How to replace damaged soffit?

[Wintermute]

Hi looking for some advice on replacing damaged soffit boards. First off is this an easy enough task for a novice DIYer?

I measured 3 pieces at 2400l x 540w.

what do I need for materials & tools?

how should I cut the board to fit down pipe through? See image.

Cheers

rob

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @Wintermute,

I wouldn't call it the easiest task, but I also wouldn't call it the hardest.

The main element that will make it difficult is the downpipe. You would have to disconnect it, then cut the hole in the eave sheet, fix it in place and then slip the downpipe through it and reattach it to the gutter. To tell you the truth, can't tell how they did this in the first place because there is no joint in the soffit around the pipe.

If it is safe to do so, could you take a photo of where the gutter and this downpipe connect from above? 

If we can work out how they originally did this, the rest is relatively simple.

You'd grab three of these James Hardie 2400 x 600 x 4.5mm HardieFlex Eaves, mark out the width, then use a Score and Snap Knife to cut them to width. You'd then slip them up into the groove in the back of the fascia board (if there is one), slip some 4.5 - 6mm  Joiners between the ends of the boards, and then fix them in place with some clouts.

To cut the hole in the eave, you could mark out the location, then drill a hole in the four corners using a masonry bit, then use the score and snap knife repeatedly until you punch through the sheet.

Seeing how the gutter attaches will be the deciding factor, so once we can see how it is attached, I can advise further.

Allow me to tag @Nailbag to see if he has any experience with this kind of work and if he can offer any insight.

Jacob

[Wintermute]

Hey Jacob,

thanks for the advice. The down pipe is connected to a box gutter. I was thinking to add a new joint at one side of DP and notch other side. Then I don’t need to remove it and easier to measure and cut was my thought.

cheers 

Rob

[EricL]

Hi @Wintermute 

I always do a mock-up of complex eave joints. I suggest grabbing some cardboard and doing your initial measurements from there especially if you are thinking about adding a new joint. The cardboard layout will also show you what might come up while installing the eaves. But if it all works out then you can be confident when you cut the eaves that everything will fit in nicely and installation will not be too difficult.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @Wintermute 

Replacing sheets will require you to remove the quad trim on the house side and end of the eve. This will allow you to pull the sheet out from the slot on the facia boards. It will take some prying to get the sheet out of the PVC sheet joiner. Then move to the next sheet. Use the old sheets as a template for the new ones. Sheet 3 will be more difficult.

Looking at the photo I see 3 sheets I assume you want to replace?

#1. Does this sheet have other damage other than the square hole to fill? If its just in needing to fill the hole, that what I would do rather than replace the sheet. Basically I would fill the hole as if I was repairing a plasterboard hole. We can advise if thats the case.

#2. Only appears to have the single round hole as being an issue, again I would be inclined to fill than replace.

3# Only appears to have a crack where the down-pipe enters. If this is all that is wrong, then definitely I would only fill to patch and use a silicone gap filler around the downpipes entry point.

If you actually want to replace the sheet, then it's going to be VERY involved as that sheet was in place prior to the down pipe being installed. And one I would recommend not going down the track of. But if you do, there are two ways to attack this.

The first will involve cutting the downpipe under the eve and disconnecting it from the box gutter above. Use the sheet to template the replacement and then drop a new section of downpipes from above. Not an easy DIY job.

The 2nd option is one I have recently done myself with a round breather pipe. It was a very old house and so I couldn't match the pipe size to simply cut and replace. So, it was (not that) easier to leave the downpipe in place and replace it with two pieces with a join at one edge of the down pipe. Unfortunately the photo doesn't show it well at all, but hopefully you get the idea. This is still a VERY difficult job, especially if you're fussy as I am in ensure the join is as clean as possible. It took me two goes at it on one side and lots of expletives as it was also all overhead work.

Nailbag