How to seal gap between Travertine pavers and brick wall?

[geoffr]

We have just had laid new travertine pavers in our courtyard and on the path surrounding the house, and now wondering what to do for where they meet up with the house wall. Should the concrete/sand grout have continued all the way, should we use a silicon, or some other product? Perhaps a sealant that also helps with pest treatment? (There are no gardens or greenery near this edge, only pavers.) Currently when it rains water is collecting in the gap (under which is concrete) up against the house.

Thanks,

Geoff

[JacobZ · Accepted solution]

Hi @geoffr,

Thank you for your question about how to seal the gap between your new pavers and a brick wall.

This gap has been left to allow for expansion and contraction of the materials, so you'll need to treat it like an expansion gap and use a flexible sealant such as Sikaflex 11FC Purform to cover the gap.

Start by cleaning out the gap with a vacuum to remove any loose material.

You can then use Sika 6mm x 50m Abelrod Gap Filler to fill the majority of the gap. This is a weather resistant foam filler that will allow for expansion and contraction and takes up much of the space, reducing the amount of silicone required.

When the Abelrod is in place, use painter's tape to mask off the wall and tiles. Once the bead of silicone has been applied, pulling the tape will create a nice clean line.

Once the tape is in place, apply your bead of Sikaflex 11FC Purform. The aim is to fully cover the gap and create a slight slope away from the wall. You can use one of the scrapers in this Paint Partner 4 Piece Silicone Scraper Set to strike off the silicone. After striking off the silicone, while the silicone is still wet, remove the tape to reveal a nice clean finish.

Let me know what you think and if you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

[geoffr]

Thank you Jacob, much appreciated!

[geoffr]

I'm finally about to start (it's been a long time coming!), and wondering if I need to use any kind of primer before applying the silicon?

Thanks,

Geoff

[JacobZ]

Hi @geoffr,

There's no need for any primer, just give everything a good clean beforehand to ensure there's no dirt or contaminants that will affect the adhesion of the silicone.

Good luck and don't forget to share some pictures of your finished work.

Jacob

[geoffr]

Hi Jacob, in speaking to the assistant at Bunnings today, he thought the Sikaflex Pro+ might be a better product than the Sikaflex 11FC Purform for this job. Do you agree, and/or see any issues with it? I'd like to confirm I'm using the best product for this task.

regards,

Geoff

[EricL]

Hello @geoffr 

The Sika 600ml Sikaflex Pro+ and the Sika 300ml Sikaflex 11FC Purform are both high-quality polyurethane sealants, but they serve slightly different purposes and are formulated with different technologies.
 

Sikaflex Pro+, supplied in a 600ml sausage, is primarily designed for sealing construction and expansion joints in external applications. It performs exceptionally well in movement-heavy environments such as between precast concrete panels, masonry, and facades. This product uses a traditional polyurethane formula with a high movement capability, typically ±25%, and offers excellent elasticity, UV resistance, and durability in harsh weather conditions. It is low in VOCs, making it relatively safe to use on-site, but it still contains conventional isocyanates.
 

In contrast, Sikaflex 11FC Purform, available in a 300ml cartridge, is a multi-purpose sealant and adhesive. It’s suitable for sealing static joints and also for bonding building elements like skirting boards, tiles, and window sills. This product features Sika’s newer Purform polyurethane technology, which is designed with ultra-low isocyanate content for improved health and environmental safety. While it also provides strong performance, its movement accommodation is lower than Pro+, usually ±20% or less, making it more appropriate for static or low-movement joints.
 

In terms of packaging, the Pro+ sausage requires a sausage gun and is better suited for large-scale or professional applications that require continuous application. Meanwhile, the 11FC Purform cartridge fits a standard caulking gun, making it more practical for DIY projects or small repair jobs.

Visually, the Pro+ comes in Dark Grey, ideal for external applications where a darker finish is desired, particularly on modern masonry. The 11FC Purform is Concrete Grey, which better blends into internal concrete finishes or subtle repairs.

In summary, choose Sikaflex Pro+ for large-scale, movement-prone external joints in construction settings. Opt for Sikaflex 11FC Purform for general-purpose sealing and bonding, especially in internal or low-movement areas. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[geoffr]

Thanks Eric for a great answer. While it sounds like the 11FC Purform may be a more robust choice, I've tried a short length of the 'Concrete Grey' and it doesn't look ideal in our residential courtyard application. Is 11FC Purform available in Dark Grey?

It has sun exposure for several hours each day — do you think the Sikaflex Pro+ will hold up? Any idea how long we might expect it to last? (Useful info for both products.)

Thanks,

Geoff

[EricL]

Hello @geoffr, 

It is difficult to estimate its longevity as it will be exposed to various weather conditions. But it would be safe to say that both of these products are rated for outdoor use so UV exposure is accounted for. The Sika 11FC Purform only comes in concrete grey. But the Sika 310ml White Sikaflex Pro+ Polyurethane Sealant - 310ml comes in six colours. Both of these products will provide excellent service.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[geoffr]

One final question on this (hopefully) — I notice the Sikaflex Pro+ can tolerate some moisture during application. I've been waiting for the area to dry out thoroughly, I think we're ready to go today.

However, if the area gets rained on and water gets under the pavers prior to the caulking, will it be trapped if I seal when still moist/wet? Or will the moisture eventually dissipate under the pavers? The earth under the pavers is an old concrete with pebblecraft, approx 30 years old.

I hope that made sense!

thanks,

Geoff