Hello! I am obsessed with these blocks, but unsure how to build a wall with them? previous blocks I have seen have a channel for rebar, but the bunnings ones are flat on all sides, do you just use mortar and that’s it?
Hi @roseche
Happy new year
Yes The breeze blocks are nice to work with
All you need to do is lay some cement footings with trench mesh in the centre and create a level surface on top of the cement.
I would pour footings as a rough guide per height of the block wall
1 brick layer height 250 w 100mm deep with trench mesh
2 - 3 high 250mm wide 150mm deep " "
4 High 250mm - 300 wide by 300mm deep. " "
The footing sounds big but I never had a wall move yet and thats the idea.
Then lay your bricks out on the wall no mortar yet and see if you need to increase the mortar gap slightly to fit a certain measurement.
You cant stretch the bricks but you can increase mortar gap. If you get lucky you wont have to cut a brick,
Or Plan your space in multiples of 300mm (ie 290mm brick +10mm mortar = 300mm) so a 1200mm space will take exactly 4 bricks.
So Yes simple mortar 10mm bed will cross little footing bumps and imperfections the trick is have a small level and tap the bricks level with a lump hammer as you go if you go down take too far take out brick add more mortar and retry.
Using a string line greatly helps here for straightness and it also it is set at 300mm height to get mortar thickness correct even height.
Next row set to 600mm .
Every now and again eye along your wall and gently tap any wayward bricks into line.
You can lay the bricks like a stack usually looks best with this pattern,
They look great painted.
Hope this helps ask more if this insnt clear
oh, thanks so much! incredibly helpful, can’t wait to get started now 🙂
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @roseche. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about constructing a block wall.I'm going to unashamedly take full credit for this one. I spoke to abriMASONRY the supplier and their marketing team last year, and told them that we NEED these blocks available for customers as they are so on trend right now. They had the moulds available in storage for them but they had not produced them in years. Looks like they've got them back into the range. I'm really pleased to see that!
Some great information was provided by @Jewelleryrescue there and it sounds like you are all set. Here's a step-by-step guide that should be helpful: How to build a brick wall.
If you weren't already enthused enough, check out this stunning project from @ProjectPete: Poolside timber cabana with concrete bench.Please let me know if you have any questions.Mitchell
Your timing is impeccable @roseche - was literally just scrolling online trying to find a guide as well as a Summer Project.
@Jewelleryrescue - I'm currently looking to build a free standing breeze block wall as a feature wall in my garden. Your instructions are super helpful.
I'm aiming to build a wall 3-4 bricks wide x 4 bricks high, using similar bricks above.
When you have a moment are you able to correct me if I've missed anything?
- Lay cement footing with trench mess/rebars in the centre to create a level area
- Using your guide above, my cement footing needs to be 300mm wide by 300mm deep?
- Do I need to lay a bottom row of cement bricks as a foundation for the breeze blocks as well or is it not necessary if I've laid a concrete footing?
- When I start laying the bricks, should I use rebars in between the bricks as well?
What I'm most worried about is the structure moving and not being stable enough.
Really appreciate any suggestions.
Thank you!
Hi @bodega
Hi @bodega your wall sounds great :0)
Trench mesh is reo bars connected together so you wont need both.
in Reference to your question check list
1 The mesh supports the cement footing under load as it is webbing like where as reo bars used for pinning slabs together.
Sub note. Ie if you butting up against another existing cement slab use a rotary hammer drill with a drill bit same size or as reo rod and drill in 200mm and hammer a 400mm reo rod into the hole until it is snug so there is 200mm sticking into your new slab footing you can rest the mesh ontop of and tie to.
This means if there is any earth movement the slabs move together if at all. I think you are ready for that extra info. 🙂
1a Footings use parrellel form work timbers set them so the top of the timbers forms to top of the cement desired level this will make it easy to fill to correct level and simply scrap /screed across the timber to level cement Rough finish is ok helps mortar bond. Take your time setting formwork and desired levels and positions as this will be your wall base.
1b Pouring footings make sure cement is wet enough to be free flowing like lava on tv not lumpy. Agitate concrete to flow out and fill the sides to remove air pockets. (Tamping down with metal rake etc.)
2. 300 x 300mm will give you a super rock solid footing. Line the hole with any plastic under the reo as plastic shapes the concrete into a smother rounder edge which is stronger than jaggered concrete with its shape formed by the ground.
3 Now you have super solid footings only add other bricks if you want them in your design, not neccessary functionally.
4. Reo bar is 100% not used in any general brick work I know of and would complicate laying and may even weaken the mortar bed as there is less mortar area. If you find the bricks squeezing mortor out and the bricks sagging simply leave mortar sit on the bricks until it dries out a bit to support brick wieght (do still spritz the new brick so its wet to touch.)
5 Follow you instructions on cement bags for mix ratios.. Footings use General cement
OR for your project pre mixed cement and mortar would be easier. ?
Brick mortar use brick mortar ratios mix water to get a tooth paste like consistancy.
Do pre wet spray with water all footings and cement bricks as you lay them for strongest brick work.
@bodega your brick wall will last 100+ years unless a car hits it first and I hope not .
Footing leave set aweek before bricks. The bricks will dry and form full strength 1 to 2 weeks after setting. You will be able to climb on wall if done right and you have all the clues now to follow that 🙂
Have fun with bricks.
You're an absolute wizard @Jewelleryrescue - will let you know how I go. Thanks so much.
Hi @Jewelleryrescue
Sorry just have a few more questions, no rush getting back.
Does the concrete footing need to be entirely in ground on all sides? Reason I ask is at the back of the footing my garden drops a level so the back of it might be exposed. I’ll cover the exposed side with something eg retaining wall but it won’t be in ground on that side. Hopefully that makes sense?
Also, the soil under footing is hard light brown clay. Am I correct in still laying crushed rock under the footing for drainage? I’m assuming this will be extra depth I need to dig for the crushed rock, if so how many mm?
I can confirm wall will be 4 breeze blocks wide (1200mm including mortar), and 6 blocks high (1800mm high including mortar).
Will 300mm depth and width for footing be supportive enough?
Thanks again.
Questions are good 🙂
The concrete footing dosnt need to be buried under ground. If it is strong enough to self support plus the brick wieght its golden. The other reason footings are under ground is they can look ugly if left blocky and raw, It might be nicer having a lower footing and the bricks sitting on it rising up looking pretty. But good planning can have you footing look nice to as part of your design if you wish If you back side footing is exposed and no ones sees it then no need try cover it. But this is your project option to decide.
IMPORTANT NOTE update you now are planning to go to 1800mm thats 6 Breeze high (including 10mm mortar gaps) and yes confirming 1200mm wide is 4 Breeze blocks.
To go to beyond 4 breeze blocks I highly recommend building them into a frame to keep them strong. Notice How the photo in the earlier cabana has a rear timber post against the bricks and a top rail encapuslating above them to another post? That will keep the brickwork strong if it is ever impacted against by any thing. If a person was to fall against a free standing 6 block high wall they have enough possible force and leverage to fracture the mortar from a side impact and cause the wall to topple on to them. A 4 block high wall can also fracture if hit hard but is stronger lower to the ground and its height has less potental falling brick harm.
So I think those breeze blocks look better framed any how like a picture frame , So your can use timber posts or more longer lasting steel or aluminim posts each side and a capping across the top. all you need to do is make use the internal dimentions of the frame is 1200 X1800mm to house the bricks from the top of the planned footings. You can cement your posts into your footings as you pour them 1200mm apart inner opening. Post length is aprox 520 into the footing ( and 1880 out allowing for a top rail between posts Total length 2.4M ) so your footing is double depth there a bonus.
300mm by 300mm concrete footing and 600mm deep x 300mm for the posts made from general purpose cement mix (as shown on the cement bag Or uses sand cement premix is also fine and plenty strong.)
The sole purpose of a footing is to lock into the ground tighter the better. Any water movement around it after a fresh pour will serve to bring dirt particals to it and lock it in even tighter this is good thing and inevitable on the footing sides. Footings wrapped in plastic are waterproof allready and arnt exposed to ground acidity there for dont need drainage. For the cost of some plastic concrete is protected. And it is how things are done in all footing on any building site I have worked on domestic and multi story as soils vary plastic not necesseary on some drier soil types..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCoLeusk0oQ rare exceptions exist but deeper piers usually dug as compensation.
Deliberatly adding crushed rock is to invite subsidance and or a river under your footings and delay the soil locking in your footings process in fact it will be a soggy mess and potential for movement as dug earth or compacted material is still 50% more loose than surrounding soil and can invite settling of up to 15mm in the first 150mm of compacted gravel. This will not matter on most home projects as mortar can compensate. The earth as it is is super strong especially clay and has being compacting for hundereds of years when we dug the footing hole out of solid earth no amount of compacting rock into that can improve on natural soil compaction the trick here is to clean out all loose dirt and rocks in a natural ground trench for site inspection and best results. There is another different situation where the ground has being dug up them put back is the worst case possibility compaction will assist here of original dirt (Not sandy) I would put in and follow with wider footings and pre soak the ground as much as possible and let it dry out for general project footing settlement.
Gravel is extra digging (better to fill with cement.) , extra material cost. delivery charge. Extra for compactor machine hire. for less benificial results.
Thanks for getting back, great answers as always.
I think I’ve got almost everything covered here before deep diving.
A few more things that I just want to confirm just to be sure.
I’m thinking of using this Concrete for the footing and posts, will this be ok?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/bastion-20kg-concrete-mix_p0038287
I’d prefer to use pre-mixed as I’m in a small space with not much room to make mess.
Now, the timber posts. Just to be 100% clear:
In my 300mm x 300mm footing, I dig 600mm down for the areas the posts are going into, if so:
Should I cement the posts into their 600mm holes first, THEN add the concrete footing, or should I cement it all at once? Reason I ask is Poolside Cabana guide cemented the posts first, then did the footing. If it doesn’t matter either way, I’ll cement the posts firsts.
Should I leave a 10mm gap for mortar between the two posts and the bricks on both sides?
I noticed the following in the guide:
“There's a 10mm rod through each row of mortar that is set into the timber post for plenty of strength. These Breeze Blocks are made with 20mm channels on two perpendicular sides to make the rod easier to embed.”
(I’m getting the same breeze blocks just FYI)
Let me know your thoughts on that.
Thanks again
Hello @bodega
Let me tag @Jewelleryrescue to make them aware of your questions.
In regards to the concrete for the post and footings, I propose using Easy Mix 20kg 55MPa Super Strength Concrete which is a stronger type of concrete, perfect for footings and foundations.
In regards to the sequence, I recommend doing the posts first so that you are not overwhelmed with things to look out for. It's best to do it one step at a time rather than jamming all the steps in one go which opens you up to more errors while assembling your wall.
I suggest going with the recommendation of leaving a 10mm gap for mortar. My best advice is to do a test fit before you commit to fixing it in place. In this manner you'll have a much better idea of what it will look like.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Mortar is plenty strong for your wall size when your wall boxed in by timber frame less complications.
But if your up for it no harm in adding steel reo if you want to if you can you should do it see what you think about the diagram below Exposed block work pier.
Brick work can tower stories above the ground and they need high levels of reenforcing including the grooves made into breeze blocks this is how reenfrcing will look as its supposed to be pinned into the concrete footing and the side walls and footings. So If you want to feel free to add 10mm Reo rod horizontaly and or vertically on every layer you can see now how its done. But do try use one piece per horizontal (Maybe 2 over lapping rods for ease to push into side timber posts) and vertical across all bricks for maximum strength as per the diagram Drill into timber posts sides if you wish too for super support. Also notice the steel plate on the top. Some completly box in the bricks in steel we are adding a timber frame instead. 🙂
The above drawing shows reo every 4 bricks you can do any reo combo you like here for your wall horizontal vertical for every brick row and column If you want vertical reo drill cement holes after cement set at brick mortar measurements.
By all means Sand and cement pre mix is great also use to premixed mortar mix.To fit your workspace at need, The 300x 300 footing plenty deep strong for general cement mixes Use any brand of the following guide
No need to try mortar to the posts as concrete wont stick so set your posts precisely as possible to 1200mm apart which includes all joints for bricks. No need to leave gap between post and bricks unless you want to.
Do pre paint timber stump going into ground for added protection against wood rot. Any paint I prefer bitumous paint for a rubber coating. Do you want to have to replae posts after all this?
See attached rough sketch (not to scale) see how the post footings are one and the same as the brick footings the black line is bottom of cement shape.
Take your time in preparing now it will be worth it.
Dig your post holes 600mm .dig the connecting footings 300mm
Put plastic in trench if you wish optional not in post hole.
Build rectangle form work around both posts and 300mm wide lift and position frame and screw it to pre hammered in stakes on outside of frame.
Reminder the formwork top will be your brick laying surface level. Top of your concrete to make filling and smoothing easy.
Add your reo steel too footings and put rocks under it so its in concrete middle.
Calculation
I am assuming a 2.4Metre post x 100 x100mm notice I put the cross bar inside posts that means 1800mm brick gap plus 100mm for top rail that leaves 500mm below ground
Stand your posts in the ground and lift them and put a half brick under them? so they are 1900mm above the formwork top Ie 1800mm for breeze bricks space and 100mm for top bar. so that leaves (2.4m - 1900 = 500mm below ground. )
Prop your posts level.
No relaese agent required timber wont stick to cement.
Pour your quite wet /runny cement. Giggle and prod cement down thesides smooth top.
Sign your cement. Have a sit down you earnt it.
Wait 1 week for cement to cure to good strength to take frame off ,else the sides might be damaged.
Ok You can pour posts first if you wish just leave the adjoining cement egdes rough and un smoothed to allow the footing cement pour to key into,
Well footings laid well done .
I would only lay 2 brick rows high per session to allow mortar to harden before going up higher you need experiance to lay a whole wall in one effort. at least let 2hours pass for first rows to set harder as if low rows move it might be a restart on first two layers,
Keep bricks saturated wet with hose before laying.
Well Did this cover most stuff 🙂 whew
Thanks so much @Jewelleryrescue @EricL .
Really appreciate the time you've taken to explain everything.
Look forward to starting.
Thanks again, you've been a great help.
All Good @bodega
Enjoy the process and take your time setting up your footings and posts no rush in that step double check your plan and measurements. make sure you lift post to correct hieght do all this. saterday Pour the next day or same day as so your hard work setting up dosnt move on you lol
Next then do the mix and pour the next day so your not rushed as your footing prepared and ready simple fill the footing up to the form work level and do a final straightness check and measurement check as it harder to alter later.
This level of Prep and thinking will put you in an advanved DIY catagory.
Big Tip With your post 1200mm spacing also make your top timber capping and install it on the posts tempary while your preparing footing. Like goal posts. Can I suggest you cut a scrap timber or (fence pailing) to 1200 and use it between the posts as a spacer that way you will have precise paraellel brick gap and it is so much easier proping up two joined timbers than two separate posts. Plus they will be easier to hold square.
I use fence cheap 1800mm pailings to prop hold posts square on all 4 sides easy to screw 30mm temp screw into post to lock pailings under so they dont slip/move.
Step back from the supported posts and eye ball for square and straight. Also use the tape measure or string to measure from corner to corner on the post for square.
Stage two your ready for prep on your brick work. Break the job down into managable steps. 🙂
Love to see your progess photos, and do make mistakes as they are the best teacher of all fixing them.
Hi @Jewelleryrescue, just a quick one.
Posts are in and ready to be cemented. Great idea joining posts with some scrap wood as well.
You mentioned in last post, and in drawing (circled with red):
"Notice I put the cross bar inside posts".
Question - does the cross bar need to be inside the posts or can it sit on top of the posts to encapsulate the bricks?
I'd prefer to have cross bar on top of the posts instead of inside as it adds just a bit more height. However, if this effects stability I'm happy to pass.
Thanks again, talk soon.
Let me tag @Jewelleryrescue to make them aware of your question. I believe you can have it on top outside of the hole. Once the concrete cures it will get taken off, plus having it on top gives you more room to pour the concrete.
You can absolutly put it on top if you want too there is no problem there at all. You can put in 150 mm coach bolts going down into the posts and the heads will be hidden on the top, Just remember to a just your post heights down or trim them off later. Double check your wall will fit inside the dimentions you are creating.
Sorry for delay
Great work on your progress, 🙂
Thanks @Jewelleryrescue as always.
Re: Trench mesh for footing, what heigh does it need to be at before we pour cement?
Or just as long as it's off the ground on a few rocks etc, then that is ok?
Hi @bodega,
Typically, the mesh is placed midway in the footing. If you can do that with rocks, that's fine; alternatively, we have bar chairs.
Mitchell
Thank you @MitchellMc !
Hi @Jewelleryrescue and @MitchellMc
Me again (sorry).
Just wanted to confirm which size Trench Mesh I use for my footing before I order the concrete pour.
Measurement of concrete footing is 1600mm (L) x 300mm (W) x 400mm (Height/Depth).
Was looking at the Jack trench mesh which is 1.8m x 200mm, and has 8mm wires with 4mm cross wires.
Is the 8mm/4mm going to be the right size bars for this type of footing or should I use something more heavy weight?
I often over engineer my projects; I suggest using Australian Handyman Supplies 12mm x 2m Reinforcing Round Bar. It's relatively easy enough to make your own trench mesh by cutting a few bars down and fixing them in place with galvanized wire. If your breeze block wall is going to be more than 1.6 meters tall, it will require stronger steel support.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
sorry mate I being under the weather and couldnt think straight had a massive tooth infection my face still sore and swollen as hell but offending tooth is gone. I am still sore but typing away again
The steel mesh you said 8mm is great. you only need heavier if you driving trucks on a drive way etc.
So for you project of 1400mm wide I would buy 2 sheets of 1.8m x 200mm mesh and over lap them which will give you 2x8 mm in the centre so 16mm of steel.
I would place cut the steel around the post so the mesh goes to with in 30mm of the end . To fit the steel over the post you can cut the inner wires to allow the post position.,
Some times it is easier to lay 1x mesh between the two posts and then cut up a 2nd sheet into like edging strips to go each side of the post and a small cross bit at the very ends of post if it will fit.
The idea is to get a webbing of steel in your cement that aids in load support.
it is not just the thickness of the bar that counts but the webing effect means if one section has a tree root growing under it pulls againts all the steel in the web making the wall 10x stronger. And even if the cement cracks it is still functional strong.
Hope this post gets to you in time,
Doing gods work @Jewelleryrescue,
Appreciate the response and thanks for getting back.
Hope you're feeling better!
Hi @Jewelleryrescue ,
Thought I'd send a quick update.
We are right near the tail end of the project - 5 out of 6 rows have been laid and we're looking good!
Before I send photo updates, wanted to run by you how to properly mount the top of my frame to the timber post on the sides of my wall?
Currently, my side posts are 90mm x 90mm and I plan to put the same timber post on the top of the frame to cap things off. I will get it cut in store and this is the brand I purchased for the side posts.
I need your help with - what screws to use, and what drill piece I'll need to actually get through these pieces - none of my drill pieces have the length to get through the first 90mm??
Wall is looking great, just at this final hurdle. Have attached an embarrassingly bad sketch to explain what I mean.
I trust @Jewelleryrescue will get back to you shortly, but in the interim, I'd recommend using a Sutton Tools 6.0mm Long Series Jobber Drill Bit to pre-drill your top horizontal post and then also to pre-drill your upright posts for the first 50mm. The posts can be fixed together with at least two, preferably three, Buildex 18 - 7 x 200mm Landscaping Construction Screws on each joint.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Excellent progress I was wondering how you where getting on.
Your drawing is absoulutly fine @bodega it conveys your information your need to get your question answered and tradies and DIYers have being doing mud map sketches forever on building materials scrapes of paper and box lids. I bet if you turned a stone over on the pyramids you will find a drawing explaining how they built it lol as they had to show the workers how to do it.
Ok Your timber is a picture frame encapsulating the brick work and they support each other and the brick work ends protected.
All you need to do is join the timber top bit to the lower uprights.
I would use long coach bolts for that 2 per post should be more than enough Drilling in at the side of the top rail into the timber post below.
It is not hard to do but let me out line the steps and materials and tools.
Coach bolts
I/N: 2449420 $1.94
USE M10 washers 1 per bolt it helps weather proof the timber from water incursion.
Thoughts
The idea is to pre drill holes through the top of the cross beam that align with the meaty wood cross section of the 2 upright posts. (We dont want screws near the post sides. as they are weaker there and may poke out.). So We pre drill the holes for the bolts to easy screw through and then all you have to do is Optionally pre paint post ends. Next sit cross beam into place on top of posts aligning pre drilled holes and screw coach bolt down with a shifter spanner or a socket set or other tool (dont forget washers.)
The bolts are on the top so they are not easy seen.
Coach bolts displace alot of timber when we screw them in and will cause the timber to expand and split. So its best to pre drill a hole as deep as you can for the coach bolt. I would also partly drill the second timber starting point as well so only the coach bolt threads into the timber with out splitting it.
Drill diameter is roughly 50% bolt dia where the screw thread is If alll you have is short regular drill bits go as deep as you can, Some times I try my luck and drill from the bottom to meet the top hole . It nevers works but this dose create space for entering bolt to displace timber a bit .
Hope this helps you .
Thanks so much @Jewelleryrescue and also @MitchellMc .
All makes sense, will follow your instuctions and awesome graphic. Thanks again for explaining so well.
Hopefully have some finished photos for you!
Hi. I am clearly a complete novice. Can we build a breeze block wall on to a deck instead of a railing?
Hi @hopeaotearoa,
Thank you for your question and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you join us.
Would it be possible for you to upload some photos of the location you are looking to put a breeze block wall? This will help our members better understand what you are trying to achieve and offer assistance where possible.Assuming the deck you are referring to is up off the ground and made of timber, I am not aware of a method suitable for constructing a block wall in this way.
Block walls require a footing of concrete be poured with reinforcing bar used to tie the wall into the footing securing it in place. I'm not aware of a method that would be suitable for the application you have described but am happy to contact our suppliers for advice when they reopen on Monday.
In the meantime, allow me to tag @Jewelleryrescue to see if they have any thoughts that might help.
Jacob
Hi @hopeaotearoa
I am assuming your deck is timber.
To answer your question can you put breeze blocks onto any flat surface for low walls. The higher the wall the more they fast need more traditional concrete base and metal support rods.
You are better off putting a timber frame and screwing decorative panels too it for long term instead of railings
But lets explore
Yes you can actually glue breeze blocks together with outdoor liquid nails instead of mortar. This will glue to timber as well. I do it often for the odd loose pavers etc this defies traditional cementing more premanent builds but it works all the same. I just glued a row of glass bricks in a low non weight bearing garden wall it is solid looks very good in a decorative way only 600mm height including a besser capping glued on.
Often cemented capping all to often can be impacted and crumble off out door building glue and polymers hold better.
Why you probably shouldnt breeze block the deck directly
On a timber deck I probaly wouldnt go more than 2 breeze blocks high as they weigh in at approx 16kg each Warp your deck.
- Deck needs mantinace for longer life not possible with bricks on it.
- Deck might need replacement later on so your wall will need to come down best to build the breeze block wall on to the ground besides the deck/
