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How to repair crack in fibreglass water feature?

I purchased a 2000 x 2100 fibreglass/concrete water feature yesterday. During transport the face panel received a hairline crack aprox 900mm. I thought if anything the concrete trough would have received damage but it travelled fine.

The red line defines the crack line from the Buddha’s lip to the out edge of feature. The face panel is fibreglass (trough concrete).

What product/s and how do I repair this crack. I’m devastated and she is my pride and joy.
Repairs are crucial prior to assembling water feature, as I don't want to risk the crack getting worse by moving it and also need to avoid mould in the future if used and not repaired. Also, it’s very heavy so once in place it won’t be moved.
It is currently laying flat on a large outdoor table waiting for me to give her cosmetics surgery lol
Any advise us greatly appreciated.

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Jewelleryrescue

Hi @Neen

Nice water feature.

I would repair the crack from behind the sculptre if the crack line goes all the way through that is.

The idea is to use aradite glue or any epoxy on the crack from behind gently flexing the sculputer from behind expanding the crack slightly if possible while wiping the glue into the crack until it comes all the way through and has a small bead at the front you can wipe of soon.

This way the glue gives maximum support to the fault line and it seals the crack with minimal mess out the front.

Just wipe the front of the crack with turps on a cloth. for a smooth clean near invisable repair .

for an extra strong repair use a fibre glass repair kit as it has matting you can glue on to over the crack to reenforce the inside of the crack fault line,

To use matting/ Wipe resin on crack line next add matting on top then next coat matting with more resin until it is stuck down.

Protite 250g Small Fibreglass Kit

https://www.bunnings.com.au/protite-250g-small-fibreglass-kit_p1560647

I/N: 1560647

$28.08

Hope this helps.

EricL

Hello @Neen,

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Jewelleryrescue. I totally agree with the recommendations made to repair the damage from the back. The last thing you want to do is to attract attention to the crack at the front of the statue.

Touching up the crack with paint or tint is just as visually hazardous as it will again call attention to the damage. I propose leaving the damage at the front as is and repair it from the back. As time passes the crack will age along with the rest of the water feature and will become indistinguishable.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Neen

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/35067#Comment_35067

Thank you Eric.

As I can’t see the back of the Buddah Face panel due to it being on a table I’m pretty certain the crack is it all the way through.

If it’s lifted into position or turned over prior to repairing it I’m concerned it will crack further.

I have been advised by a Shipwright to use small amounts of resin on the front ensuring it’s only in the crack.

He has generously given me some resin and a hardening agent that he uses . Also acetone to clean the crack prior to repair.

Once this is dry, I will have the panel turned over to inspect if the crack has gone to the back. If so, I’ve been advised to do the same on the back as front.

Once again thank you for your advice.

I'll keep you updated on the progress.

Many thanks

Janeene

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/79844#Comment_79844

Hi @Neen

I would get some helpers and stand the face up on its footing as it was designed to do that way you can access both sides of the repair. If it survived being put out on the table it will survive being stood up right.

To support the crack put cloth tape or duct tape over the split to support it while moving it. If you need to lean the face on the table for support while the repair is in progress.

A face side repair will possibly be superficial and messy thats why I say lets do from the back..

Your shipwright person is kind and help full dont forget to get fibre glass matting as that is key to a long life repair across the crack I am pretty sure your shipwright person meationed that to.

I just want you nice face fixed an safe.

Neen

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/104366#Comment_104366

Thank you for checking in on me.

I have used resin in the crack from the front and is looking alright. Not perfect but fingers crossed when stood up (as you suggested) I will be able to see the back and check it out better.

The shipwrights only suggested resin, but saying that if there is a crack in the back I will use the fibreglass matting.

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/119267#Comment_119267

Hi @Neen

I think you will agree there is no harm in doing both the front and back and fibre glass webbing for that stronger repair. I know you like your face.

Some times I build /repair things over strong but in the long run things last for many years and that is a good thing just so you know where i am coming from. 🙂

Ps Good job in doing the front the more that went through the crack the stronger the repair. 🙂

Neen

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/128222#Comment_128222

Your right, better to be safe than sorry.

Fingers crossed it stays glued so I can view the back and reinforce if required.
How long does resin take to set before moving the Buddah face. I forgot to ask the Shipwright.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134008#Comment_134008

Hi @Neen

Have a good look at the resin packaging, it might have an indicator on curing time. If not, I would conservatively give it two days to cure before moving it.

Eric

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