Will a non-mortise door hinge work on an external door?

[BoeingFan]

Hi All, 

I'm looking to replace our old timber door in about a month, and I have a few questions, but first, spec's of the current door are:

• Maximum width is 45mm
• Height is 1960mm
• Width is 790mm

I believe the 'best value' solid core door Bunnings have is the Hume 2040 x 820 x 35mm External Door Duracote Flush STPC. The reason I am thinking of the solid core is because I will have to take the circular saw to it to make it the dimensions I need. Would you agree?

Next, hinges. I do not own a router, and I don't trust myself to finesse a hinge rebate, so I am thinking of non-mortise hinges, such as the Lane 100mm Black Matte Easy Fit Hinge - 2 Pack. Are these suitable to use on a front door? I note the description say, "...used primarily on internal doors" so I'm wondering how much weight 'primarily' carries. What does this imply, and will they work or are they not suited to an external door? I did buy the Ryobi Door Hinge Kit in preparation for having to buy a trim router. Finally, if you look at the hinges in the photo's, do you see any issue with switching to modern door hinges? I probably should note that I don't understand the difference between the fixed pin, loose pin, and removable pin hinges.

Lastly, I know you stock TP-Link stuff, and I'm looking at the TP-Link DL110 door lock; do you know if you guys will be stocking this?

Thanks!

Top hinge

The key is longer than my car

[JacobZ]

Hi @BoeingFan,

It's brilliant to see the next project is already in the works.

You're correct that a solid core door such as the Hume 2040 x 820 x 35mm External Door Duracote Flush STPC is going to be your best option, as you will need to cut it. They are also just better for entrances as they offer the best security and acoustic dampening possible.

A fast fix hinge, also known as a hirline or non-mortise hinge, will be fine, but you'll want to use at least 3 hinges, and I'd recommend using a ball bearing hinge such as these Austyle 100 x 47 x 2.5mm 304 Stainless Steel Fast Fix Non-Mortise Flush Hinge. As a solid core door is made of solid timber, it has a bit of weight to it, so these heavy-duty ball bearing hinges will handle the forces applied to them far greater than a cheaper hinge will.

I can't see a reason you couldn't swap to a modern hinge as long as the door jamb on the hinge side is at least wider than the door. This is because the new hinges will be installed on the inside of the door jamb, not the face, like the current hinges have been.

Removable pin and loose pin hinges are pretty much the same thing. They allow you to separate the hinge plates so the door can be removed for maintenance. A fixed pin is welded in place so this is not possible. It's not recommended that you use anything besides a fixed pin hinge on an entrance door as with loose or removable pin hinges as with some effort, the door has the potential to be lifted off the hinges from the outside.

I am unaware of any plans to stock the TP-Link DL110 at this point in time, but I have reached out via email to see if we can Special Order one through our stores. Bear with me, I will update you whenever I have a response.

Jacob

[JacobZ]

Hi @BoeingFan,

Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like this door lock is available at this time.

You might like to check out our range of Smart Door Locks for an alternative.

Jacob

[BoeingFan]

Hi @JacobZ (Jacob)

Thank you so much for your advice!

I've now ordered the Hume 2040 x 820 x 35mm External Door Duracote Flush STPC door, which will hopefully be delivered next Tuesday or Thursday.

I picked up three of the Austyle 100 x 47 x 2.5mm Black Stainless Steel Fast Fix Non-Mortise Flush Hinge today, but I see you've marked four positions in the picture above. Would you suggest four will work best, or is three as good?

We've also ordered the Eufy Black Security Smart Lever Lock C33. So now we have the door, the hinges, smart lock with handle, and all I need to do is cut the door down with my circular saw. 

I must admit that I'm a little concerned about the gap in between the doors because right now the knob of the wooden door only has about a 3-5mm gap before it touches the screen door.

What could possibly go wrong! 🤣

Cheers,

Jason

[JacobZ]

Hi @BoeingFan,

The four arrows were not intended as the location of the hinges. I think I just got carried away drawing them. Apologies if this was unclear.

Three hinges will be fine. One at the top, 150mm from the top of the door, one in the middle, one at the bottom, 150mm from the bottom and one in the middle centred between the two.

Trust yourself, I am sure you'll nail it.

Let me know if you have any other questions along the way.

Jacob

[BoeingFan]

G'day Jacob @JacobZ 

Our front doorway has 2 vertical timber studs forming the 'door jamb', and the width at the top is 810mm, and the bottom 815mm. I'd prefer to not have to cut the door to size on an angle, so I'm wondering if I'd be able to 'pack out' the bottom hinge, or if there is some other way? I watched the 'how to hang a door' and 'how to install a door jamb' video's. I'm unsure about putting one side of a jamb and packing it out it because it would make the door even smaller, plus I assume anyone could come along with a crow bar and jimmy the nails out (although I'll be using screws)? 🤔

Cheers,

Jason

[JacobZ]

Hi @BoeingFan,

Unfortunately, simply packing out the location of the hinge would look pretty strange, so it is out.

In my eyes, there are three possible options: cut the door on an angle, plane back the studs, or add a jamb.

Cutting the door at an angle would be the simplest, and from experience, you won't really notice it. As long as the stud is straight and not bowed in the middle, this would be as simple as marking the width at the bottom of the door and the width at the top, then tracing the line between them to cut.

You could also plane back the stud with an electric planer. 5mm wouldn't be too detrimental to the strength of the stud, but you would have to consider this.

The other option is to attach some jamb material, such as this 92 x 11mm, then pack out the bottom so it is perfectly square. You can then cover the seam between the jamb and the stud with a trim such as this 18 x 11mm.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

[BoeingFan]

Thanks Jacob. 

I’ll have to think about these options. The last one you mentioned, the 18x11mm says it’s no longer available. Is there anything else I could use instead?

Cheers,

Jason

[JacobZ]

Hi @BoeingFan,

As our timber suppliers are often regional, the specific timber I linked to may not be available in your area. 

You can use any timber trim that will fit on the front of the jamb without poking out into the door opening.

Something like 18x11mm or 31x11mm should work.

Jacob

[BoeingFan]

G'day @JacobZ 

I've just had a chat with my builder and after doing a few more measurements we've worked out that the studs on both sides of the door are bowed inwards ever so slightly at the top and bottom. I questioned the ability to plane off the studs, move the hinges, cutting the door on an angle, and when we got talking about the 2-3mm that it needs here and there, I've decided to give him the job of hanging it. He's got all the pro tools and door lifters etc., so I'd feel more comfortable doing that. In any case, I've got the door and all the hardware, so it's just the skillset and methods I lack to do this gig. The great thing about my builder is that he has me help him on every job, so I learn as I go. Many AHA! moments.

Now I've burnt my eggs because I forgot I had them on whilst I was focused on typing this HAHAHA 🤣

Cheers,

Jason