We intend to replace decking about 12 meter sq. Photos attached.
please let us know if your are running any related weekend workshops in Broadmeadows/Craigiebun bunnjngs. Ali looking for some videos that could suggest us material and tools required to complete DIY task. Thank you.
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Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @smhasnain. It's great to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about replacing decking.
You typically won't find in-store workshops on replacing decking. However, you've come to the right place, as the Bunnings Workshop community is filled with knowledgeable members that can assist with your project. You might like to have a look at this previous discussion by @darrenh on Replacing a low-level deck. They replaced a decayed deck with Ekodeck and achieved some sensational results. I'd suggest looking at Ekodeck, as it is more resistant to decay than timber decking and doesn't require yearly oiling. If you are unsure what decking boards to use, check out this helpful article on How to select decking timber.
For replacing the damaged boards, this guide on How to renovate a timber deck will be useful.
You'll need to remove some boards with a wrecking bar to get an indication of how involved this project will be. Hopefully, this project will only require you to remove and replace the decking boards. However, I suspect you're going to find that the deck structure has begun to decay, especially in that step area. You'll need to repair or replace any decayed timbers in the frame before relaying the decking. Not to worry, though, as we can guide you through that process too. Upload some images of the deck frame once you've removed some boards so we can advise on the next steps.
For relaying the boards, you'll require a drill driver, which you'll use for the decking screws, and a circular saw will be needed for cutting the decking boards to length. Please remember your PPE when disassembling the deck and reinstalling the boards, including safety glasses, gloves and a face mask.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you Mitchell for your detailed response.
Just two quick questions:
what is the best way to remove top boards (that are secured with nails on timber frame), so structural timber is not damaged. As I do not want to change the framings.
Do you suggest to use composite material or Protechwood Proshield as board over merbau decking.
The best way to remove the boards, @smhasnain, would be to pry up one end with the wrecking bar and then make your way down the board. At each joint where there is a nail, insert the wrecking bar between the decking board and the timber joint. Lever up on the board to ease the nail out of the joist. To save some time, you can use the circular saw to cut in between the rows of nails, reducing the decking boards' length. The smaller sections of the decking board should be easier to remove than longer lengths. Make sure not to cut through the joists whilst doing this.
Your decking boards are heavily decayed, much more so than I would expect on a dwelling that doesn't appear all that old. I'd suggest a high humidity level within the deck structure is accelerating its decay. Composite decking will be far more resilient than Pine decking and also Merbau decking. If the current decayed decking is hardwood like Merbau, then I would suggest you switch to composite decking. If the current decking is Pine, I'd suggest you switch to a hardwood like Merbau or composite decking.
Thank you for your great reply.
how do i know whether existing deck is Pine or Merbau?
The current deck board is 17x90mm, shall we go for the same size or go for larger board?
How we can put the screws from the side of board into the frame, so screws are not visible.
If you were to cut a length of timber and show us the inside, we could likely determine if it is Pine or Merbau. Pine is lighter, and Merbau is deeper red/brown-toned timber. Merbau is a hardwood that doesn't dent or scratch easily.
The width of your board is up to your personal preference. Having a wider board is typically considered more luxurious and provides a more spacious and modern look.
Please let me know if you have further questions.
After having great advice from you, I have started work on to replace decayed deck at step area (refer attached Image 1 as a beginner When I removed a couple of lengths of decayed decking boards at the step area, I found that the deck structure has begun to decay (refer attached Image 2).
Although I relayed the 70mm Merbau decking boards temporality over this substructure but intend to do it properly. I used a drill driver as shown in Image A and Macsim 8G x 50 SS Decking Screws. Which brings me a couple of Questions and looking for a cost effective and less laborious options.
Q1: My current decking structure is more than 18 years old. Do you recommend changing the substructure at this stage, if yes then what sort of timber, nails/screw I can use it for this external decking. In this situation any suggestion to rebuild the substructure is highly appreciated. Do I suppose to put any protector over timber?.
Q2: How I can remove joist hangers to separate timber pieces (refer attached Image 3).
Q3: When I was inserting the Macsim 8G x 50 SS Decking Screws specially at the edge of the board by using drill driver (as shown in Image A) then it cracked the board (refer image 4 and 5) and even I damaged the board when inserted the screw (refer attached image 6). Do I need to do a pre-drills pilot holes at each point before I put a deck screw or else? Please kindly guide how I could avoid cracking or damaging of boards and able to finish off as even and professional finish.
Q4: Do I require any spacer between the two 70mm boards length during installation?
Q5: Do I need any sealer or decking oil or appropriate color to put on the decking board after finishing the installation.
I would highly appreciate your appropriate guidance and any other relevant advices.
Much appreciated. Syed.
The step frame appears to be starting to decay, and I'd suggest that now would be the best time to replace it. Hopefully, the frame in the upper deck section doesn't need replacing. I'd suggest using the same size H3-treated framing timber that is there currently. Joist hangers can be used, or you might like to screw the sections together with treated Pine screws. Given you've experienced this decay, it might be best to paint the underside and sides of the timber with bitumen paint.
To remove the timber frame, I'd recommend cutting it up with a saw, as it would be difficult to remove the joist hangers.
Those screws need to have holes pre-drilled and countersunk, and you can use a pilot drill/counter-sinking bit for that. Alternatively, you can switch to self-drilling decking screws. The Zenith 12G x 50mm Stainless Steel Self Drilling Decking Screws - 500 Pack would likely be the best value for money.
You will need to space your decking boards. Since there has been some decay, I'd go for at least a 5mm gap between them. This slightly larger gap will help provide airflow to the deck structure. These decking spacers will come in handy for keeping the gap consistent.
You need to age the timber, which strips out the Merbau tannins before oiling. I'd recommend leaving the deck to naturally weather for eight weeks or applying a new timber prep solution to accelerate the process. Once the deck has aged or you use the product, you can apply your decking oil.
Please let me know if you have further questions.
Thanks for your great advice.
I am progressing on the project. Last sunday I bought some decking related material from Bunnigs. You have advised me to use Bitumen paint to protect the timber from rain water. I was about to buy your recommended paint and thats is going to cost me ~&20. A guy from Bunnings has advised me that instead of getting smaller container of Bitumen paint in $20, i may purchase a 15L Betta Cemseal & Fix (photo attached) on discounted price of $6. I bought that sealed bucket. After reaching home, I have noticed following even without removing the seal of the bucket. (1) strong smell of solvent (2) felt some thing is settled solid in the bucket. When I tilt the bucket I felt something in a solid form in one piece and that single solid piece moving away from internail surface of the
Bucjet. i am not sure whether i can remove the bucket seal and look inside bucket or just return the bucket to Bunnings and will get Bitumen paint that you have suggested for water proofing.
Please advice me whether i can use Betta Chemseal & Fix from the above reffered bucket instead and whether it is easy to apply on treated timber frames or and concrete (under deck) in comparison to Bitumen paint. Please also let me know whether the material in the bucket is expired or not.
Look forward to hearing from you.
My best advice is to make sure that the timber is totally dry before you apply the bitumen paint. You don't want to trap any residual moisture in the timber as this will only accelerate its deterioration.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.