How to add framing around window on bricks?

I would like to renovate my “rumpus room” which was already converted from the garage by previous owner.

It appears the plasterboard has just been applied directly to the brick- and there is double brick in places.

i would like a smooth, flush look from floor to ceiling and intend to run a stud wall along the front, and insulate the recessed area. However how do I deal with the big gap between a stud frame and the window (which sits directly on the bricks)?

Would it make sense to frame the recessed area first- creating a almost a sill for the window- and then attaching plasterboard over the stud and recessed frame for a smooth finish (i acknowledge it will be a deep window- but I can hide with shutters etc).

Does anyone have any other ideas?

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Comments

MitchellMc

Hi @MackaQLD,

It sounds like you're on the right track. A sill is required to cover over the top of the framing. I've created a couple of renderings to illustrate.

If insulating the area wasn't too much of a concern, you could use this depth to create a bookshelf. Let me tag @Dave-1 and @Nailbag to see if they have any other ideas.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Afternoon @MackaQLD

Well 😀 Strangley here is one I prepared earlier....

Garage lining for stud walls stage 1

Garage lining for stud walls stage 2 (Cornice and skirting boards)

I like @MitchellMc 's sill suggestion. I only had a small area fro sills next to the side door but if I had a window at half height for sure Id want a solid sill.

Things to note if you frame up the area. The floor slopes in a garage generally. So one side of the frame may be a differant height to the other. Anything long and straight may look a little odd if its at floor level. And the last one I can think of is fix/seal the brick work with waterproofing paint.

Oh and sketch up where your frames and pillars are so you can go back and say "yep" the frame is here!

If you go through my bookmarks you will see how the actuall room was fitted out 🙂

Dave

MackaQLD

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/44799#Comment_44799

Thanks @MitchellMc and @Dave-1 for your help and perspectives. Dave, your framing project is great to read through and is an inspiration.

I like the idea of the bookshelves and have thought about it before- but I’m trying to sound treat the space so I think insulation here as well as in the proposed full stud wall in front makes sense.

I’m a novice so building a frame in the recesses (i have 3) will be good training before the stud wall. Before framing the recess should I remove the existing plasterboard to expose the brick, or retain? And what is the best way to affix the framing to the brick.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/84522#Comment_84522

Good Evening @MackaQLD

Thank you 🙂 and I have been following a sound insulation mob in the Big Blue F social media land 🙂 They are called Dura panel and the product looks good for a range of uses.

Id probarly remove anything that is place before a new install. That way you know that the are is as new/clean as it should be and you are not inheriting any issues. For every job I start, I have to peel back several layers of Dodgy bro Inc installs 🙂

From memory I fixed the top and bottom rails to the timber beams and concrete floor, that way I didnt have to worry about blowing out bricks and causeing more headaches. I used concrete screws that a Bunnings salesperson put me onto and seriously they are the easiest thing to use. Just make sure the hole you drill is deep enough and also empty of concrete dust 🙂

I had never done any wall framing before hand, but found it pretty easy. A few mistakes of course (sloping floor and all) but really for the price of some framing timber it was a great way to learn 🙂 There are plenty of us in here that can give you different view points and ways to do something. One way dosnt mean that its the only way 🙂

With the plaster going on remember that I lined mine up with the edge of the brick pillars, that way I could use the goop (plaster glue as I call it) straight on the brick and the frame to secure it before screwing in holding screws.

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @MackaQLD

I was about to make a few suggestions and then saw @MitchellMc design ideas, which are fantastic. Especially making use of the cavity for a bookshelf. You could have the actual shelves sticking out slightly from being flush to the wall for extra depth which I think would link great.

Nailbag

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/84522#Comment_84522

Hi @MackaQLD,

Provided you can fix your studs securely through the plasterboard into the brickwork with Dynabolts, I see no reason to remove the plasterboard from the cavity. If you try to pull it out, you risk damaging the corners and sheets on either side, which you are keeping.

MItchell

MackaQLD

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/107293#Comment_107293

Thanks Mitchell!

MackaQLD

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/107288#Comment_107288

Thanks Dave!

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