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How to fill fence post gap?

Hey guys i put up a bespoke fence recently but due to some difficulties where i could place my fence posts i now have a gap that i need to close. On the left i have a horizontal slat in position and the vertical bracket/channel its slots into. If i fix the bracket/channel directly to the post on the right, the slat(s) wont reach 🙄

So my problem is how do i fill the gap. My initial thoughts were to buy a plastic square pole - however the gap tapers from 30mm to 20mm so i would need to adjust the pole but i cant even find one. I'm really struggling to find anything i can use to fill the gap and attached the bracket/channel to, and then subsequently attach to the fence post where i can then finish with the rest of the slats. Any help would ne hugely appreciated, im all out of ideas 😭 Additional - I'm trying to avoid using wood if possible.

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Comments

EricL

Hello @elbow

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks for sharing your question about your fence.

Have you considered putting in a timber insert? A timber piece can be much easier to trim down so that it fits into the gap perfectly. You can screw the posts into it so that both sides are supported, and it can be painted black so that it blends in with the fence.

If you get a treated piece of timber such as 70x35 H3 it should last quite a while before it needs replacing and if painted will provide a much longer service life.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @JacobZ95 for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

elbow

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/35817#Comment_35817

Hello Eric I should have mentioned re the wood option - I'm really trying to avoid using wood although its the easiest option of course but i'm trying to avoid termites and maintenance long term - ill try and edit the post to reflect this but if wood ends up being my only option, what trpe would be a good choice and what to paint it with? 🙂

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/80172#Comment_80172

Good Morning @elbow

Its always a pain having something not quiet right, So no timber prefered 🙂 I was heading straight for it lol

How about using a piece of Composite Decking instead? You could cut it to size (that 30mm down to 20mm) and to make it wider you could have two pieces back to back. It wont rot or warp either.

Dave

JacobZ95

Hi @elbow,

Could you use something like Metal Mate 32x3mm 3m Black Aluminium Flat Bar?

Then just pull the post on the right over while screwing off to keep the gap consistent.

Let me know what you think,

Jacob

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/80172#Comment_80172

Is there any chance you could address the tapering issue @elbow? Is either the posts in your image or those out of frame not perpendicular to the ground? Obviously, if they are concreted into a footer, there might not be a chance of adjustment. If this is a case of one of the posts being out of alignment, you could potentially use a rachet strap around the top of the two posts and pull them together. You'd need to be careful not to damage them, but that could help minimise the gap, correct the taper and allow you to fix off to your gap filler.

Since you are looking for options, what about a Jack 34mm x 1.8m Black Jumbo Garden Stake?

Mitchell

elbow

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/104572#Comment_104572

Hello Dave, this is deffo one to consider if i cant get anything plastic. i hadn't considered the non-rot aspect so will look into that - thank you

elbow

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/35827#Comment_35827

Hey Jacob, thanks for the suggestion. the post on the right is fixed into the ground and the left one, if moved over will then not hold the slats, as will be too far away 🙁

elbow

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/104573#Comment_104573

Hey Mitchell

thank you for the ideas - unfortunately its a case of needing something to plug the tapered gap. The post on the right is fixed into the ground, and the taper is something i cannot change unless i reset one of the posts at either end of this fence section which at this stage i could not even contemplate so i have to live with it. 😭 the fence slats slide into position, guided by the runners attached to the main posts, so i cant move anything unfortunately

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/119374#Comment_119374

Afternoon @elbow

Just reading down through the comments and I had a thought. Could you put a spacer on the post to the left that we cant see and then the slat guide on that? It may reduce the tappering to the point it will be hidden by the slat guide.

Dave

elbow

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/128287#Comment_128287

That could be very possible - I'd have to take a look, probably tomorrow . I have about a 10mm diff top to bottom (taper) and the length is 170cm. the only issue might be that the slats are screwed into place, so whether i'd have enough to drive a screw through would need to be a consideration. ill deffo look into this so thank you again 👍

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134043#Comment_134043

Hello @elbow

It's great that you've received excellent suggestions from our members.

In regards to the type of timber, I'm staying with my original suggestion of using 70 x 35mm Outdoor Framing H3 Treated Pine - 2.4m. Structural Treated pine is for external above ground structural use. Each piece of structural timber is treated for borers, termites and is able to be subjected to moderate wetting in a well-ventilated area for up to 20 years.

I suggest painting the timber with Gripset Betta 1L Waterproofing Membrane Bitumen Rubber. Bitumen Rubber is a versatile solvent free liquid membrane that can be used as a Bitumen Polymer Membrane or used as a cost-effective Bitumen Paint for general applications. This will provide superior protection against wet weather.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

elbow

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137669#Comment_137669

Hey Eric, yes some great ideas and certainly a few to explore - im really grateful and thank you for coming back with the wood/coating suggestions - massively helpful 🙏

elbow

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137669#Comment_137669

Hey Eric

I am going to go with your suggestion, it is the easiest and most practical solution and of course does involve wood which is the obvious choice in terms of achieving what i need. One more question is what is the best screw-type as it will need to fix to steel, through the aluminum slat channel and wood. Steel being the post. I can drill a pilot hole into the steel but of course the screw once in, must stay in. The screw length would need to cover the gap at the top of 40mm plus however long to hold into the hollow steel post. The bottom gap is about 20mm so maybe need to different length screws but mainly im not sure what type screw to use. 😁

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140148#Comment_140148

Hello @elbow

I suggest using Zenith 10G x 65mm Galvanised Countersunk Head Metal Screws - 50 Pack for the large gap and then the Zenith 10G x 40mm Galvanised Countersunk Head Metal Screws - 50 Pack for the shorter gap. These are self-tapping metal screws and will drill through timber as well. Double check your distances before finalizing your choice.

Please remember to leave a gap of at least 30mm at the bottom making sure that the timber does not touch the soil. H3 treated timber is not rated for in ground use.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

elbow

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141907#Comment_141907

Thank you Eric, very much appreciated and great reminder about the wood & Soil 🙏

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