Hi Team, thanks for this great resource, I've viewed many of the threads on here, including previous Colorbond cladding threads.
I have a couple of specific questions relating to cladding, which weren't very clear when viewing previous examples.
1) My colorbond fence C-post profile (B) is far from flush. When I am attaching a frame, should I accept a gap between the frame and the post due to the curve of the post profile? Or should I hammer it down or cut it (which would be time intensive).
2) I have seen recommendations for 35 x 70 H3 pine. Are there any proponents of steel batten (IN 1091204) or steel tophat (IN: 0911006). The batten would be extremely cost effective. I note that Hardie board specifies .55 gauge and 38mm width for steel - however, this will be a sheltered fence and the fibre board should be supported from the bottom.
I would run these horizontally and likely not run any vertical studs at all
3) My fence is currently 1800mm tall, but I wish to extend to 2400mm. How would I most effectively (and best cost value) extend the fence 600mm? I imagine using a wooden frame would have the best advantage here, but I can potentially use Colorbond extension posts and brackets to extend
3) Is there a recommend steel channel/profile to support the bottom of the board instead of having it rest on the gravel? I note hardie requests a 50mm gap but once again, this is a sheltered fence. I imagine an L or U shape channel nailed to the sleeper would give strength
4) Capping and edges - how do I best finish the top? I can cut a length of fibre board, or potentially get a decking board of wood.
5) Paint - will the fibre cement accept acrylic exterior paint? I know it is pre primed and should be painted within 90 days
6) Bonus question: because this fence is being extended and clad mostly to block noise, should I consider adding insulation batts? Note, there will likely be moisture ingress
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, @Doladin. It's great to have you join us, and many thanks for your question on extending and cladding of a Colorbond fence.
To assist our members in providing more accurate advice, it would be fantastic if you could share a few pictures of the area you're working on. If you need any assistance with uploading them, please don't hesitate to let me know.
1) It would be immensely helpful if you could provide a picture, as it would allow us to better visualise your issue.
2) When it comes to attaching anything with weight to a Colorbond fence, it's crucial to construct a self-supporting frame system. This framework will bear the weight and effectively transfer it to the ground. While steel battens may be suitable for conventional construction, they may not be the ideal choice for creating a sturdy frame in this case. This is mainly due to the absence of midpoints to fasten them to, as the Colorbond panel is the only available attachment point, and drilling screws into it would penetrate through to the other side.
3) You could use an aluminium channel for the bottom of the sheet.
3a) For extending a Colorbond fence, the recommended approach is to use the extension posts and panels specifically designed by Colorbond. Here's a helpful guide on How to add an extension to a Colorbond fence. I've reached out to our supplier regarding the availability of a 600mm extension option, and unfortunately, due to potential wind buffeting issues, such an option is not available. The existing posts are not designed to withstand the additional height.
4) The choice of how to finish the top will depend on the aesthetic you desire. A length of 90mm Merbau would provide an appealing look. Alternatively, you could consider attaching a timber trim to the front edge for a more minimalist appearance.
5) You can safely use standard exterior acrylic paint on the fibre cement.
6) While it is possible to add foam or glass wool insulation, the benefits in terms of noise reduction may be limited. Typically, the most significant source of noise transmission occurs over the fence rather than through it.
Please feel free to let me know if you have any further questions or require additional assistance.
Hi Mitchell, cheers for the helpful response!
Images below - as you can see, the neighbours dog has waged blitzkrieg on the fence and the fence position doesn't do much to block sound coming into my carport. I was originally planning on just painting the colorbond, but I now want to achieve a similar outcome to @ProjectPete & @Cracks (inspiration picture attached) - I will paint the concrete driveway, add gravel with agi pipe to level out the gap (after building up with sleepers), and will add some juniper or cypress in pots.
We will add more concrete to the posts of the colorbond, though the fence has stayed remarkably straight as is.
It sounds like timber framing will be the go to - I will encourage my neighbour to clad his side of the fence in the same way for symmetry and strength. I don't mind if he doesn't pursue that option, but I told him that the new extension will look ugly if he leaves it as is. He's sympathetic to my cause for wanting the extension!
I am undecided if I want to add the wooden trim over the posts, or if I will attempt to use joint compound to smoothen where the sheets butt on.
Regarding the frame, there will be many gaps between the frame and the colorbond posts due to the C channel
profile. Is this ok? Should I pack it out somehow?
Now that I've seen photos of your fence, I propose having a look at this discussion as a possible alternative - Merbau panel screening by @WendyL. It's a great way to add extra height to your fence and at the same time covering the Colorbond fence.
Here are some handy links for ideas and inspiration:
Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the start of your fencing project.
Thanks Eric - I'm certainly a fan of the wood slat aesthetic, but my main goal is noise blocking and the Merbau panels have plenty of gaps. If I buy 2.4m decking lengths instead of the panels, the cost is quite high over 12 metres
Step 1 will be to remove the various 'fill'
Step 2 will be to route an agi
It'll be a relatively slow burning project (unfortunately) and I thank everyone for their input
Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the start of your fence extension project.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
stage 1 complete! Sleepers inserted, and instead of additional concrete we fabricated a galvanised shs tube to brace between the posts and bolted into the concrete. Took me and my neighbour all day!
I will be building the frame next. 35x70 treated pine, trying to keep the slimmest profile possible (unlike say framing a house where you turn the longer side of the lumber perpendicular to the wall, or unlike a post and batten system). I'll likely use pocket hole screws and glue unless someone can convince me otherwise
My question is - how should I attach 4.5mm Hardie tex to the frame? The brochure recommends hammering in nails, but I'd prefer to avoid that. I do own a brad nailer, but unsure if the heads are large enough to hold the sheet properly.
If I use counter sunk self drilling metal screws, is there a trick to it? Is there a jointing compound where can smooth the screw heads, like with gyprock?
I've got to say, this is a really wholesome discussion @Doladin - nothing like two neighbours working together to build an improved fence. On the other hand, I have been without a boundary fence for two and a half years, leaving only construction fencing between the properties whilst the house next door gets built. There's nothing like really being part of the construction process, every step of the way.
Pocket holes screws and glue would be fine, or you can just screw through the butt joints with Climacoat screws.
Hardietex does need to be nailed to a timber frame. You can hire a framing nail gun for 4 or 24hrs for a reasonable rate. Brad nails do not have big enough heads to effectively hold the sheets.
You can use a patching compound like Polyfilla 500g Exterior Brick and Render Masonry to fill over the heads of the screws.
Please let me know if you have further questions.
and she's up!
Very happy with the neatness of the look.
Next round of questions -
1) Taubmans sunproof, do I need an undercoat?
2) fence capping. Aka C channel. The fence is 55mm thick, and I'd like a 25mm approximately lip. Is there a PVC product, otherwise what is the next most cost effective product? Worst case scenario should I get a colourbond channel over the top?
That fence cover looks fantastic! In regards to Taubmans Sunproof, there is no need for a primer as Sunproof is self-priming. Just make sure that the surface is free of dirt and debris before you start painting. I also recommend covering the floor with paint cover sheets so that any errant paint splashes will not go on your driveway.
For the fence capping, I suggest either 90 x 22mm Decking H3 Treated Pine - 2.4m or having a custom Lysaght flashing ordered at the store. I suggest speaking to your store's special orders team in order to get a quote for the custom flashing. Please make sure to provide yourself with a bit of leeway when ordering the custom flashing as it will be machine processed. This means that when you ask for a 55mm channel it will be exact and will have no room for play or adhesive.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.