hooks to use? Would the I need to drill pilot holes first before inserting the hooks?

Sorry to inundate you with questions.

Thanks again for your help 🙂

Hanging plants example 1 of 2 (hooks in ceiling)

Hanging plants example 2 of 2 (held up by hooks)

JacobZ

Hi @k712,

Keep in mind that in this orientation, any weight hung from the timber is going to be applied to the screws that are driven through the cornice. As these screws are horizontal, the force is amplified down the length of the screw, and if a lot of weight is applied to them, they can snap. If there were timber above the gap that you could screw into as well, this would be ideal because the load would be supported vertically along the screw, so there wouldn't be an amplifying effect.

Considering this is around the perimeter of the ceiling, there's a good chance there is some framing above the recess. If you grabbed a nail and tapped it into the ceiling, you should be able to tell if there is timber above it. If there is, I would consider adding screws vertically as well.

As you would be supporting the weight of the pots with the timber, I would suggest using screws with some decent length to them. These Zenith 10 - 8 x 75mm Galvanised Countersunk Rib Head Timber Screws should do the trick. I would suggest having one every 300-450mm along the full length of the timber.

You'll want to predrill pilot holes through the cornice and into the timber to reduce the risk of splitting. I'd suggest using this Sutton Tools 3.0mm Long Series Jobber Drill Bit to drill your pilot holes.

Nails are not a good option because they will bend if any weight is applied to the timber.

For the 5mm variance, you can use some Liquid Nails to stick these 5mm Yellow Shims to the ceiling, before putting the timber in place. You would then apply some liquid nails to the underside of the shims, push the timber into place and screw through the cornice into the timber. This way, the timber will end flush with the surface. You can then apply a skim coat of filler over the top, give it a quick sand and then paint it. This would give the timber a smooth, plasterboard-like finish as opposed to a raw timber look. Spackle would be fine for this.

You can get the timber cut to length for transport, but we do not offer precision cuts. You would have to get it cut to the nearest 100mm for transport, then trim it to length at home. You can cut the timber to length using a Craftright Mitre Box And Saw Set to ensure you get a nice square cut.

H2 (blue timber) is treated for termites and borers and would be a better option long term. Untreated pine would also be fine as long as you are aware that it would not be protected against termites and borers.

For hanging your baskets, I'd suggest using Everhang 30mm Zinc Plated Screw Eyes. They will need a pilot hole before installing.

There's a fair bit of info there, so please let me know if you need any clarification.

Jacob

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