How to improve appearance of patio roof?

Hello, this is the current patio roof on the house I've purchased. I am assuming the silver is some insulation. It obviously doesn't look great so looking for suggestions on t he best way forward. Should I remove the silver liner (it's under some chicken type wire) or should I add some boards over the top to cover it? I was thinking maybe cement sheeting? Or is there a better alternate that would work and look nice? Thanks!

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EricL

Hello @Ana101

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. Thank you so much for joining us and sharing your question about your patio roof.

I suggest using James Hardie HardieFlex™ 2400 x 450 x 4.5mm Eaves 1.08m². It can be hand nailed or gun nailed providing nails are not over-driven. You can cut it to size easily with a score and snap knife. It is deemed non-combustible and suitable for bushfire-prone areas. It will resist damage from rot, moisture, termites, and fire.

I recommend using James Hardie Villaboard Knife Score and Snap to easily cut the HardieFlex to the size that you need. Please note that the HardiFlex comes in different sizes, make sure to measure the gap between your timbers before proceeding to the store. I suggest using Fibre Cement Nails to attach the panel to your patio ceiling.

If you need more advice or information, please let us know.

Eric

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/17254#Comment_17254

Tagging @EricL -

Resurrecting an old thread, but we’ve got the same type of project and had a couple of questions.

Our joists are at 900mm spacing, so (I think) we need to batten it out before we install the HardieFlex. For battening, we had some questions to try and decide on which type:

- Steel battens: the HardieFlex eaves install manual talks about metal battens needing to be >0.5BMT and 45mm wide. I couldn’t find a Bunnings metal batten product that met that spec, or am I not looking in the right area? The Siniat product was a 22mm with a 0.45BMT

- Timber battens: it’s much easier to find the right size timber battens, and probably easier to nail in too. But is weight a concern, or is the batten weight going to be negligible vs the steel roof that’s on there now/the weight of the HardieFlex?

Appreciate any help!

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/82939#Comment_82939

Hi @ishkan,

You can use these Australian Handyman Supplies 40mm x 6.1m Zincalume Steel Topspan Roof Battens which exceed the requirements set out in the HardieFlex manual.

You could also use rough sawn timber battens which are often available in stores but come from regional suppliers, so they are not listed on our website. I'd suggest giving your local store a call and speaking to the team in the Timberyard about their availability.

You can also use 70 x 35mm Outdoor Framing H3 Treated Pine as battens, but the cost is likely more than the battens I have mentioned above.

The weight shouldn't be an issue assuming the roof structure is well constructed and in good condition, but if you are concerned I would advise contacting an engineer for their assessment.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to reach out.

Jacob

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/106297#Comment_106297

Thanks @JacobZ appreciate the quick response!

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/120326#Comment_120326

Sorry @JacobZ another question if you wouldn’t mind:

We’re narrowing in on timber battens. Would you know what the recommended gauge of brad nails is for fixing them to joists?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/128954#Comment_128954

Hello @ishkan

Can you please tell us what timber batten size you've chosen? Generally speaking, a good rule of thumb for picking screws or nails for your project is this: The length should be twice the thickness of the wood you're driving through. So, if you're driving through a 70mm x 35mm piece and drilling or nailing through the 35mm side, then you should opt for a 75mm long screw or nail.

I also suggest having a look at this guide - How to choose the right screw for the job by @Adam_W.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134421#Comment_134421

Thanks @EricL! really useful guide and guidance, appreciate it.

We’re going to proceed with the 70x35mm battens suggested by @JacobZ in an earlier post so your example is perfect.

Thanks again!

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137934#Comment_137934

Sorry, another question, @EricL @JacobZ, are there any spacers you’d recommend for leveling battens once they’re screwed in to make it flat for the Hardieflex? I saw a bunch of window shims - are they ok for ceiling/joist levelling applications?

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140337#Comment_140337

Hi @ishkan

Yes, you can use plastic window shims to level the battens to the height that you need. My best advice is to use a builder's line so that you have a guide for the timber battens level.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142063#Comment_142063

Thanks!

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143305#Comment_143305

Might be a silly question, but would something like this be OK for battens? @EricL @JacobZ

https://www.bunnings.com.au/75-x-38mm-4-8m-fence-rail-h3-treated-pine-wet-sawn_p0120814

EricL

Hello @ishkan

Although both timber pieces are treated, I believe you are better off with the 70x35 as it is produced for framing.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144225#Comment_144225

Evening @ishkan

That link I cant get to work, This is the closest I could find to what you were asking size wise. 70 x 35mm Outdoor Framing H3 Treated Pine - 2.4m

Yes I would use this for battens.

Dave

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144904#Comment_144904

Thanks both

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134421#Comment_134421

Just on nails again - @EricL @JacobZ - is there a nail gun you'd recommend for getting the Fibre Cement Nails in?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137950#Comment_137950

Hi @ishkan,

You can use a gas framing nailgun to install Hardieflex sheets. They take specific gun nails, not the clouts recommended for hammer driving. The only requirement is that they must be full-circle head nails and not D nails. Nails can be purchased when you hire the gun.

Mitchell

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140341#Comment_140341

Hi team, @MitchellMc @EricL @JacobZ

I’ve got the battens (50mmx25mm) and 4.5mm hardieflex. Am trying to work out the right screw for getting the battens on.

I’ve come across batten screws on the Bunnings website, which are 14G 75mm. Are they too big for the thickness of my battens? They have a 35mm unthreaded section under the head, so my battens wouldn’t be threaded into anything. Is this ok, or should I be trying to get my screw threads to bite into both the batten and the joist above it?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142084#Comment_142084

You'd likely be fine with 50mm batten screws, @ishkan. These also have an unthreaded section beneath the head, but that's no concern. The screw, as it tightens, will pull the batten against the rather and fix it solidly in position.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

ishkan

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143319#Comment_143319

Thanks!

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