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How to finish off removed door frame?

Hi Team

We have removed the frames from two bedroom BIRs and are looking to install slimline sliding doors.

Currently the space is exposed uneven bricks. Looking for direction on how to finish this off. I wanted to have it look like any other wall and then screw the new sliding frame into it. Just stuck on if it can just be plastered up or do the bricks need to be cut down to be more even along the walls?

A suggestion from a contractor was to install a new wood frame in its place but I don’t want to just replace the metal door frame with a wood one, so looking for other options.

All advice greatly appreciated.

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JacobZ

Hi @ScrambledEgg,

Thank you for your question and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

I have some concerns that should be addressed before we look at finishing off the door opening.

In brick construction, to create a door opening, a lintel, such as this Galintel 85 x 7mm x 1100mm Traditional Flat Bar is used to support the brick above the opening.

In your case, the metal door frame was acting as the support for the brick above the opening.

Now that the metal door frame has been removed, the brick above the opening is not supported from beneath. It is currently holding itself in place, but it will not do this forever. As gravity will always be acting on these bricks, eventually they will begin to fall, which will create big problems later down the line.

Before we come up with a plan to finish off the frame, we must support the brick above the door opening.

The easiest way to fix this is to retrofit a lintel This can be done by cutting slots to insert the lintel at the top of the opening. It's a different circumstance, but you might like to check out How To Install a Lintel for a bit of guidance.

I'd suggest this is something you should contact a professional for. They will have the tools and knowledge to ensure it is installed correctly so that the brick above the opening is adequately supported.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Jacob

Dave-1

Afternoon @ScrambledEgg

I was about to suggest covering with plaster as I did my alcove at home until I read what @JacobZ was saying and I realised that you are missing a lintel on the brick work. I would install a lintel across the width to support and then plaster the sides. I dont have a project up yet but will see if I can find the photos of the reno of the alcove/room.

01 12-08-2013.jpg

The old alcove edging/trip surrounding the alcove.

02 12-08-2013.jpg

Taking the trim off and exposing what was underneath

03 12-08-2013.jpg

Putting new square edges to the plaster and using angled aluminium edging for form

04 12-08-2013.jpg

Removing the post on the left once I worked out that it wasnt supporting anything bar the trimwork.

05 12-08-2013.jpg

All squared up and smoothed through The tiles had to stay as they continue through into the bathroom (dodgy bro inc from before me)

You could do the same once you install the lintel to support those bricks.

Dave

ScrambledEgg

Thanks @JacobZ
I expected one to be there as the original drawings stated there was but when I couldn’t see one I thought I just didn’t know what I was looking for. Thanks for those links, I will get someone out to install the lintel first before proceeding.

ScrambledEgg

Thank you for sharing @Dave-1. That looks great, exactly what I had in my mind when I started the removal.

JacobZ

Hi @ScrambledEgg,

When you get someone out to install the lintel, I'd suggest you get them to cut back the bricks that are protruding on the sides. It'll make finishing the opening a whole lot easier for you. It will still be a bit involved, but giving a nice flat surface to start with will certainly help.

You will need to use plasterboard over the bricks to achieve a square set opening like in @Dave-1's example. This is mainly because Siniat 30 x 2400mm 90° External Angle Plaster Trims are installed with staples, which won't work directly into the brick.

Luckily, plasterboard can be installed over the brick using Ramset Black Countersunk Masonry Screws.

In the first image and the left side of the second image, if the bricks are cut flush with the existing plasterboard, a strip of new plasterboard can be installed over the top and the corners finished with an external trim.

It looks like the right side of the second image has a slight void where a strip of plasterboard can be installed to create a flush finish. You would then need to tape and plaster the joins to hide any of the gaps.

The head of the openings might be a bit tricky. As you'll have a lintel installed, you will need to once again install plaster to cover the sides of the bricks and then over the lintel. This would require you to drill through the lintel to fix the plasterboard and subsequent door track in place.

You might like to check out these helpful resources for some guidance:

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Dave-1

Evening @ScrambledEgg and @JacobZ

I have also used just liquid nails to attach plaster to brickwork when I redid my garage area. Its still holding nicely from 3 years ish ago.

Dave

reneeeeevw

Hi Jacob,

Tacking on to this discussion as we have done a similar thing with our toilet door frame (removed steel frame as we wish to square set and install an internal sliding door). We’ve just installed a lintel, but unsure what product to apply to square up the uneven brick on each side first, before attaching the plasterboard and trims. Can you link to a specific Bunnings product to use?

MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @reneeeeevw. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about finishing brickwork with plasterboard.

As @JacobZ mentioned above, it would be best to have a tradesperson cut the bricks back so they are flush. Apart from that, the only other option I can think of is to try using mortar to pack the sunken bricks out and create an even surface.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

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