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How to enclose an outdoor patio?

We have a patio, three of its walls side is open. The roof is polycarbonate. The floor is decking.

We would like to enclose it to make it more usable year round. The intention is a low cost project as the house will be demolished down the track.

Current plans are:

Enclose the open side: Louvre windows, external door, overlap existing pickets on bottom to enclose.

Seeking suggestions on flooring options? We have thought about plyboard or vinyl flooring over existing deck.

My concern however is what moisture barrier would we need between decking and new floor? What floor type is suitable over existing deck?

There will be a split system for heating/cooling.

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Decking and Paving

Building and Construction

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Comments

JacobZ

Hi @Rusty195,

Thank you for your question about enclosing your patio and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community.

In circumstances where an extension like this is intended to be permanent, it is definitely worth checking the requirements for building approval with your local council. As this is not intended to be permanent, just functional until the time of demolition, this is likely not necessary.

My first question about this project is how well does the polycarbonate roofing keep the rain out? Installing a wall on the open side of the patio will stop driving rain from getting in, but if there are any issues with water ingress from above, it would need to be addressed first.

The risk of damage from rising moisture is negligible. it looks like the patio is raised on posts, so there would not be a need for a moisture barrier on the floor. The crawl space beneath the patio allows for air movement that will dry out underneath the property.

My suggestion would be to install STRUCTAflor YellowTongue as a substrate for your choice of flooring. This could be installed directly over the decking boards by locating the joists and screwing the YellowTongue into the joists through the decking.

My suggestion for enclosing the wall is to remove the balustrade and install framing timber between the posts that allow for the louvres. You can then clad the outside and install insulation and plasterboard to create a functional, non-structural wall. To fully enclose the structure, you should then add an eave sheet to the underside of the roof structure on the outside of the new wall.

You might like to check out How To Build a Stud Wall for some guidance on the construction of the wall.

Allow me to tag some of our helpful members to see if they have any ideas to add: @Dave-1, @Noyade, @TedBear, @Nailbag, @DIYGnome.

This is a great project that I am excited to see get underway. Let me know if there's anything else I can assist with moving forward.

Jacob

Dave-1

Afternoon @Rusty195

I like your idea of the louvre windows, they would look great! My suggestions where going to be less then @JacobZ 's but really prefer his ideas, especially replacing the handrail with a stud wall incorporating the louvre windows. Flooring I agree whole heaqrtedly with Jacob.

Depending on how you want to use the room are you thinking of replacing the alsonite roof? The heat in an enclosed room with the alsonite will possibly be high so I would factor that in for usability.

I would like to offer a warm hello and welcome to the Bunnings community 🙂 I am sure you will find lots of projects in here that are interesting. Would love to see some pics of the area as you work through your list! (never too many photos and they will help you down the track when you ask that question, What did I do behind that plaster? 🙂

Dave

Rusty195

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/38048#Comment_38048

Thanks Dave and Jacob.

The room will be used as an occasional living space/zone for guests.

Alsonite roof does not leak and will stay for the time being. I will put up foilboards if the summer heat gets too much.

Should I put down a vapour barrier for good measure over the decking before the yellow tounge goes down? Any suggestions on product?

To begin we may just paint the yellow tounge and use floor rugs. Could I lay the yellow tounge in reverse so I don't need to sand the wax coating prior to paint?

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/81244#Comment_81244

Evening @Rusty195

Mmmm Id follow @JacobZ's recomendations about no barrier needed. As for reversing the board or sanding it Id say a no. The wax probarly helps the boards properties so I wouldnt be removing it. Maybe lay some lino or the false floorboards over it? Painting it the right way up would be a good starting point. (My childhood kitchen was jast a varnish over it for years before we could afford lino)

Dave

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/81244#Comment_81244

Hi @Rusty195,

It can't hurt to add a vapour barrier, but it's not really necessary.

Is your concern about moisture? Or insulating the area?

Typically, a vapour barrier is used under flooring materials in direct contact with concrete. As there is an air gap beneath the flooring, and this will allow any trapped water to dry out, there is no real need.

Unfortunately, the yellow tongue has a waxy coating on both the top and bottom face, so if you wanted to paint it, some sanding would be necessary. You might like to look at our For Hire: Floor Sander offering as an option to speed up the sanding process.

Or you could look at some of our reasonably priced Flooring & Tiles as options that won't require sanding.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Nailbag

Hi @Rusty195 I think @JacobZ suggestion using yellow-tongue is going to give you the best and most economical solid floor solution and won't require any moisture barrier for this application. His suggestion of carpet tiles is also a great easy solution adding both insulation properties, but more importantly sound deadening.

You mention this is to be a temp living space as the house will eventually be demolished. In which case I think you will find Louvre windows to be probably the most expensive option available. As an example an 800mm (W) x 1050mm (H) aluminium framed one 3 years ago was going to cost over $1,000 and that was a cheap price. I scrubbed the idea. I would be considering the 2nd hand market for either awning or better yet, sliding window options. A sliding aluminium door for the entrance would also be my suggestion. The 2nd market is littered with a range of sizes. Just make sure you get ones with the reveals (timber frame around the aluminium ones). These will all be very easy to install and frame and clad around and all very economically.

Regards, Nailbag

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