All right, here we go. Planning another project 😉 I am getting the asbestos containing internal wall and ceiling lining removed from two bedrooms and so I need to reline with Gyprock. Haven’t never done this I have few newbie questions: * I’ve seen few install videos and they always put an offcut under a sheet to form a gap between floor and sheet. How is this gap sealed? Or you are supposed to leave it and cover it with skirting boards? * How do I work around existing window casings/sills and door frames? * We have got exposed beams as seen in the attached photo. How does one plaster around those? * Insulation - can I put battens into the wall cavity from the inside even though there is no vapour barrier between behind the cladding? Any advise is much appreciated! Thanks, Tom

Hi @tom138

I believe the gap at the bottom is for movement, should the wall frame or floor move it will not crack the plasterboard. The gap will then be covered with your skirting board. In regard to working around doors and windows you'll need to cut panels to fit, the joins will be hidden once you start plastering.

In regards to plastering the ceiling my only tip is to measure the space between the beams so that you can maximize the use of the plasterboard. As to the installation of a batten frame into the cavity wall, if the frame was assembled as a single unit to be made to stand up then it would be possible for you to put a vapour barrier behind the frame.

Here are some handy step-by-step guides:

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Hi @EricL ,

Thanks for your reply!

I am assuming there will always be a bit of a gap around doors and windows, what’s the best way to seal it? Caulk?

How about around the exposed beams? Do I need to put a timber moulding like it is now or can it be square set without it?

With regards to the “battens” - this was an autocorrect 🙂 What I mean to ask was whether I can install wall and ceiling insulation batts (like Earthwool) into the cavity before I install plasterboard even if there is no vapour barrier/membrane under the existing cladding?

Thanks for your help,

Tom

Hi @tom138

Your absolutely right that gaps near the door and window frames will be unavoidable. However, your goal is to minimize those gaps and make sure that your cuts are as straight as possible. This means that you won't have to use a large amount of gap filler around those areas. I suggest having a look at Selleys 475g No More Gaps Interior Multipurpose Gap Filler to fill in those gaps.

As to the exposed beams, I'm afraid you'll still need to use timber moulding as liquid gap fillers will droop when applied on a horizontal surface.

If there is already a timber batten frame existing, then putting in insultation would be an effective way to increase your walls thermal properties.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Thanks @EricL. Although this - “your cuts are as straight as possible” - worries me a bit 😀

Would you recommend the Gyprock Easy Flow All Purpose Compound or the Less Mess Multi Purpose Compound?

Is it better to screw or nail plasterboard?

Also, am I understanding it correctly that I am limited by my frame thickness when choosing what R value insulation to use so I might not be able to go for better than R2.0 if my frame is only 75mm (not sure what is it yet, I guess I will only find out when the existing lining is removed.

Thanks again,

Tom

Hi @tom138

I've always used the Multipurpose compound, it's ready to go and easy to manage. You can either use screws or nails, both will do the job. I suppose it all depends on which one you find easier working with. I prefer screws myself as I often hit the nails too hard and damage the plasterboard.

You're correct regarding the insulation thickness. Best to wait and find out how thick your frames are before making any purchase.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Afternoon @tom138

I like your next project! Can be hard work but will look good at the end!

When I was doing the plastering in my garage I spaced the bottom piece of plaster off with a flat sheet of plaster (I thought because of moisture before but reading Erics reason makes more sense) I am am glad I doid as water did enter the garage floor and if the plaster wa sto the floor it would have wicked up the sheet in no time at all!

I figured the gap would be covered by the skirting boards as well. It really came up nice. I plastered up to the edge of the windows and door frames as a straight edge. The only issue i had wa snot using enough mud to secure the paper join between the sheets lol Almost got it right but was more "scared" to put more down as I would have to sand it off. Here is part one of the project Garage lining for stud walls stage 1 if you wantto take a wander through it. I have done small sections of plastering before but never a whole room.

I used cup headnails and goop for attaching to the studs. I figured the cup heads would allow the plaster to adheare to them better. I also stuck plaster direct on the brickwork with the goop. Its still there and no issues.

Looking forward to watching your project unfold 🙂

Dave

Hey @EricL,

my thinking on screws vs nails exactly.

Im getting my shopping list ready and I’m trying to figure out how to do cornices. I am not a big fan of fancy cornices and would love to have a square set ceiling but based on what I’m reading might be too difficult to do for a novice. So I’m looking for something minimal. Especially considering I’ll have to put moulding around the exposed beams. Do you have any recommendations?

I was looking at these https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-19-x-19mm-2-7m-moulding-white-pine-fj-primed-tri-quad_p8480057 or even these https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-30-x-18mm-2-7m-primed-finger-jointed-pine-dar_p8260130?store=7363&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3e6WjMSBgwMVrWwPAh0M3QNXEAQYAiABEgKLBPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Can these be used instead of classic plaster cornices? I can see @Dave-1 also used timber mouldings on his project. Thanks for the inspiration @Dave-1. You did a brilliant job. I’m hoping mine will be much more straightforward!

Thanks,

Tom

MitchellMc

Hi @tom138,

Sure, if you're going for a minimalistic look, you can use either of those profiles instead of cornices. You'll just need to ensure the roof and wall sheets meet close enough in the corners for those smaller profiles to cover.

Mitchell

Morning @tom138

🙂Thank you.

I would class myself as a novice for sure and even tho the corners were hard to figure out I wouldnt say "too hard" and probarly be mostly mistakes I made while making my own cornice up 🙂

The only thing that comes to mind over "fancy cornice" and a "square set cornice" is the ability to sorce the product if you ever need to repair it.

If you see a type of cornice you like or keep coming back to, buy a length and see how well you make the joins. Its one thing I did. Just remember that most rooms are not perfectly square 🙂 Nothing to loose and imagine how nice an indervidual cornice could be!

Dave

That’s great, I’ll go check other profiles out in store later this week. I’m sure I’ll find something. Is there supposed to be a gap between ceiling and wall sheets or can it be flush?

Getting ready to order plasterboard and trying to figure out what sizes. I understand that bigger sheets are better to minimise number of joins one has to patch but due to access issues to both of the rooms I won’t be able to get in bigger than 2.4. Maybe 2.7 but probably 2.4 to be in the safe size. Would you be able to recommend the correct address size and number of sheets I need to order? I’ve attached rooms measurements. Thanks!!!’

MitchellMc

Hi @tom138,

Typically, plaster sheets are laid horizontally. For the office, you'll need two Gyprock CSR 2400 x 1200 x 10mm 2.88sqm Plasterboard RE per wall and two Gyprock CSR 2400 x 1200 x 13mm 2.88sqm Plasterboard RE for the ceiling and then an extra sheet of the 10 and 13mm to fill in the additional gaps. For the bedroom, you'll need the same, but a bit more extra to fill gaps as the room is larger. So, as a rough estimate, I'd suggest 18 of the 10mm sheets and around six of the 13mm sheets. That should get you pretty close to the mark.

Mitchell

Thanks @MitchellMc .

Well this project has suddenly become quite real:

It looks quite daunting when you see it like this 😉 anyways no way back now, the only thing to do is to try to make the house liveable again.

The good news is that the studs are 90mm so I’ll be able to use Earthwool R2.7 batts as planned but the roof cavity is only about 75mm. That won’t fit even the thinnest of roof batts and the only thing I could find that would fit would be R2.0 Earthwool wall batts. Are there any other options? Is that even a good idea? Is there meant to be a gap between the roof and the ceiling?

edit: looking at options and perhaps Foilboard 25mm provides better thermal properties than R2.0 wall batts?

Thankful for any advise, as always!

Evening @tom138

🙂 Oh yeah! Nervous but excited. Cant help out on knowledge of insulation but cant wait to see your plaster go up!

Dave

Jason

Hi @tom138,

Apologies for the slow reply. Mitch is currently taking a well-earned break. Let me tag @EricL to assist you as soon as possible.

Jason

Hello @tom138

My apologies for the late reply. I've called up Earthwool's technical department and the good news is that you can use Earthwool R2.0 75 x 580 x 1160mm 13.46m² HD Insulation Wall Batt for ceiling insulation purposes. In a nutshell the wall batts are the all-rounder product for Earthwool, but the ceiling batts can't be used for wall applications.

The majority of roof frames are either gabled or skillion in configuration so in essence there would be a gap between the batts and the roof. But since you only have a space of 75mm then it will have to be occupied by the insulation.

In my opinion the batts provide better coverage of the ceiling cavity and provide acoustic insulation as well which your neighbours will appreciate. It's easier to handle and install, it can also be easily cut with a Craftright 18mm Snap Off Knife.

Please remember to wear personal protections such as appropriate clothing, gloves, goggles and an N95 rated mask or higher. Please make sure to follow all the safety guidelines printed at the back of the packaging.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the insulation installed.

Eric

Hi @EricL,

Thanks for getting back to me. I am a bit worried about condensation issues if I don’t leave any gap. Another solution suggested to me was to use a 50mm rigid insulation product normally used as underfloor insulation (Kingspan K3). I will have to do a bit more research before committing to a solution.

I will also have to have a carpenter assess the condition of the framing as it is rotten in few places (especially below a window that had a leak). In the meantime I am thinking how to fix these gaps in the floor:

They are where the floor meets the wall frame and they are quite big - 1-2cm in some places. You can actually see into the garage below! Do you have any suggestion how to seal these gaps?

Thanks,

Tom

Afternoon @tom138

The gap will be sealed by the plaster width and then the skirting boards width 😲 Freaky I know! When I removed my skirting boards in preperation of having the floorboards sanded I couldnt believe how much of a breeze came through. Once I replaced the skirting boards all was fine, no breeze and no access from below for any four legged friends 🙂 I could actually see the light I had left on downstairs when the boards were removed!

Dave

Hi @tom138

The store does have Kingspan insulation, but I suspect that the K3 will need to be specially ordered. Allow me to check its availability and get back to you.

In regards to the gap I would go with @Dave-1's recommendation. But if it is really bothering you, I suggest using Sika 850ml Sika Boom Expanding Foam. It will fill up any gap and it can be trimmed down with snap-off knife.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Thanks @Dave-1 and @EricL.

The gap is actually bothering me so I will have a look at the product you recommended @EricL. It seems exactly what I was looking for 😉

Morning @tom138

🙂 I know that "bothering feeling" and its usually better to have it gone. Cant wait to see the project when its done 🙂

Dave

Hello @tom138

My apologies for the late reply. The K3 can be ordered at the trade desk. Please note that it comes in 12 pack quantities, so if you decide to use this, it's best to double check the quantity that you'll need for your project. The sheets come in standard size 2400 x 1200 and its always advisable to inquire about the turnaround time so that you'll have a good idea when it will be delivered.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

MrCannotWeld

Hi Eric

The video you linked above How To Plasterboard A Ceiling is great, but could I please ask - how do you 'finish' the roof? As in, once the plasterboard is up do you use topping compound to fill the gap between the sheets and to hide the screw heads?

Thanks