How to refresh spotted gum internal stairs?

[vevecase]

I had new spotted gum stairs installed about 5 years ago.  The treads look like they needs a little oil as they are starting to look a touch dry.  I believe they were treated with a water based finish.  

Struggling to find a product, as they don't need a full strip or sand.  I need something that will keep it safe as they are stairs, but some of the products I've found state they are not good for spotted gum as it's a high oil wood.

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @vevecase. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about coating stairs.

To give the best advice, we'd really need to know what was originally applied to your spotted gum treads — whether it was just an oil or a water-based protective coating like a polyurethane. If you’re able to post some pictures of the stairs, including close-ups of any worn sections, it would really help us try to identify the existing finish. Let me know if you need a hand uploading them.

If the coating is simply looking lighter or a bit dry, it might just be an oil that's drying out and needing a top-up. But if you’re seeing any signs of the coating chipping, peeling, or physically wearing through, it’s more likely that a water-based polyurethane or similar was used. Unfortunately, oils and polyurethane finishes aren’t compatible with each other, so it's important we work out exactly what’s on there first. Otherwise, you'd be looking at a full sand back before recoating.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell
 

[vevecase]

  

[vevecase]

Thanks Mitchell . Some photos are now uploaded.  There are very minor wear marks. They just feel quite dry and I don't want them to start to get any cracking. There is no chipping or peeling

[MitchellMc]

There doesn't appear to be any film layer on the steps, so they were potentially just oiled and not coated @vevecase. One thing to keep in mind is that some water-based polyurethane or varnish coatings, especially matt or satin finishes, can closely mimic the look of an oil. That can make it a little tricky to tell what was originally applied just by looking.

If you're unsure, and since you mentioned the stairs feel dry but aren’t damaged, I’d recommend doing a simple water droplet test: place a few drops of water on the surface. If the water beads up, it suggests there’s still a sealed coating like polyurethane in place. If it soaks in fairly quickly, it could point to an oil-based finish that’s dried out.

If it turns out to be a water-based polyurethane, then lightly sanding with a fine abrasive pad (just enough to scuff the surface) and recoating with a compatible water-based product like Cabot's CFP Water Based Clear would be the way to go. If it’s oil, you could refresh with a compatible oil, but we'd just want to confirm first to avoid any adhesion issues.

You might like to also do a test section with the Cabot's CFP. Apply it to a small section in an inconspicuous location. Allow it to dry for 24 hours. Place clear tape across it and press it firmly onto the coating. Rip the tape back off quickly. If the coating stays in place, it's a good sign that you should be fine to coat the rest of the stairs.

Mitchell