How to add external cladding to brick?

We are ready to start renovating the outdoor area and want to start with the patio ceiling and potentially clad the brick walls.
A clean modern Hamptons look is what we after so ideally a broad cladding that we can then paint white.
We have no idea where to start with the project. Do you have to pull the old ceiling down or can you clad over the top?
Is this a DIY friendly project? We are not totally hopeless but far from expert.

Any advice is welcome….

Some pics of the area & also a couple of inspiration pics but would rather have a flat broader cladding on the bricks.

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Comments

JacobZ

Hi @Lynne69,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is wonderful to have you with us.

Recladding a home is no small feat, especially if you are going from brick to weatherboard or a fibre cement product mimicking weatherboard. Battens will need to be added to the outside of the brick to ensure the cladding is attached in compliance with the manufacturer's installation guide and the relevant construction standards.

Relining the ceiling is also not a simple task. It might be possible to install the new sheeting over the existing, but you would need to have the ceiling assessed by an engineer or licenced builder to ensure it is capable of supporting the additional weight and the ceiling frame is spaced so that the sheets can be installed in line with the manufacturer's installation guide.

Unfortunately, this is likely a project best left to the professionals as the cost involved and the potential for mistakes is very high.

The materials they will likely use are James Hardie Stria Standard Profile Cladding for the facade and Hardie Groove Lining for the ceiling.

Allow me to tag @Nailbag and @Dave-1 for their thoughts.

Jacob

Lynne69

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49847#Comment_49847

Thanks…. I thought it might be, it’s so expensive to get someone to do it. Might have to paint the bricks instead.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/87011#Comment_87011

Evening @Lynne69

I have the same hesitations as @JacobZ. The added weight on the ceiling would be something an Engineeer should verify first.

I do like your suggestion about painting the brickwork. I do think you could end up with a similar Hamptons look, but not Hamptons type deal 🙂

Instead of cladding the all the walls maybe add something to it to help define a look with the painting of the bricks.

Changing up the grassed area to Hamptons style plants and pots could help change the overall look.

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @Lynne69

The makeover you're looking for is definitely doable. But as @JacobZ highlighted its an advanced project and one that I would be leaving to a builder to complete. replacing (not fixing over top) the cement sheet eves with v-groove isn't a major project. But there are so many complications to the wall cladding, especially when it comes to windows and doors that unless done correctly will result in a finish quite disappointing to say the least. It's also going to be very expensive.

Nailbag

Lynne69

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49856#Comment_49856

Thank you, I appreciate your input,

I think I’ll paint the bricks. Do you think pulling down the ceiling and replacing it is DIY doable?
We had a quote a couple of years ago, it was 6k and he told us to pull down the old ceiling 😳

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/87024#Comment_87024

Morning @Lynne69

Mmmm a note of caution. If your house was built before 1987 it could be made with material that contains asbestos, if you are unsure it would be wise to test before attempting it. If it is you will need to engage professionals to remove it.

Apart from that it is doable and I would invist in a stand to help lift the new panels up. I would not lay the new panels over the old sheets.

Dave

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/87024#Comment_87024

Hi @Lynne69,

Pulling down the ceiling or cladding over it is possible, but whether you can do it depends on whether the available timber has enough structural support to hold up the potentially heavier cladding. That's where an assessment from an engineer comes in. Also, you'll need to follow the installation requirements for the new cladding. So, say it requires fixings into timber every 450mm, and your roof timber is spaced at 600mm; you would need to add additional structural timber into the roof to allow the required fixings. It's not as simple as removing the existing sheeting and installing new cladding.

Mitchell

Lynne69

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108959#Comment_108959

Thanks @JacobZ @Dave-1 @Nailbag @MitchellMc

for your valuable insights, I’ve learnt a lot already from you, it’s a fairly new house so no

asbestos to worry about.

I think we will leave the bricks to paint but I’m really keen to change the ceiling. I can even live with it not being perfectly done as it will be much better than what I’ve got.

What do you think is the best product to use that is DIY friendliest?

The area is a big rectangle with 1 brick supporting column that we would have to go completely around and also a window and sliding door that add a few inches to the rectangle, I’m hoping those areas will be infil strip after.

The whole area is approx 5.5 m x 4m.

We have never done anything like this before so it’s a bit daunting but a challenge we are willing to take.

The whole area is approx 5.5 m x 4m.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121801#Comment_121801

Afternoon @Lynne69

yah to the house being newer 🙂

As to products mmmm Id suggest personal preference (stroll around the bunnings panel sections 🙂 ) but mainly thin and light.

An example of what look could be good.

easycraft 3600 x 1200 x 9mm easyVJ300 Wall Lining Primed General Purpose MR MDF E0

Please NOTE this comesin at 30kg 😲

Or a smaller size same product to make it easy to calculate the overall weight.

easycraft 2400 x 1200 x 9mm easyVJ100 Wall Lining Primed General Purpose MR MDF E0

Please NOTE this comes in at 20kg

To compare

James Hardie 2400 x 750 x 4.5mm 1.80m² HardieFlex™ Eaves - 2400 x 750 x 4.5mm

No weight listed

CSR Cemintel 2400 x 450 x 4.5mm Eaves Lining - 2400 x 450 x 4.5mm

comes in at 7.3kg

The last two are purpose made for eaves. The weight of the other products really says you will need extra supports from what you have now.

As an alternative to redoing the eaves.

What about timber trim to give shape to it? Straight lines or rectangles or a bit of both. That wont increase the overall weight by a lot but could form something different.

Dave

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121801#Comment_121801

Hi @Lynne69,

It’s great to hear you’re keen to take on the challenge! Before deciding on a product, the most important thing is ensuring your ceiling has the right structure to support it. Many cladding materials require fixings into timber every 450mm, but if your existing roof structure is spaced at 600mm (which is common), you’d need to add extra timber framing before installation. This step is essential to prevent sagging or failure over time. It’s not just a matter of removing the old ceiling and installing new cladding—it’s likely that structural modifications will be needed first.

If you can check and confirm the existing timber spacing, I can help guide you on whether modifications are required and which product might be best for your situation. This might require removing a sheet of lining to inspect and measure, or you might be able to pinpoint the width between roof timbers by the sheeting fixings.

Mitchell

Lynne69

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129898#Comment_129898

Using straight lines as an alternative! You just gave me an idea @Dave-1 that would be much simpler if it works?

My main issue is the ugly joins that builders use to be cost effective.

So, could I use flat strips of wood to cover the joins? I’m guessing where the joins are visible is where the support beams would be?

Something like what this person is doing.
Then paint the whole thing.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135012#Comment_135012

Afternoon @Lynne69

Bingo! That is exactly what I wasmeaning 🙂

Pine Mouldings will show you a whole range. Pleas enote that these are internal mouldings tho being under the eaves and painted before you install would work as well. Iam showing the internal mouldins more then external ones External Mouldings as they are chunkier and not what we are after.

Cant wait to see it done! Remember that the existing joins and nails will help you show where the studs/timber is in the roof. You mayneed to adjust some spacing or rely on liquidnails and put a tall piece of timbe to wedge it in place until it dries.

Dave

Lynne69

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138387#Comment_138387

@Dave-1 it’s going to be so much easier, thank you! Regarding the strips that are already up, I assume they there just to cover the fixings? So I can just pull them off and then start with the new strips?

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140631#Comment_140631

Afternoon @Lynne69

Pretty much 🙂

I would gently use a combo of a claw hammer Craftright 8oz/ 226g Steel Claw Hammer the thinner the "claws" ends the better as you will gently lever up the strips (most likely nailed in with small bullet head nails.) And also use a large Flat blade screwdriver and gently tap the blad underneath the timber strips and then lever the strip. Think of how you open a paint can, you work away along the length and then go back and work away some more.

Try to lever in line with the strips so you dont crack the sheeting that is there.

Dave

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140631#Comment_140631

Hello @Lynne69

Just to add to @Dave-1's excellent suggestions, I also recommend looking at the Craftright 380mm Wrecking Bar to help you lift the timber strips.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves and goggles while working on your project.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Lynne69

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142279#Comment_142279

@Dave-1 Amazing help, it’s the little detailed tips that makes all the difference……you noticed that I said pull them off 😂 I should be so lucky….. I would certainly have damaged at least one of the boards with my method.
I’ll be sure to upload a picture when I get it done.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143453#Comment_143453

hahahahah @Lynne69

You give me to much credit... Better question would be "how does he know that?" And the answer is "yes" I have cracked panels before even tho I "knew" what I was supposedly doing 🙂 Caution and patience wins every time 🙂

Dave

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135012#Comment_135012

Hi @Lynne69

This is the cover strap I typically use to cover those types of joins with. Its rounded sides leave a nice finish and it's light enough to make for easy overhead installation. If you have access to a brad nailer, it will make installation very quick and efficient.

Though I have a different brand, this little prybar will be easy to use and with wide flat ends, less likely to leave depressions. It will be easy to tap in under the timbers with its sharp edge and remove nails.

Nailbag

Lynne69

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138389#Comment_138389

Thank you @Nailbag That’s the one I chose from @Dave-1 link, it was the obvious choice. Have you any pics of ceilings you’ve done?

I think the narrow strips on my ceiling covering the joins are metal, and looks like they have been glued on. Will that make a difference?

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140634#Comment_140634

Hi @Lynne69,

Allow me to tag @Nailbag so he is notified of your question.

It shouldn't make a difference if they are glued on. You may just need to use your pry bar to gently open the gap, then use a utility knife to cut the adhesive. It is fairly likely that you won't need to cut the adhesive though.

Just remember to wear gloves, long protective clothing and eye protection as there is always the risk of lacerations when working with knives.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140634#Comment_140634

Hi @Lynne69

You won't be able to nail the new cover strips on if whats securing the sheeting is metal. Son the new would also need to be glued.

As an alternative and might look better and definitely easier and cheaper would be to simply fill the joins with a flexible gap sealer. Just apply and square it off with a spatula. This can then be painted over when art if you paint the sheets.

Nailbag

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