Will a non-mortise door hinge work on an external door?

[BoeingFan]

Hi All, 

I'm looking to replace our old timber door in about a month, and I have a few questions, but first, spec's of the current door are:

• Maximum width is 45mm
• Height is 1960mm
• Width is 790mm

I believe the 'best value' solid core door Bunnings have is the Hume 2040 x 820 x 35mm External Door Duracote Flush STPC. The reason I am thinking of the solid core is because I will have to take the circular saw to it to make it the dimensions I need. Would you agree?

Next, hinges. I do not own a router, and I don't trust myself to finesse a hinge rebate, so I am thinking of non-mortise hinges, such as the Lane 100mm Black Matte Easy Fit Hinge - 2 Pack. Are these suitable to use on a front door? I note the description say, "...used primarily on internal doors" so I'm wondering how much weight 'primarily' carries. What does this imply, and will they work or are they not suited to an external door? I did buy the Ryobi Door Hinge Kit in preparation for having to buy a trim router. Finally, if you look at the hinges in the photo's, do you see any issue with switching to modern door hinges? I probably should note that I don't understand the difference between the fixed pin, loose pin, and removable pin hinges.

Lastly, I know you stock TP-Link stuff, and I'm looking at the TP-Link DL110 door lock; do you know if you guys will be stocking this?

Thanks!

Top hinge

The key is longer than my car

[JacobZ]

Hi @BoeingFan,

The less time you give it, the more likely it is to stick to the sawhorses and peel when it's lifted. I'd give it two hours.

Jacob

[EricL]

Hi @BoeingFan 

Due to the cold weather, it will take paint much longer to cure, I suggest waiting the two hours as Jacob has suggested. Remember to touch the surface of the paint and move it side to side, if the interior of the paint is still soft you will feel the paint surface move. This is an indication that it is only surface dry, and the interior section is still wet. If that is the case, I suggest waiting longer and if you get a chance leave it out in the sun.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[BoeingFan]

Hi All, 

So we've got the door hung, and it's almost perfectly level; happy with that. 

Now, we need the thin bit of timber frame that butts up against the wooden door, in between the screen door and the wooden door. The void is 80mm x 10mm. What could I use to nail onto the stud?

Thanks so much.

[JacobZ]

Hi @BoeingFan,

Do you mean the door stop?

The piece of timber that the door hits against when it closes?

If so, then they usually use this 31 x 18mm 5.4m H3 Treated Pine FJ DAR Primed LOSP, and they usually sit in a trench and are attached with brad nails. 

In your case, because they wouldn't be trenched in, I would suggest using 50mm Galvanised Countersunk Rib Head Timber Screws as they will be a bit more resistant to an unintentionally slammed door than nails are.

You can drill a pilot hole, then use a countersink bit so the screw heads will sit below the surface of the timber. You can then cover the screwheads with Spakfilla, give it a sand and then paint over the top.

Let me know what you think and if I have interpreted wrong, please let me know so I can assist further.

Jacob

[BoeingFan]

Hi All,

Yes, the piece of timber that the door hits when it closes. We've spent the morning re-hanging the door, and getting the bulky door frame squared up to make sure the gaps around the door are as level and minimal as we can get them.

Given that we are building our own 'jamb', I've just hit a couple of issues, one notable:

• As you're aware, this is an old house and barely anything is straight. We've used some 70*45mm H3 pine (shudder) to build an internal frame onto the existing studs to increase the distance between the screen and the wooden door, due to the bulky door handle we chose. Now I intend to put some Porta 41x18mm 2.4m DAR Rectangle Meranti against the door on the outside to create the jamb, but I need to make the bottom half of the frame flush with the old stud so I can install the jamb nice and flush. Would a sander with a really coarse grit be a good way to get rid of about 4mm depth of the H3 pine to flush it up with the old stud? Or a chisel? 
• Second thing; as I mentioned earlier, we bought the Eufy Black Security Smart Lever Lock C33. I've just realised that when the door is closed and locked, you can still slide a spatula up against the lock catch and it simply depresses the latch and opens the door, even with all of the privacy and locked down modes active. Without an external jamb, with all the unlocking methods the C33 has, none of them stop the catch from being physically depressed. This concerns me greatly, given that the only defence to a break in really seems to be the jamb. If this is the case, and other locks do not suffer the same ease of access, I am inclined to exchange the C33 for something else. I'd appreciate your thoughts please. 

Thanks.

[EricL]

Hello @BoeingFan (Jason)

I suggest using the Craftright 3 Piece Wood Chisel Set or similar to remove the 4mm from the pine timber. In regards to the smart lock, you are correct the door jamb is the only thing preventing someone from inserting a spatula into the gap. In order to give the door jamb a fighting chance, I suggest looking at using Metal Mate 25 x 25 x 3mm 3m Galvanised Steel Angle as the door jamb on one side only. I suggest using a mixture of screws from hex head to Allen key type sets. This will prevent it from getting easily removed.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag, @TedBear and @JoeAzza for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @BoeingFan 

Ive been rolling through this thread and yeah I know how stressy it is hanging a door,

I really like @EricL's sugestion of using the metalmate angle iron, I would even countersink the screw holes and use countersunk screws to give a really nice finish. The metal angle will make it secure. I also did not think of using different types of screw heads, thats a cleaver idea and I am filing it away for future use

Dave

[BoeingFan]

Hi @EricL ,

May I ask how I would install the metal mate as the door jamb? I’m sorry if it’s a stupid question but I just can’t see how it would go on. 

Cheers

[EricL]

Hello @BoeingFan 

Here is a quick sketch of the jamb. It's basically anchored onto your door frame with really strong screws. 

If you have any other questions, please let us know.

Eric

[BoeingFan]

@EricL Ah, I see what you mean now. Thank you so much, I’ll discuss it with the war and peace officer 

Cheers