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How to build a wall mount table?

Hello,

I'm planning on making a wall mounted dining table. I will buy a slab ~ 160cm x 60cm x 4cm. I want to mount it on the wall using a foldable wall mount bracket. Was wondering what type of bracket would I need and if there's actually a bracket that will hold the weight of a slab plus whatever I put on the table?

I added a photo or a similar thing I want to make.

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JacobZ

Hi @Kathy88,

You could use these Carinya 300 x 145mm White Folding Spring Loaded Bracket, which were load tested using two brackets at 415mm spacings, and deemed strong enough to support 50kg.

At 1600mm long, you should be able to use at least 4 across the span of the table.

Do you know what your wall is made of?

If it is a timber stud-framed wall, then you will have to locate the studs using a studfinder and screw the brackets to them with long timber screws such as these 75mm Timber Screws. Use every stud that is available.

If your wall is masonry, then you will have to use similarly long masonry screws such as these Galvanised Masonry Anchor Screws.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Kathy88

Thank you for your quick reply.

We actually want to mount it on our kitchen cabinet. I have added the photo. Not completely sure but I think it's timber.

We want to get rid of our huge table and add it it's spot so the kiddos have more room to run and so they stop hitting their heads on the edge of the table.

Do you think it will hold?

JacobZ

Hi @Kathy88,

If there is timber framing behind the VJ board, then it would be fine, but if there is only MDF or chipboard, which I suspect is the case, then you would struggle. The materials used in cabinets are not the strongest structurally. You would likely find that over time, with the weight of the table, anything sat on the table and having elbows resting on the outside edge, the screws will begin to pull out.

You could add some 70 x 35mm Framing inside the back of the cabinets, and then screw the brackets to that?

Or you could build a small stud frame on the outside of the cabinet, reclad it with VJ board and then screw through it into the frame.

Unfortunately, without some reinforcement, you wouldn't be able to install your folding table here.

Let me know what you think, and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Kathy88

Thank you for your advice and recommendations. I decided to make the table you see in the pic into a drop leaf table instead of modifying the cabinets.

I have a Ryobi one + 165mm circular saw and a sander. Do I need any other tools? What type of sand paper and saw blade would I need for a clean finish? Also what do I need to make it waterproof and the same colour of what it already it?

The table top is 3cm thick, 240cm long and 110cm wide. The plan is to cut the length to 130 cm and the width to 60cm. So 50cm will drop down. I also will cut the legs in a half, half will stay on the 60cm bit and the other half will open when drop down is set up.

With the other 110, I will cut in half. One cut will be a bench top and the other will be cut in half for legs.

This is my first project like this so want to first ask if it's doable?

If yes, I will need some kind of hardware that can hold the weight of the table top and will be hidden when table top is set up. Any recommendations?

Anything else I'm missing or any suggestions?

EricL

Hello @Kathy88

I don't think the remaining uncut piece will be able to hold the weight of the folding section due to its weight. I believe that the table will need to be anchored somehow to the floor. If the cut piece were to be made smaller say 300mm it's possible that the remaining standing piece will be able to hold the weight of the cut piece.

On the condition that the cut piece stays in one piece, it can be attached to the standing piece using large 100mm door hinges. To keep it upright, I recommend using Pinnacle 300mm Galvanised Drop Bolt's or something similar to keep the cut piece up. The cut legs can then be folded out to provide extra support.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @AlanM52 for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Kathy88

Thank you. I don't really need to table to be that wide. Would it work if I do 50 and 30? Or for it to hold the weight, it should be 60 and 30?

With the numbers changed like this, not sure what the leg size should be so it doesn't look weird folded. What are your thoughts?

What type of hing would I need to use for the table top drop and folding legs?

MitchellMc

Hi @Kathy88,

Were you thinking of something like the rendering images I've created below?

Typically, piano hinges would be used for the folding legs and top.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Good Afternoon @Kathy88

Going through all the iterations that have been mentioned, would you be able to draw up a rough plan of what you want? It will also help in showing you how the table/bench can work.

You mention you have children that potentally knock their heads on the edge of the existing table. It makes me think that safty wise it might be wiser to have the tables fixed to the shortened bench, maybe on the corners so you cant run/walk into the edge so easily. The timber you have described is fairly heavy and I wouldnt want that falling down accidently.

I was thinking of a foldable vertical leg, something with a couple of hinges that can be opened up to form a right angle, say in the middle of the bench to carry the weight. You could even have strips of timber on the underside of the bench to lock the right angle pieces in place. I know I have sat/leaned on benches as have friends so something that can carry weight and also extra weight is where my thoughts are going.

Even a rough sketch of where you are up to with what you have in mind will help us along.

Dave

Kathy88

Yes, this is similar to what I had in mind but the legs fold in too. Similar to this: https://pin.it/64v6rFDOi link is from Pintress. Because it's live edge, I want it fold down like what you have, not like to Pintress link. But if it won't hold if I have it cut in half then it might look weird and your design might be logical.

EricL

Hello @Kathy88

Thank you for posting that link. I can now see what you are trying to emulate. Folding the table over the uncut piece is technically much more practical as the weight of the cut piece sits on top of the table and does not unbalance the table. I know you prefer the fold down piece but from a safety aspect it would be better to have it balanced.

As the top folds over there will be no need to use a locking mechanism as the legs fold out to catch the table folding out. The hinge that they used is called a 3D Adjustable Universal Concealed Hinge 45225. The number of hinges to use depends on the weight of the benchtop it will be holding. Please note that the hinges have a thickness limitation of 38mm minimum to a maximum of 42mm. Please note that the hinges will need to be ordered at the special orders desk.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Kathy88

I want to make something similar to what Mitchell created in the comment above. Would I need that extra leg even if the length is cut to 130 or 150? I want to keep the style of the table and have the legs a bit inward.

I'm not sure what you mean about "shortened bench" to make it safer. Can you explain a bit more?

I will be placing it under the cabinet (same as first pic comment). Thought if I make it 50 or 60cm, 10 will go under the cabinet and with the length being less, he won't bang his head on the corner.

EricL

Hi @Kathy88

My apologies for the confusion, I was referring to the width of the table. Having had a second look at the table size you were referring to, cutting it in half might work, but I would still advise anchoring the footing to the floor. I've placed a quick sketch of your table below with some basic measurements. You can imagine the weight of the folded section is exerting on the entire structure. On closer inspection I don't think it would be practical to make the cut section smaller.

However, I would still recommend anchoring the table to the floor to prevent it from toppling over just in case the children run into it. I also suggest using Perma Child Safety Clear Adhesive Corner Protectors - 20 Pack.

Eric

Kathy88

Sorry for the late reply, got a bit busy.

I sized everything again. The original table top is 240cm long, 90 to 100cm wide and 3.5cm thick. The leg is 70cm wide. Not sure what the wood is (maybe Acacia).

I want the table itself to be 160cm long, 60cm wide and the drop to be 30 to 40cm wide (mostly 30, some bits of the live edge are 40).

In that case, would I be able to get away with anchoring to the ground and using only something like the galvanised drop bolt you suggested before?

Because the legs are 70, I can cut them to 60 to support the whole table top and use the anchor to hold the 30 to 40cm drop up . Would this work or would you still suggest the cut the legs into 50 and 20 and use the 20 to support the top?

EricL

Hello @Kathy88

Thank you for sharing those measurements. I believe the balance is just right as the folded section is not so heavy and you still have a bit of leg to support the folded section. The drop bolt was actually meant for the table to prevent the folded section from folding in. To anchor the table, I suggest using heavy duty angle brackets to hold the table in place. However, once, you've cut the table, I suggest doing a test to see if the table is still stable even if 1/3 has been cut down and is hanging off its edge.

If the table is easy to topple over, then I suggest installing angle brackets to hold the table in place.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

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