Another low deck over Concrete.
The height from concrete to door threshold is only 120mm, so frame can only be 90x45.
I have seen a lot of details in this forum about the low decks. Most of the discussions talk about MGP10 TP.
My question is what are the other options for the 90x45 TP that can be used for framing this low deck? Would a F5 H3 TP suffice?
I read somewhere the load capacity for F5 and MGP10 is similar, with MPG10 being stiffer. Is that right? What is the difference between F5 and MGP10?
Hi Varun (@arian10daddy),
By the sounds of it, if you have 120mm minus the 90mm framing and the 19mm for decking, you'll still have 11mm for airflow and drainage under the frame. You can use Carinya 40 x 80 x 40 x 5mm Hot Dipped Galvanised Angle Brackets fixed into the concrete and then bolt the Treated Pine Outdoor Timber Framing 90 x 45mm to them. You can use plastic spacers to help establish the 11mm gap.
You could use F5 graded hardwood timber, which might have some benefit over H3 treated pine MGP10 in your application. However, I haven't personally heard of F5 H3 treated pine. H3 treated pine MGP10 is the most commonly used structural grade timber for most exterior projects around the home. F grades indicate the basic working stress (in bending) for hardwood timbers, whilst MGP indicates a minimum threshold for stiffness and is used for softwoods.
Please let me know if you have questions.
Thanks for the response Mitchell.
Everywhere I check, the mgp10 H3 TP is in short supply. They blame it on Covid.
A landscape supplier said he has F5 TP in stock. Since I hadn't heard about it as well, I am a bit confused on it too.
Maybe others in this forum might share their experience on this grade of Treated Pine.
After further investigation, it appears the F grade system is sometimes applied to softwoods like pine as well. It sounds like what you can get your hands on would be suitable, but I would encourage you to have a visual inspection of the timber first to check if there are limited knots and no significant twisting or bowing.
I'll reach out via private message to get details of your location to check with our stores for available H3 MGP10 stock for you.
I thought I'll show a little more of the plan I've made, and gain some knowledge from everybody's experience.
I'm thinking of a 3600x4000mm deck using 90x45 F5 H3 TP and 90x19 Merbau which will run from left to right in the above pic, and will be picture framed (I love it un-framed but the Mrs. wants it framed).
The joists are at almost every 300-350mm, and should have a noggin every 1000mm. The 400x400 pillar with a circular downpipe will not be picture framed.
The window packers will run under each joist at 800mm on the afresco, and maybe 3 L-brackets every length. I will use the 100x75 offcuts I have from 200x75 H4 sleepers to make posts over the concrete pathway. I will paint those posts with the black tar paint at the bottom where it touches the concrete. The posts will in a similar pattern as the window packers.
To connect the frame together I'll use joist hangers and L brackets.
A few questions:
1. To connect the frame together using joist hangers and L brackets, should I use galv. nails or galv. screws?
2. What would be the best way to connect the posts to the frame?
3. I won't be screwing the posts to the concrete pathway. I'll only connect the frame to the alfresco concrete. Is that sufficient enough?
4. Any other insights?
Hi @arian10daddy ! It looks like your plans are well underway.
We vote for picture framing also!
We can share with you a little bit about our experience to help you make a decision on some of those things you have questions about. There are probably a million of different ways you can do it though.
1. We started to use nails on our joist straps, but because we didn't have a nail gun we found it took too long. So we switched half way to galv screws. These are the ones we used: https://www.bunnings.com.au/otter-12g-x-25mm-matt-black-class-3-hex-head-screws-150-pack_p0162366 The screws also made it much easier to make any minor adjustments after attaching the joists and bearers if needed.
2. We used Galv Bolts to attach our frame to posts.
3. I would think that attaching the posts just to your framework which is secured to the alfresco concrete is sufficient enough to stabilise the step, is there any particular reason you do not wish to attach it to the concrete pathway?
Good luck with the build!
I was not able to find the otter he head screws @DIYgals mentioned, and the ones I found were pretty expensive. I got my hands on some of the button head galvanised "stitching screws" with #2 Phillips head. I wonder if these would work to attach the joist hangers. Weird enough, I wasn't able to find these in Bunnings website.
I also bought 75mm external timber screws to join 2 90x45 boards together where needed, as well as screwing boards at right angle where joist hangers can't be used. I hope that works out too. (fingers crossed)
I also got the joist hangers and the big pack of window packers.
Its Good Friday tomorrow and everything will be closed. So I think at least that I am all set to build the frame.
As far as attaching it to the concrete, I'll work on that later in the week. While we're on that topic, I remember some discussions here that talked about using the plastic spegetti and screws to fix the L-brackets down into the concrete. I am wondering what kind of screws could have been used in those cases?
If using dynabolts, I'm looking at about $2-$3 per dynabolt. Wondering about a more cost effective alternative.
It's great to see you are well on your way to a new deck, Varun (@arian10daddy).
Those screws look like they will be fine for attaching the joist hangers. The 75mm screws will only have 30mm penetrating the timber piece you are joining once they've gone through the 45mm thick joist. I'd recommend you drive them in past the surface, so they penetrate a little deeper.
I can't wait to see your deck taking shape. Ensure you take plenty of photos during construction as our other members will find them very beneficial and of great inspiration.
Thought I'll give an update on the progress.
Frame is all built, but its yet to be made flat with all the shims. I'm thinking some bricklayers thread and a level and a lot of patience should do the trick.
For the screws to be used on merbau over H3 pine frame, what is the preferred option with people in this forum? Stainless steel or the buildex climacoat? Neither is a match with the merbau wood color. Do you folks like screws to stand out or blend in? Square drive or torx drive? 10g vs 8g? 50mm vs 65mm? Standard head vs trim head? More options = more confusion!