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How to tile over concrete pavers and stabilise pebbles?

Hello there,

I’m planning to redo my stepping pavers and pathway because:

1️⃣The current pavers (400x200mm) are too small for my liking, and I’d prefer larger tiles (600x300mm).

2️⃣The pathway wasn’t laid with landscape fabric, so now the pebbles are sinking into the sand and getting messy.

Here’s the challenge:

The existing pavers are sitting on large concrete blocks (big mortar bases). There are 10 of them, and I really don’t want to remove them all—it feels like a massive job! 😅

Also, each paver is 4–5 cm higher than the one before because my house sits higher than the street. Around the porch, it’s about 40–50 cm above the first paver (closest to the street).

Here are my questions:

1️⃣For the pavers:

Can I place 600x300mm tiles on top of the existing concrete pavers? If so, are there any tips or things I should be careful about? I don’t want the last paver (closest to the front door) to end up higher than the porch—will 4 cm be enough for a 2 cm tile plus mortar?

2️⃣For the pebbles:

How can I stop the pebbles from sinking into the sand?

Do I need to redo the entire pathway by removing all the pebbles, adding new sand and landscape fabric, and then putting the pebbles back? Or is there an easier way to fix this without tearing everything apart?

Thank you in advance for your advice and tips—I really appreciate your help!

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Comments

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @ty2

Normally best to put plastic under the stones first as you already know now.

But you are lifting your paver height a bit, So after we lift the paver height up all the stones will be low any how.

Weak Concrete path no dig soloution

So a quick fix would be spread sand and cement pre mixed concrete onto the old stones and pavers so its 10 mm thick on the stones then wash the old pavers off and medium wash the mixture into the stones This will make a weak concrete path binding the stones together so it will sink less.

Use 10x bags for this for the area shown in photo.. Sand and Cement premix

Height extention for pavers. no lifting solution.

Yes Put the new paver directly on top of the old paver no cement in between ok (The old paver already cemented in place on a pad it is good to add new pavers directly on top.,) I might glue it down with out door builders glue Outdoor liquid nails

Now the new pavers will over hang the old ones so we need to put sand and cement mixed up ready as a wet mortar and placed underneath the over hang so a person walking on the edge wont break it as it is unsupported.

Method

look at the old paver decide how the the new paver will sit on top of the old. I recommend align one edge of old and new together so you only need to cement 3 sides not 4.

Add cement all around the old paver edges Keep top of old paver dry and clean no mortar.

Add liquid nails to the old paver

Lower new paver onto the old and position it to suit squishing the glue and the cement will also squish out the sides using a steel trowel remove excess cement back into bucket and smooth sides of the cement to the new paver egde.

Use a string line to gude the egdes of the new pavers up the path.

After cement sets hard 4 days, Simply add new stones on top to fill hollows.

Have fun

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/46589#Comment_46589

Hi @Jewelleryrescue

Thank you so much for taking the time to share your method and solution! I’m genuinely amazed by your knowledge and experience—it’s an eye-opener for me. I really appreciate your willingness to share such practical advice.

That said, I’m still a bit hesitant about the weak concrete path method because I’ve never done or seen it done before. I’m worried that if I get it wrong, it might be hard to fix. For example:

1️⃣ The concrete might end up being too strong and clump together, which could block drainage on the pathway.

2️⃣ When washing 10 bags of sand and concrete mix, I’m not sure where the washed-off material will go. I’m afraid it could clog the drainage system.

If you have any links to YouTube videos or examples of projects using this method, I’d love to study them first to build my confidence before starting.

Also, regarding the liquid nails to bind the new and old pavers, I noticed the product is often used on timber in the link you provided. Can it also be used with concrete and porcelain tiles? I want to ensure it’ll hold up well in outdoor conditions.

Thanks again for your incredible advice—looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Ty2

Dave-1

Good Evening @ty2

IT may feel like a huge job but break it down into thirds and you may be surpprised at how easy it will be to do.

Trying to put anything over the existing pavers will end up chewing up time and money and long term you will have to fix it. Better to take it back to clean and then start afresh.

I would divide the length of your path into thirds, start at the top and rake your pebbles down to the next third, remove the old pavers and mortar, the mortar probarly be able to be tapped away easy enough if you want to reuse them elsewhere. Once you have removed the pebbles (may need a sieve to throw the rocks against and sift out dirt, ive just used a small piece of small holed mesh) Then you can put down a weed mat (lets water through)

Work out the spacing of your tiles (take a walk down the grass and mark your normal length of stride) then mortar the spots, wet the back of your new pavers and set. Once the mortar has gone off (check the manufactures specs) return the pebbles from the pile you scrapped to start with.

It may be nice to install a fresh edge between the grass and stone before you put the pebbles back.

Whoops 🙂 Almost forgot to welcome you to the community, there are loads of ways to do projects, take a bit from one, two or even three to get what you want 🙂 Nice to have you here!

Dave

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/46607#Comment_46607

Hi @Dave-1

Thank you so much for your detailed response and for welcoming me to the community! I really appreciate the time you took to share your perspective and break down the process—it’s incredibly helpful and gives me a lot of clarity.

I love your idea of dividing the pathway into thirds. It makes the project feel much more manageable and less overwhelming. The suggestion to scrape the pebbles down section by section and sieve out the dirt is brilliant, and I hadn’t thought of reusing mesh for that purpose—it’s such a practical tip!

Thanks

Ty2

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85368#Comment_85368

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @ty2. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about tiling over pavers.

It sounds like you've got some great advice from the community! To follow up, I’d recommend starting with the method that feels most comfortable for you. I suggest breaking the project down into manageable sections, as Dave recommended. This way, you can assess the results step by step and make adjustments if necessary.

Remember to follow the manufacturer's instructions for all products, including the mortar and adhesive, and ensure everything is properly set before proceeding. With a bit of patience and attention to detail, you’ll have a refreshed pathway in no time. Enjoy the process, and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions along the way.

Mitchell

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/107858#Comment_107858

Hi @MitchellMc, @Dave-1 and @Jewelleryrescue ,

I’ve started removing most of the pebbles and have a few questions:

1. How much more of the pebbles do I need to remove?

2. I’m concerned about the large concrete block beneath the ground—it seems quite substantial. It’s at least 25 cm deep and approximately 60 cm wide. Plus they are invery stable and level nicely. Should I go ahead and dig it out?

3. Once I remove the concrete blocks, what should I do with them? Should I arrange for a skip bin to dispose of them?

This is what I want my pathway and skipping stones to look like.

Looking forward to your advice.

Best regards,

Ty2

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85354#Comment_85354

Hi @ty2

Liquid nails bonds just about every type of material out there not just wood.

I respect your concerns are weak concrete path wetting down to sand cement mix wont clog anything and will still let water through as it will crack . Its purpose is to help bind the sinking loose stones together so they dont sink more.

Remember that all was for a low labour solution.

The more ideal solution is the dig the stones and heavy pavers up and lay plastic down and go from there laying the old stones on top of the plastic once the new pavers cemented in. The old, cemented pavers will not sit back into place and will rock around so it will be better to lay new cement for the new pavers.

All that matters is your happy with the finished results 🙂

We would love to see the finish fruit's of your labour 🙂

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121194#Comment_121194

Given the substantial size of the concrete bases, you might like to add more concrete around it and install your new pavers on top. The additional concrete around them supports the edges of the new larger pavers so they don't crack.

You don't need to remove all the gravel, just the bulk of it. You should be fine to add your weed matting or geotextile fabric over the remaining stones.

Mitchell

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129517#Comment_129517

Afternoon @ty2

Man that is a chunky footing to those pavers 🙂 Id almost be tempted to cold chisel the old paver off and reuse the concrete base. Depends on how the surface looks once the paver has been removed. Craftright 2 Piece Cold Chisel Set plus a ball hammer or pound hammer are the tools id use.

I like the idea or scraping back all the pebbles for a clean install. Having the surface smooth before laying down weed mat makes for an easier job with no high points in the ground (left over pebbles) to poke through over time.

Dave

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134785#Comment_134785

Hi @Dave-1 @Jewelleryrescue @MitchellMc

I think I will put the new paver on top the old paver without chisel the old paver off.

1) Do you think 600x400 is too big?

2) Do you think it is necessary to use Bondcrete as primer to bond the porcelain pavers to the old concrete?

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138219#Comment_138219

Evening @ty2

Looks like you have the height to be able to do so, I would suggest to build up around the tile for supporting it as well. As to Bondcrete, I do not know as i have not used it before. I would wait for a recomendation from @MitchellMc as I would be doing the same as you in going through the aisle with bondcrete type products an dreading the packaging 🙂 Its helpfull knowing a bunch of products but better if we have used them ourselves.

Dave

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138219#Comment_138219

@Dave-1 @MitchellMc @Jewelleryrescue

Can I use 10 mm thickness instead of 20mm?

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140516#Comment_140516

@Dave-1 @MitchellMc @Jewelleryrescue

Can I use 10mm instead of 20mm thickness of the new paver?

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140517#Comment_140517

Afternoon @ty2

Are you refering the tile thickness?

Or the masonary mud/glue?

If its the tile thickness I would say you are already on the thin side for structal strength and strongly recommend supporting the whole underside of the tile with a build up of the overall base.

If its the glue/mud then probarally it will be ok.

Dave

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142197#Comment_142197

Hi @ty2,

Similar to what @Dave-1 has said, 10mm is quite thin for a paver. If you build up the base so the pavers are on a solid foundation all around, it should be ok, but if it is overhanging even slightly you risk cracking the paver. Personally, I would use 20mm pavers, but the choice is yours.

As to the use of bondcrete, it won't hurt, but there is no great need for it.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142198#Comment_142198

It is the thickness of the tile

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143390#Comment_143390

Thanks @JacobZ for your feedback

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144297#Comment_144297

Hi @ty2

Path looking good going well 🙂

10 mm tile needs a very solid cement base under the lip/overhang no hollows otherwise one day it will snap in half.

I see in the photos the new tiles on the old pavers I am assuming just as a test look/mounting? If they are glued mounted already you will really need to push the mortar up in under it which is very hard as mortar wants to slump a bit with gravity and will create a hollow. In this case you might need a frame to screw around the mortar after it has being laid and as the screw's tighten up the area shrinks compressing the mortar in and up under the paver edges.

Laying the 10mm tiles a better way

1 Do use outdoor liquid nails on top of the old paver as it will cushion any gaps if any. Bondcrete on its own too thin unless mixed with pure cement powder as a slurry /glue

2 I highly recommend putting concrete mortar around the old paver building up higher than the old paver then placing the new 10mm tile on top. The excess mortar will squish out as you tap the tile down flush with the old paver. Your old paver should be level already so aim for a flush mount.

Any hollows under a 10mm tile can be a future breaking point as @JacobZ likes a 20mm one is better more forgiving.

3 When the mortar squishes out run a trowel around the outside creating smooth sides on your new tile pedestal,

Have fun Stay out the hot sun

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144951#Comment_144951

Hi Guys,

I'm back again with the update. I have now put all the tiles. They are not perfect. The second one from the from door the step is little too high. It was a bit of challenge working on the slop but I will fix it later on.

Now I need to put a new edging strip before puting the pebbles back. Can you please recommend what type of garden edging should I use. I actually like the similar style of what I currently have. It is just a wooden strip. Where can I get it from Bunnings? Can I ask them to cut it for me as I have a small car I think I can do only 2 meter long.

69 x 7mm 5.7m Edging Merbau FJ KD

SpecRite 2m Merbau Tapered Garden Border Roll

Thank you in advance

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145476#Comment_145476

Hi @ty2,

Nice work with the pavers, they look great.

You could use either of the products you've linked to for this project.

The SpecRite 2m Merbau Tapered Garden Border Roll comes in a roll, so there would be no need to have it cut.

You can have the 69 x 7mm 5.7m Edging Merbau FJ KD cut down for transport purposes, making this another good option for you.

There is also this 150 x 25mm 4.8M Rough Sawn Pine which is very similar to your existing garden edge. This can also be cut down for transport purposes.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145880#Comment_145880

@Jewelleryrescue @Dave-1 @MitchellMc @JacobZ

This is a final work. It is not perfect but I have learnt a lot from this project. Thank you for all suggestions and guidance. You guys have helpes this project a lot.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146194#Comment_146194

Morning @ty2

That looks great! 😀 Minimal impact to the surrounding area and you have completed it nicely 🙂

Any pointers you would tell another person doing the same type of project?

Dave

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146194#Comment_146194

Well done @ty2 and many thanks for coming back and sharing the end result.

Please let us know if you need a hand with the next project on the list.

Jason

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146457#Comment_146457

Hi @Dave-1

My steps are on a 7-degree slope, and I recommend anyone with steps on a slope to download an app that measures slope angles. This helps ensure that each step has a consistent slope and is set at an appropriate angle for safety and comfort.

Thanks

Ty2

ty2

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146458#Comment_146458

Hi @Jason ,

I'll definitely be back for my next project.

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