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How to drill through dense concrete?

Hi! I’m new to home improvement and have tried to install some curtains in my unit! I have successfully drilled into the concrete wall on one side using a RYOBI hammer drill, but on the other side, I meet resistance after about 10mm. I persisted for hours (drilling pilot holes, enlargening and allowing the drill bits to cool down in between), and still can only get about 25mm deep. In a moment of defeat, I installed the anchor and curtains in the too-shallow hole and tried to secure them with spakfilla, only for the curtains to fall down (unsurprisingly) The masonry anchors I am using require 40mm deep holes.

I have drilled so many holes in this area at this point (and learned how to fill them), but meet resistance and very time!

I am using RYOBI masonry hammer drill bits, but have reached the limit of my knowledge.

Should I buy an expensive stud finder that works on concrete walls? Should I just use masonry wall anchors that only go 25mm deep, and will that be enough? It has to hold two layers of curtains, one sheer and one black out so a few kg.

Hoping some pros can help me! Thank you in advance!

P.S. ignore the mismatched paint, that is a result of a failed colour match from a previous Bunnings trip!

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Comments

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @georgiaob4

There are a few reasons you might be having troubles. So lets explore the options.

Good to see you looking after heat issues for the drill bits it will help them last longer.

The time to consider how hot they are getting is during the drilling process. If they are smoking hot or turning black, they are generally over heated and cooked. Drill bits need to not over heat while drilling, Eg drilling steel I always oil the drill bit and hole frequently it cools the drill bit. Concrete shorter drill periods,

Its good your considering the use of pilot holes but generally that is not usefull for concrete walls more steel and wood etc

I would go for heavy duty drill bits Kango or sutton as examples of the more robust brands things like craftright will bearly do two holes and the price is an indicator there. Ryobi is to my experiance a mid range preformer and should last more than two holes.

1 I would use a Rotary hammer drill as it is 10x more powerfull for concrete drilling Vs a regular drill with a hammer function I one a High powered metabol drill and hammer drill function it takes seriously a lot of effort to drill into concrete on hammer drill function. Then I bought a Ozito 1500W Rotary Hammer drill and it drills into the same hard concrete like its butter. Bucause the drilling speed is so quick the drill bit dosent heat up too hot and lasts longer too.

It sounds like you are struggling with a drill with hammer function.? As it is drilling at a snail's pace and this will overheat the drill bit and cause it to reduce its effectiveness,

So ideally use quality drill bits, with a rotary hammer drill to make light work of your projects Ideally as us DIYers dont need the extra stress

Optionally to having to fork out money for a $100 hammer drill (Note hammer drills require specific types of drill bits to fit them so it is the cost of 1 drill bit too)

Optionally

I might consider using high strength araldite

To fix your anchors and fittings into the shallower hole but use your hammer drill to clean out the spak filler first.

Sorry you are having troubles hope this helps some

EricL

Hello @georgiaob4

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about drilling into masonry.

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Jewelleryrescue. I definitely agree that using quality drill bits such as Kango or Sutton are one of the main keys to drilling through masonry. The other one is getting a really good drill. Drilling through brick and aerated concrete is quite often not that difficult but going through solid concrete can sometimes pose a challenge. A corded drill such as the Ryobi 1500W SDS+ Rotary Hammer Drill RSDS1500-K will make short work of that drilling issue.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @georgiaob4

The advice that has been offered is sound. But in reality it's going to cost you $100's just to drill a few holes in masonry. And stud finders don't work in your sceneario. As simple as your requirement is, it still requires expensive tools and accessories you may never or hardly ever use again, So, my advice would be to consider hiring a handyman to install the curtains. Having installed curtains and blinds in many scenarios, there will be more specially tools and/or knowledgerequired.

Nailbag

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/48870#Comment_48870

Good Evening @georgiaob4

When I was going through your description and especially after you said your first holes on the far side went easily I am thinking two things.

If your wall is a solid concrete wall you may have been unlucky enough to hit reo or you have hit a lintel of some sort that is within the concrete. I suspect reo. Did you notice any fine metal shaving clinging to the tip of your masonary drill bit?

If you have hit metal then I would suggest to move the hole 130mm away from the previous hole (think of reo as possibly square and it could be 100mm square or 120mm square) I wouldnt go less as it gives higher chance of cracking near the existing hole.

I would not suggest to drill through reo 🙂 Ive tried and the hole ended up looking like a D, I did manage to drill the hole but wasnt happy with it. Reo is hardened steel and rounded so its a nope.

Dave

georgiaob4

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/86519#Comment_86519

Thank you so much @Dave-1 @Jewelleryrescue @Nailbag @EricL for your help and suggestions! I bought a Diablo masonry hammer drill bit and used it in my RYOBI drill on the hammer setting, and while it did make a tiny bit of progress, it was still not going smoothly. I haven’t noticed any metal shavings, so not positive if it is reo or just really dense concrete! It is an external wall with bricks on the other side if that helps, but as stated, so was where I drilled the other hole and that was super easy.

All of my walls (including internal walls) are concrete, so I’m wondering whether I should just get the hammer drill you guys suggested as I do have plans to install some shelving and would like the freedom to be able to do this. Might just be a good long term investment? Let me know what you think, and thank you so much for the advice you have given me! I am learning a lot!

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108703#Comment_108703

Hi @georgiaob4

If you see yourself needing a high-speed corded drill for other projects in the near future, then it would be worth investing in that tool.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121653#Comment_121653

Evening @georgiaob4

My first drill was a corded hammer drill, and mostly in the early part it was used for drilling concrete and brick. I think its a handy drill to have long term as I find them having more torque then battery versions. I have both types of drills now as sometimes its been easier for a battery drill and others I wanted that oomph.

Dave

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108703#Comment_108703

Hi @georgiaob4

Long term if you have lost of masonry drilling to do, the best type of drill will definitely be an SDS+ drill. They are about 3X more efficient with less effort. I would also recommend 4-cut drill bits as they have the capacity to drill through metal reo and maintain a very accurate and clean hole. Expensive but last for years!

Nailbag

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121654#Comment_121654

Hi @georgiaob4

I agree with @Nailbag

A Rotary Hammer drill far exceeds the performance of a standard powerful even corded drill with hammer function.

As a bonus a rotary hammer drill can be used with a chisel bit strong enough to break concrete or chisel tiles off etc

It doesn't need to be super pricey either

I bought an Ozito 1500w Rotary Hammer drill for $100 and it drills and does every thing you need with ease. It won't run all day it heats up after an hour or so but it gets all my jobs done with ease. I don't recommend the drill bits that come with it so do invest in 4 cut drill bits like @Nailbag meantions It uses SDS+ drill bits and accessories.

I great investment if you just starting out on fixing up things around your house. Use it 4 times and it's paid for itself in convenience.

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108703#Comment_108703

Hi @georgiaob4

I 2nd that recommendation by @Jewelleryrescue on not needing to spend a lot of money on an SDS+ / Pneumatic Hammer drill. FYI: The SDS+ refers to the accessory fitment type. That Ozito model also comes with a range of both drill bits and chiselling (stop rotation hammer mode). The drill also has a 3rd mode, for standard drilling without hammer action. Despite its size and power, this mode in SDS drills are not high-torque. So typically not suitable for things like auger bits and hole-saws, but fine for normal drill bits and spade. Being a corded drill, its important not to stall the motor when drilling as they don't have any electronic protection.

The drill bits supplied are 2-cut not 4-cut. The main difference is the holes aren't as clean and round. 4-cut is better when drilling for smaller diameter fasteners and don't walk off the mark when starting a hole. But make for a great cost saving start.

Though there are 2-cut that can drill through reo, the ones supplied can't. So again you may need a 4-cut which easily can.

Nailbag

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