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How to rejuvenate decking and surrounding fence?

I'm hoping for advice please, with regard to my decking and the fencing around the edges. We've recently moved to a new house, the decking looks very neglected, and I have no info re what wood it is etc. It was mouldy so we did a chemical strip (sodium percarbonate & then oxalic acid), so the mould is gone. But my question is what next?

Im hoping the fencing doesn't need replacing as it seems sturdy, but is full of cracks and looks dried out. I see some advice on similar projects says to fill the cracks, but this is full of them. You can see the handrail looked a lot better after sanding, but again, what next?

I've used cabots aquadeck for my main deck, I believe it's a great product, but I'm not sure it's the right thing for this deck, and it doesn't seem like it would be enough on it's own.

Im in south east queensland, this deck will be in harsh conditions.

Please could anyone advise? TIA

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Comments

chriscam82

hi
you basically need to sand it all back to bare wood

MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Rachel46. It's marvellous to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about restoring a deck.

What you’re seeing with your decking and handrail is really the natural progression of timber in harsh conditions. Timber cracks as the grain opens up, and once those cracks form, water can sit inside them every time it rains. That trapped moisture encourages further deterioration. Even if you simply oil the timber, you will nourish it and slow decay, but the cracks themselves will continue to collect water, so the problem doesn’t go away on its own.

For your handrail, filling the larger cracks with an exterior timber filler is definitely worthwhile, especially the tops of posts and any deep splits, as these hold the most water and are the points where decay is likely to start first. Hairline cracks are less of an issue and can be left alone. Sanding the handrails, as you’ve done, looks great because it removes the dry, weathered surface and allows the timber to better absorb protective coatings. But unless you address the deeper cracks, deterioration will continue underneath the surface.

For your deck and stairs, the existing coating is deteriorating and flaking, which is why sanding back to fresh timber is essential, as @chriscam82 has mentioned. Any fresh coating applied over the old degrading layer will fail quickly, and you’ll end up with an inconsistent finish with patches of bare timber and coated timber. Sanding removes the old, failing layer, exposes fresh timber, and gives you a consistent base for your new coating.

Once you’ve sanded back to fresh timber, fill the larger cracks on the posts and boards, and then apply a product like Cabot’s Aqua Deck over the prepared surface. This will nourish the timber, protect it from moisture, and prolong its life. Addressing the cracks before coating is important; otherwise, water will keep sitting in those gaps, and the deterioration process will continue even under a fresh coat.

Here's a helpful guide: How to sand a deck.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Rachel46

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/61360#Comment_61360

Thanks Chris

Rachel46

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/61374#Comment_61374

Thank you Mitchell.

That makes sense.

I have a couple more questions.

What would be a tough enough product to use to fill these type of cracks? Or could you tell me what type of product please.

Does it matter what grade sand paper? I believe rule of thumb is start with low numbers and get finer, but to what number at highest? I know anything is an improvement at this point.

Last question - in sequence should I sand, then fill, then sand again, before applying aquadeck?

Thank you

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/93163#Comment_93163

I'd suggest filling the cracks with an exterior timber filler, @Rachel46. If you tap the blue link it will take you to the product. You might find that you need to stain the timber and new filler in a Merbau colourant to blend nicely.

You’re correct about starting with coarser grits first. Lower numbers cut faster and are good for getting through any decayed or rough timber. For a deck and handrails like yours, you might start with 60 grit to quickly remove the previous coating and flatten the surface. From there, move up to 120 grit to smooth it out, and finish with 240 grit for a nice even surface before applying any filler or coating.

In terms of sequence, you’ve got it right: sand first, then fill the larger cracks or gaps, and sand the filler back flush with the timber. After that, you can stain the filled areas to match the rest of the timber. This is important if you want the filler to blend in, especially with Merbau or darker timbers. Once that’s done, you can apply your Cabot’s Aqua Deck over the whole area. You could skip the staining and just use the Merbau-tinted Aqua Deck, but the filler will often still stand out a little unless it’s pre-stained, so staining the filled areas first usually gives the cleanest, most consistent finish. When staining, I would do the whole handrail and posts.

Mitchell

Rachel46

Thank you for that comprehensive advice, I don't have any more questions about that job, but I do have another job I'd like you to advise me on please.

Its the external side of a servery window which slides open. The top part is in pretty good shape, but both the static and moving parts at the bottom are looking pretty neglected.

This opens onto a deck, and so is exposed to the weather but is undercover.

Im guessing there will be sanding involved to start, probably more refined than my other project? If you could specify what grade from and to that would be great. Or if there is an alternative to sanding?

But I'm unsure about what products to use when the old product has been removed? I would like to change the colour anyway, to another natural wood colour, so don't worry about colour match to existing.

Photos coming in 2 installments.

All advice gratefully received.

Thanks, Rachel

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/61384#Comment_61384

For your servery window @Rachel46, you’re correct that sanding will be the first step, especially on the neglected lower parts. Start with a coarser grit, around 120, to remove old coatings and any rough or weathered timber, then move up to 240 grit to smooth the surface for finishing. This will give you a clean, even timber surface ready for a new product.

If you want to avoid sanding, chemical paint or varnish strippers are an alternative, but they can be messy and require careful use with PPE. For small areas like this, sanding is usually easier and more precise.

Once you’ve removed the old coating, you can apply a penetrating stain in your preferred wood colour. Apply the finish evenly, following the manufacturer’s instructions. You can then seal in the stain and protect it and the timber from the weather with a varnish.

Mitchell

Rachel46

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/93165#Comment_93165

Thank you so much Mitchell.

Thats great, easy to follow advice, and I didn't expect such prompt replies.

Is there a way for me to give feedback so you get kudos for doing a great job?

Kind regards,

Rachel

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/112801#Comment_112801

It's my pleasure, @Rachel46.

No need to provide feedback, my boss will see your reply here. Plus, he already knows how fabulous I am. 🤣

I really do appreciate it, though.

Mitchell

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/112801#Comment_112801

Many thanks for the lovely feedback @Rachel46.

Please don't hesitate to post whenever you need a hand. We're here to help.

Jason

Rachel46

I have a question regarding your advice for the servery window please.

Now because it's a servery window, the same product will need to be used inside and outside, and so needs to be suitable for the outside.

The stain options in your advice all specify they are suitable for interior, though the varnish options are suitable for external use.

Would I not need a stain suitable for exterior?

Thanks, Rachel

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/61682#Comment_61682

Feast Watson does have concerns that the stain could fade, especially if it is exposed to harsh sunlight, @Rachel46. They are suggesting that you go with an exterior stain and varnish product and use that on the inside, too. The only alternative would be to use the exterior stain and varnish on the outside and then interior products on the inside, but you'd have to match the stain as best you could, and it wouldn't be an exact match from inside to outside.

Mitchell

Rachel46

Thanks Mitchell

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