So I have recently installed a study desk in my bedroom here https://www.workshop.com.au/t5/Living-and-Bedroom/What-wood-to-use-for-a-study-desk-staining/m-p/454... using the Acacia Laminated Panels .
I now want to mount some floating shelves above the desk using these brackets https://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-100-x-76-x-20mm-adjustable-floating-brackets_p3961804. I wanted to use the exact same panel as the desk. Just wanted to know if it's possible to get them cut to size? So this is the one I was after https://www.bunnings.com.au/2200-x-600-x-26mm-acacia-solid-oiled-hardwood-project-panel_p8330032
I would like it to be 0.9m in length and 0.45m in width. If I get these cut, would the wood show?
Would appreciate any advice here.
Unfortunately, that type of panel is unable to be cut in-store with our cutting service. If you were interested I can certainly guide you through how to cut the timber down to size yourself. Obviously it would be preferable to cut it with a circular saw, but you could potentially do it with a handsaw with some sanding afterwards.
The exposed cut edges will look different to the finish the Acacia board currently has. You would need to apply an oil to the cut surfaces to get them to match the rest of the board.
Thanks for the quick responses @MitchellMc
I have recently bought a circular saw but I haven't practiced using it enough to feel confident in cutting. I do have a stanley hand saw that I got along with my mitre box.
Would appreciate any tips you have here on how to cut it smooth and squire
I would advise doing a few practise cuts first, but other than that, this might be a great opportunity to use the circular saw. Whether it is the hand saw or circular saw I would suggest laying masking tape down where you are cutting. You can then mark your line to follow on top of it. This will assist in stopping tear-outs of the timber and give you a cleaner cut. You might also like to clamp a length of timber as a straight edge along the desired cut line so you have something to follow against while you cut.
If you bought the Stanley saw and mitre box in a kit, it might have been a tenon saw. If it is then the spline on the back of the blade will make it difficult to cut a panel and a handsaw would be better for this job
Here's a great step-by-step D.I.Y tutorial on How to cut laminate benchtops. Although it is for laminate benchtops all the same principals apply to your acacia panels.
Please let me know if you need further assistance or have other questions.
Thanks for the tips there @MitchellMc .
I will definitely practice some cuts with the circular saw and then go ahead with using it for the panel.
The issue I am having now is getting the panel home haha! It is a 2.2m panel and won't fit in my Holden Commodore. And there doesn't seem to be a shorter panel with a similar thickness (at least 24mm as specified by the brackets).
I've decided to mount some floating shelves above the previously installed desk. Just had a few questions I wanted to ask:
I've made this little edit below showing how I would like the shelves layed out. The blue marks are where the studs are.
I will be attaching 2 smaller shelves both 40cm long (1/3 of the desk below it) and 1 big shelf which is the same length as the desk of 120cm. I will be using using the carinya floating brackets here > https://www.carinya.com.au/floating-shelf-bracket-zinc
I understand that 1 anchor point per bracket should be screwed into a stud. The problem I am running into is that, when I align my shelf to where I want it to be, which is the end of the shelf should finish at the end of the desk, in order to hit the stud, the bracket ends up being right in the middle of the shelf, so where will the other bracket go? One bracket will be way longer away from one end of the shelf compared to the other bracket, will this matter? I've always seen 2 brackets having the same spacing apart from the ends of the shelf.
Another problem I think I will run into, is that I might only be able to hit 1 stud per shelf, and the rest of the 2 holes on the other bracket I'll have to use anchors. Will this be okay strength wise? I won't be placing any more than 4KG on each shelf.
Finally, do you think I will have to modify the lengths of my shelves in order to hit 2 studs and have even spacing between each bracket and the ends of the shelf?
Sorry if this was too confusing, will clarify if need be, thank you!
The bracket alignment issue (using scrap wood to demo) ^^
Were you still going to have the shelves come out 450mm? I'm just looking at your placements there and it appears you would have a shelf coming out at eye height 450mm on a 600mm desk. 450mm is a fairly deep shelf to have in that position. The reason I am asking is if you had 300mm shelves and only intend to put 4kg on them then the white Ramset screw-in plasterboard anchors would be more than sufficient. That would do away with needing a stud altogether.
My only concern with running with the 450mm shelf and white screw-in anchors is if you put weight towards the front of the shelf it potentially could pull the anchors out. However, that is 4 anchors which can each hold 10kgs and it should still be fine.
Ideally, you would like the shelf fully supported with evenly placed mounting brackets, unfortunately, this can't always be possible. Even if you have one bracket in the middle and one right to the side they will still serve the purpose of holding the shelf. The only real option other than having two off-centre brackets is to install a third or just anchor into the gyprock with both brackets.
The shelves will be about 280mm out from the wall. I guess I will try to hit at least one stud, if not then just use anchors for the whole shelf otherwise I won't be able to lay it out how I want.
I believe it would be more than adequate to fix both brackets with the wall anchors. Either way, I think 280mm deep shelves are not going to impose too much strain on the fixings, I was just concerned you might be intending to have 450mm shelves.
Please let us know how you go.