Welcome to Workshop. This looks like a great project and I'm sure community members like @BIM_Engineer will be happy to assist you as they return from holidays.
Feel free post anytime you need a hand or have a new project to share. I see you've also posted about how to reconfigure a sliding door, I'm sure members will be happy to help with that one soon too.
I've come across a few projects of late where DIYers have asked similar questions
and I recon there would be 1000's of renos Alfresco Upgrades that may benefit
Here are some of the issues
-The deck (Floor+Joist+bracket) has to configure within 1 or 2 course Slab Drop off ie 86mm or 172 Respectively
- Since most slabs aren't necessarily level the brackets would need to be adjustable (One size fits all), robust and simple to place and fix
- Also adjust-ability would be a bonus if timber shrinks warps, bows etc.
I'll see if i can locate something suitable off the shelf or which may need slight modifying and post back
@JasonThis would be something that Bunnings should look into
Currently Stirrups would be an overkill and Shims/packers don't fix/attach properly,etc,etc
I have searched but have to no avail found anything that could prop up the joists with such little clearance hence why I went with the plastic window packers!
but will be interested if you find something.
I have a council sewer running through the area I wish to build a deck. Although the deck will be on posts, they are not keep to ‘build over sewer’, but cantilever is ok.
can I cantilever woodedn beams 3 metres?
Generally Water Authorities will require engineering Piling details to be submitted with plans, Engineer Certified and approved
before works can commence
Things to consider, Soil Type (angle of repose), Pad Footings, Pipe Invert level (Depth), Size of the pipe?,etc along with Steel Posts, Beam & Cantilever design? hth
You may wish to consider using a Top Hat Section
Further points to consider
1.Thicker base metal
2.Galv Coating Thickness
3. Wider lip for fixing
4.Slope of slab to avoid water ponding beneath decking
5. Environmental conditions, if Coastal-> Corrosion->Life span
6. Section spacing is dependant on deck type, thickness, material & Loads
OT, It would have been easier & cost effective if the builder dropped the slab another course ( then options would have increased),
The best time to negotiate this & all structural/critical components is before you sign the contract, It's not like you can whip down to Bunnings and change the door handles after hand over, unfortunately now you are left worse off with limited options
Great to see you join in the discussion and see you receive a prompt reply from Chris. We look forward to seeing how your outdoor project progresses.
Welcome to the community. I'm sure you'll receive plenty of helpful information, inspiration and advice for this project as well as many others to come. Our members are very helpful. Feel free to post whenever you need a hand or have something to share.
Bunnings have two types of adjustable deck feet which are perfect for use on uneven concrete. Called Eurotec Smallfoot they come in two sizes. Simply nail screw/your joists to them and put the decking on top.
This thread has been very informative. I am looking at building a 3.6 x 4.1m freestanding deck so i watched the videos on Bunnings website on how to build a deck it seems they use concrete stumps with threads already on them, i like this idea but it seems Bunnings in W.A do not stock these, so what would my options be? Maybe something like this cut to size and concreted in? https://www.bunnings.com.au/100-x-100mm-3-0m-f7-h4-treated-pine-post_p0050067 Also how would i join it to the bearers? with straps maybe? Thanks.