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How to repair rotten sliding door frame?

Hi everyone,

I've just noticed that part of the wooden sliding door in my bedroom has become rotten, and the rail has shifted slightly as a result of the damage.

I’ve looked into some solutions online, and it seems that the proper way to fix it would involve cutting out the damaged section and replacing it with a new piece of wood.

However, since we’re planning to extend this part of the house and the door will eventually be removed, I’m wondering if I can simply clean it up and use hardner and wood filler as a temporary fix? Thanks a lot

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Jason

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @HAO.

Let me tag some experienced members in @Nailbag, @Dave-1 and @AlanM52 to see if they can kick off this discussion and share how they would go about this repair.

Jason

Dave-1

Good morning @HAO

Having timber rot is a pain in the neck and figuring out how far it goes would be a good first step.

I use a flat blade screwdrive and gently push tthe blade into the timber, if it goes in then its rotted.

The pictures you have supplied tends to make me want to lift the sliding door out and take a closer look at the state the threshold is in as it looks well along the path to collapsing 😕

If you are not confident in replacing parts or the whole I would suggest a carpenter or builder/glazier to insepct and suggest a path.

That first photo from outside to inside, the bit that cobcerns me is the timber at the base of the inside window? That looks like it may have perished. It also means that water is sitting, pooling and not running away. Once timber starts rotting it will allow water to stay in amongst the timber fibres and is harder to dry out. Timber hardener can work in situations but I wouldnt bve confident in this overall path.

Maybe get a couple of quotes and also factor in yourself doing if you are confident of your skillset? For me id get a carpenter and ask if I can give a hand, and chalk it up to knowing what to do next time. (Ive done that a few times 🙂 )

Dave

AlanM52

As @Dave-1 suggested lift out the door and eyeball what's there.

I think you need to get some timber in there or maybe even wedges to support the track.

About all you can do for the window is a patch-up job, as you said wood filler or maybe expanding foam.

You can mix up your own filler with sawdust and PVA glue.

Cheers

KHGHGK

Thanks a lot Jason

KHGHGK

Hallo Dave,

Thanks so much for the detailed advice — really appreciate it. I'll grab a flathead screwdriver and test it out once I get home.

I don't think I'm confident enough to lift the whole door and put it back properly, so it’s probably best that I get a few quotes from professionals and see what they suggest.

KHGHGK

Hi Alan, thanks for the advices, really appriciated. What size of the timber or wedges would fit? is there any options from bunnings I can grab?

EricL

Hello @KHGHGK

If you are after multiple sized wedges, I suggest using the Delf Assorted Builders Wedges. They come in multiple sizes and can be glued and screwed for permanent installation. Plus, they are made of plastic so will not rot or deteriorate even when exposed to the weather.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

AlanM52

RE:What size of the timber or wedges would fit?

You need to work that out.

Assuming you are not a DIY person I suggest you buy this:

Titan 1.5 x 75mm 200 Piece Blue Window Packers (0647619)

Rather than fool around with timber.

Ask here for the best construction adhesive to glue the packers.

Pack both ends of the track so the door is square.

Oriente the packers lengthwise.

If needed use a garden spade or similar to lift the door.

Pack the middle and check how the door slides.

Remove/add packers to get it right.

Remove the centre packers and glue them in - adhesive both sides.

Do the same for the ends.

Check how the door slides.

Add more packers left and right of centre.

Use the rest of the adhesive to spot-fill between brick and track.

Good luck

Nailbag

Hi @HAO

Looking at those few photos, that rotted timber has been well established for considerable time. It extends well into the entire door frame and into the sliding door itself.

Whats the timing on the extension as I wouldn't be vesting too much time and money into trying to salvage the door at least operational. I would be more inclined to ensure that it's structurally safe and making it more weatherproof to protect the internal walls from water ingress. If you're taking months or less I would remove it, frame it up and seal it. This type of moisture can start to cause internal mould which is a more serious health risk. Apologies for sounding dramatic, but it is something I see commonly.

Nailbag

HAO

Hi Eric, thanks so much for the helpful suggestion — I really appreciate it! The project looks like beyond my capability, I might need to ask for a few quotes to see how I am going to procee.

HAO

Hi Alan, thanks so much for the helpful suggestion — I really appreciate it! I think the project might be more than I am capable of. Looking for professional quotation might be the correct way to deal with it.

HAO

Hi Nailbag, thanks so much for the suggestion, really appreciated. We’re planning the extension around next year when interest rates hopefully come down a bit more, so I’m just looking for a temporary solution for now. That said, the rotten frame doesn’t seem like it will hold up for much longer, so the best I can do is get a few quotes and see how it goes.

EricL

Hi @HAO

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your sliding door frame repaired.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @HAO

Last month I did quite a bit of work on a property a couple had just bought and they too had a very rotten timber slider in their bedroom. They wanted me to repair it. But I gave them same advice to make it watertight as they wanted to swap it out with aluminium swing doors this summer when they were a bit more financial. So, I basically removed the more affected areas where it was structurally weak on the lower door frame and applied wood hardener, then builders bog. I smooth this out with a sharpened spatula. Then I used a couple of tubes of silicone to seal all the gaps and around the sliding door itself which also made it a more secure. It's not super pretty, but the door is on the rear of the house and will serve its purpose for 5-6mths.

Another solution to consider, if you really think it's not going to last "structurally" is to remove it and replace it with a temp fill. Basically build a stud frame to hold a 2nd hand window, which are a dome a dozen off marketplace. Line the outside with bracing with painted bracing ply to protect it and then seal the edges. A few insulation batts in the frame and then 2 sheets of plasterboard. Materials-wise would be less than $250. A relatively easy job taking less than a day. If you're not up to doing this yourself, get quotes from a local handymen.

Nailbag

When you think about it, my first solution

Nailbag

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