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Hi,
I’m building a deck on my alfresco, which is extended few mitres in the lawn area too. The size of the deck is 4.5 x 4.2m. Alfresco area covers the length of 3m and remaining 1.2m is in the lawn area. It’s a low level deck as the max height I can go is around 160mm. I’m using 11x90x45mm joist across 4.5m, with side boards(90x45mm) covers all the edges of the rectangle, these are screwed together using baton screws(75mm). Joist are sitting on the pedestal( Buzon, which can bear more than 1000kg), each joist are sitting on 5 pedestals, 30cm from both side and 3 in the middle spaced evenly. 3 Pedestals are sitting on the concrete Alfresco, 2 pedestals are in lawn area and sitting on the bricks, these bricks are laid on concrete which I freshly did for this project.
I got few questions and need help from the DIY community:
1) At the moment deck is very stable. But do I need to fix few joists in alfresco area to the concrete using L brackets to avoid any movements in deck in future.
2) Do I need to put a post in the lawn area, may be 3, and fix the edge 90x45mm frame using as a bearer to give more support to the joists, these joists are already connected to it using baton screws.
3) any other suggestions
Hello @siran
I'm sorry, but it is the nature of wood to turn and bow. I suggest a combination of Grunt 25mm x 3m Ratchet Tie Down Straps - 4 Pack and Clamps to persuade the timber decking to fit into position. I suggest placing one of the bowed pieces every so often on the run and not right next to each other. You'll then be able to space and straighten that piece next to one that is actually straight. There should be no issues in the future once the bowed piece has been secured to the frame. In time the forces applied by the screws and the exposure to the elements will straighten the panel out.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please don't hesitate to post them.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi Eric,
Im almost completing the project. I have concern on the merbau panel bought from Bunnings. These panels are pre oiled, but after 2 days rain, panels are faded. What should I do for durability.
Further, I’m planning to install fascia boards, I’m not sure which boards to use considering the airflow underneath the deck. I hope I need to have some clearance between deck fascia board and ground.
thanks,
siran
Hi @siran,
Your Merbau boards are pre-oiled to get from the manufacturer to you. What you see here is part of the weathering process before applying your oil to the deck. This is a good thing. You can either wait 6-8 weeks for the natural weathering process to complete, which strips the tannins from the timber or use Cabot's 2L New Timber Prep to accelerate the process. Once this weathering is complete, you'll apply two coats of Merbau decking oil.
I'm a few weeks ahead of you in the process, and my deck had been weathered for four weeks, and then I used the new deck prep as I didn't want to wait any longer. I've just applied my first coat of actual decking oil, and it looks fantastic. My deck looked exactly like yours after I'd first laid it due to all the rain we've been experiencing in Sydney.
You usually use a board slightly wider than your frame for the facia board. For a 90mm frame, you'd use a 140mm board.
Please let me know if you have further questions.
Mitchell
Thanks, finally the work is completed. Only stain and oil are pending.
Hello @siran
What a beautifully built deck. Thank you so much for sharing your photos from the frame up to the deck panel installation. I'm sure this project will inspire a lot of our members to give this project a go. Now that it is built, would you have done anything differently in hindsight? What would your number one tip be to our members who might want to replicate your project?
Again, thank you so much for taking us along your D.I.Y. low-level deck journey.
We look forward to seeing your next project.
Eric
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @chrislcoss. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about deck footers.
Typically these adjustable pedestal feet just need to be placed on a compacted surface and no actual footer is required. To spread the load, you might like to place a paver under them, or in @siran's project, it appears they've poured some concrete and bedded bricks into it. Hopefully, now that I've tagged them, they'll be able to let us know whether they created a full-depth footer.
Depending on the soil in your area, it might be worth touching base with your local council to find out whether significant footers are required to offset instability.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
