How to replace old weatherboards and insulate wall?

[tomgg]

Hi, we need to replace old rotting weatherboards on an external wall, approximately. 3.6 x 3.3 m coverage. It faces east and gets morning sun, with a bathroom and laundry on the other side. Looking for any suggestions / advice about:

1)  replacement boards, particularly if anyone has experience and advice about Weathertex selflok texwood panels? The seem to be about half the thickness of existing old weatherboards, but the lengths would nicely fit and avoid having to join boards.

2) any advice about installing wall insulation, and other materials needing to be installed underneath the weatherboards.

Thanks in advance.
Tom.

[EricL]

Hello @tomgg 

In order to give our members a better idea of the wall location and its current status, would it possible for you post a few photos of the wall? Once our members see it, we'll be able to offer recommendations in regards to the weatherboard replacement. I recommend having a look at the Selflok Weatherboards Installation Manual | Weathertex. There is a great amount of detail in regards to its installation (includes insulation), it also shows you the product range of the Weathertex. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[tomgg]

Thanks Eric. Not sure if this photo helps much, other than to show the size of the job (approx. 3.6 m wide and 3.3 tall). I am pretty much settled on the weathertex selflok texwood option. Many of the existing boards are rotting, although not terribly, and many with filler already. The existing old timber weatherboards (not treated pine) are almost twice as thick as the weathertex boards which are only 9.5 mm. I guess this may pose a problem when joining with the board section at the top, and look at bit odd down the sides against the corner frame? 

If people think we are overdoing it and should just replace a few boards, and cut out and replace sections of some, that could also be good and certainly more affordable. A few boards have pushed out along the bottom edge, and when trying to hit them back up and in, with a view to getting them flat and straight to sand, fill, and re-paint, the rot soon appeared and they couldn't be hit back into place.

The tape and plastic are just to cover some existing gaps in case of rain.

[EricL]

Hello @tomgg 

Thank you for sharing that photo of the wall you need to repair. If you've settled on the Weathertex selflok texwood option, then all you need now is to choose which style. I would recommend a full replacement if it fits within the budget. I suggest having a look at the installation manual in regards to joining onto other materials or if a gap should be encountered.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[tomgg]

Thanks again for the advice. We have removed most boards (leaving some at the top in place, put in wall insulation and wall wrap, but decided to go for matching "rusticated" weatherboards (not yet delivered). Is there any advice or good DIY videos on how to install these weatherboards? Can we start from the top (slotting in to the existing board and working down)?

Any advice much appreciated,
Tom.

 

[EricL]

Hello @tomgg 

According to the Linea weatherboard Installation Guide it advises to start at the bottom. I also suggest having a look at this guide - How To Replace Rotten Weatherboards.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Afternoon @tomgg 

As someone who really likes the look and styling of weatherboards this product looks pretty good (havnt held it to see how it feels lol)

I also havnt installed any as yet but have just been going through the install guide that @EricL linked. Its really seems to cover all your questions nicely and I cant think of anything I can add.

And yeah I saw that it starts the install from the bottom on one of their plates.

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @tomgg 

Hopefully you're using the same height and profile weatherboards. In which case mark each end where the side wall boards finish.

You need to start at the bottom and work your way up. I have a brad gun that I use to pin each row in place, then I pre-drill the top board through the overlapping board at each stud and hand nail 50-60mm bullet head galvanised nails to fix. If you're using timber boards, then each exposed end must be primed. This includes adjoining cuts.

Next is to nail punch each one, fill the indents and prime coat the boards if not already before painting with colour.

Nailbag