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Hi Bunnings Community,
I’m having trouble with some uneven surfaces on the architraves in my flat. I’ve tried paint stripper, scraping and sanding, and it has turned into a bit of a mess. I can’t continue sanding because the old paint contains lead, and even with a mask I’m worried I might be exposing myself to dust.
At this point, some areas are back to bare timber, others still have paint, and there are multiple layers visible. The whole surface is patchy and bumpy.
As a solution, I was thinking of sealing the entire architrave with Peel Stop or Dulux Sealer Binder, then applying an undercoat in two stages — first spot-priming the bare timber, then doing a full undercoat over everything. Finally, two coats of topcoat.
Is this a good approach?
Any other suggestions for dealing with the uneven surface? Also, what undercoat would you recommend?
Thanks!
Hi @maro,
It really depends on how uneven the surface actually feels rather than how patchy it looks. Patchiness on its own is not a problem. What matters is whether there are noticeable height differences between the layers. If you close your eyes and run your fingers across the worst spots, can you feel a step between the bare timber and the remaining paint, or is it just a change in texture? If the transitions feel smooth and the old paint is firmly bonded, you are already most of the way there.
You seem to have sanded the area back quite thoroughly. Given the concerns about lead dust, it makes sense to avoid any more aggressive sanding. In this situation, there is not much benefit in using something like Peel Stop. Peel Stop is designed to bind down failing, chalky or flaking surfaces, and if your remaining paint is sound, it is not going to add anything. A standard Dulux 1step primer is all you need at this stage.
A practical way forward is to take the architrave that currently looks the most even, give it one full coat of primer, allow it to dry, and then assess it. Primer will unify the colour and make any remaining imperfections far easier to identify than when everything is still in mixed tones of timber and old paint. Once you have a primer layer in place, you can make a more confident decision about whether any light touch-up sanding is required, and even that can be done very gently.
You may find that the work you have already done is more than enough. Once you build up a couple of coats of undercoat and your final topcoats, minor transitions tend to disappear completely.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
You might like to try a UNi-PRO Professional 50mm Tungsten Carbide Precision Scraper on the areas that are flaky. Scrape back to well-bound paint. When dealing with lead-based paints, it's always best to scrape rather than sand. Remember your PPE, including a suitable face mask, safety glasses, gloves and disposable overalls.
Mitchell
hi again @MitchellMc Sorry to bother you again,. I just wanted to show you some pictures of the results of my scraping because I’m still struggling. If you look at it closely especially in the crevices, it is all still very bumpy and flaky, I keep scraping but it doesn’t make it any smoother. I also used a detail sander (ryobi) but it’s hard to get some bits smooth. Would it be possible to put some peel stop over this followed by a couple of coats of undercoat, then topcoat? Or do you think it’s too bumpy and the result will be uneven?
I also noticed that the paint in the crevice between the architrave and the jamb seems very gooey and gummy. Would you say that that’s because this is the bathroom door and it’s got moisture in it? Now that I’ve pulled out that paint, there now is a visible gap between the jamb and the architrave, and between the jamb and the stop, it looks like long vertical gaps. Will I need to fill that with wood filler? or will it be okay to just paint over it?
also regarding paint, I got some Dulux one step prep as the undercoat and Porters Aqua Marine water based enamel for the topcoat. But I was thinking does the bathroom door need a different kind of paint, something specially formulated for wet areas?
thank you
Maria
I also noticed that the paint in the crevice between the architrave and the jam when I try to scrape it out, it seems very gooey and gummy. Would you say that that’s because this is the bathroom door and it’s got moisture in it? Because I’ve pulled out that paint, there now is a visible gap between the jamb and the architrave, and between the jamb and the stop, it looks like big vertical gaps. Will I need to fill that with wood filler? or will it be okay to just paint over it?
also regarding paint, I got some Dulux one step prep as the undercoat porters Aqua Sutton water based enamel for the topcoat. But I was thinking do I need some special Bathroom enamel paint for the bathroom door instead?
thank you
Maria
(apologies for mistakes. I’m using voice to text)
Hello @maro
I propose using sandpaper with a lower grit such as 140mm up to 180grit and finishing off the surface with a 240girt sandpaper. I recommend using a detail sander in order to get a flat level finish. If the gap is quite large it would be best fill it with timber filler. I often recommend using Dulux 1L Aquanamel Semi Gloss White Enamel Paint for doors and trims. But since you are using an enamel-based paint for the door it will work just as well.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
A professional painter likely wouldn't go to the extent you have, @maro. They would sand and feather any obvious distortions and paint over. As you've mentioned, the amount of labour involved in fully restoring the door is extensive.
My advice would still be to prime the frame and then work on the areas that stand out and need more work. Coats of primer and paint hide many of these small defects. Without at least priming, you don't really get an idea of what will be covered and what won't.
Mitchell
