How to reduce low-level deck framing cost?

Hi, I am building a low lying deck at the back of my house. The max depth I have to work with near the door is 200mm, and 260mm at the end of the deck.
I have prepared a layout plan based on my research. keen to know if there are any opportunities to reduce the cost of the frame I.e is it too conservative a design and can I widen spans or reduce sizes of Timbers.

I have annotated the spacings, where I will use adjustable deck supports (DS) and joist hangers (JH) for the bearers connecting to the house. I’m not sure which size of timber for the piece that spans along the length of the house that the hangers connect to. Also having trouble knowing which size JH to use as nothing quite fits 90x140 - can only see 90x200 on the website and would require trimming. Hope you can assist!

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Comments

MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Bee83. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about constructing a deck.

Your plan looks good. Although max span on a 90 x45mm joist is around 1800mm, I generally advise closer to 1000mm so you end up with a rock solid deck. My advice would be to shorten the spans on the joists, as you risk ending up with a spongy/bouncy deck.

Joist hangers predominantly cater to 45mm thick timber, so there are limited options for laminated timber amounting to 90mm. Trimming the available hanger to size might be the only option.

You could use the same 140 x 45mm timber for the waling plate. Just so you're aware, you can not attach a waling plate to a brick veneer wall. So, that would only be a suitable attachment method on a timber frame house, where you can bolt through the structural members. The alternative is not to attach to the house, but use the adjustable supports along the wall.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

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