Hi, we are trying to use the space, how can we put a hanging rail at the bottoms like what we have now? or any other suggestions? thank you guys
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @ClaireChen. It's terrific to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about installing a hanging rail.
How is the hanging rail fixed at the top? Does it make use of that middle divider as the mid-support point? If you can take a picture of how the top rail connects in the middle and how it's supported, it will give us a clue as to how you can construct the bottom rail.
Is it mainly more hanging space that you're after? If so, the additional hanging rod might be the answer, but we do have an extensive range of wardrobe storage solutions that you could utilise in the bottom section. Also, check out this Top Ideas post on 5 ways to add more storage to your wardrobe.
I look forward to seeing how that top rail is connected on the sides and in the middle. I'll then be able to suggest the appropriate products to use for your new bottom rail.
Mitchell
Hi Mitchell,
Thank you for getting back to me.
I have attached photos of other parts of the wardrobe. I am planning to have hanging rails in the middle and build simple draws on one side.
Hi @ClaireChen,
If you're fixing the hanging rail between two walls, you will use oval flanges. If you need to attach the rail to the shelf above, you can use pillar ends. Or, if you need to support a longer rail length in the middle, you can use a pillar centre.
Please let me know if you have questions.
Thank you so much for you guidance. is the wall safe to drill through to fix the oval flanges? As the above rail, they have been fixed on a piece of wood, which should be glued and also nailed through ( i am just guessing).
Hello @ClaireChen
If you are drilling into timber there should be no problem in installing the oval flanges. However, if you are installing into a plasterboard wall, I suggest using Ramset Super Wallmate Toggle Anchor. The self-drilling Ramset Toggle Anchor is suitable for heavy-duty fixing in plasterboard for cavity walls or ceilings.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Thank you so much Eric!
In terms of load bearing I would like to know which one is better, fixing to the wall or fixing to the shelf above.
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @sred. It's fantastic to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about hanging rails.If the rail is less than a metre long, it’s fine to attach it directly to the walls. However, if the rail is longer than a metre, you’ll need to add a mid-support bracket to the underside of the shelf to help distribute the weight. If the shelf itself is well-supported and can bear the weight of the clothes, you can install all your brackets directly to the underside of the shelf without needing to attach anything to the wall. Just ensure that the shelf can handle the load before proceeding.
Both methods are perfectly fine, but depending on the length, you might need to use a bit of both.Please let me know if you have any questions.Mitchell
Thanks Mitchell. The length of the rail needed for the wadrobe area is around 127 cm and the thickness of the shelf above is 1.5 cm. What do you think is better fixing to the wall or fixing to the shelf above. I have attached the image of the wadrobe.
Hi @sred,
The wall will almost certainly be the better option, but we should determine what it is made of before deciding on a method.
Fixing to the wall is usually better as it doesn't add additional weight to the shelf, however, in your circumstance, you'll need a mid-support bracket which will have to be screwed to the bottom of the shelf so a combination of the two will be best.
You can use a Sandleford 19mm Chrome Pillar Centre for the mid-support with Sandleford 19mm Modern Rod Fitting Brackets on the walls. The provided screws should be fine, but if you find the screws for the mid-support bracket will poke through the top of the shelf due to their length, you can use these Zenith 8G x 16mm Countersunk Head Timber Screws to screw it in place.
Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Jacob
Hi could I ask a question?
After reading this thread I am planning on hanging a rail directly from a shelf I have. The shelf is well supported and I checked using this site https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ and it should easily be strong enough to handle the wieght of the rail plus clothes. The shelf is quite long and I wanted to hang a 2.7m rail from it. I was thinking of getting 2 end pieces and 3 pillar centre brackets.
Could I use the included screws or would I need different screws?
the shelf is 16mm thick Melamine.
thank you so much for your help
Hi @alterily,
Thank you for your question.
I can't say I've seen the "Sagulator" before, but it looks like a great tool. Thank you for sharing. At that span, three central pillars and two end pillars would give your rail a good amount of strength.
As 16mm melamine is the standard material used in cupboards and wardrobes, the provided screws will be designed for use in this material and there is no real need to change screws. They will include screws that are very similar to these Zenith 6G x 15mm Countersunk Head Timber Screws if there's any reason you need a few more.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
Thank you so much for replying!
another quick question, would I need to drill a pilot hole or could I just drill using the screw?
It's always best to put a pilot hole as this minimises the potential for the chipboard to splinter or fracture.
If you take the screws to the tool shop, the team will be able to help you select a suitable diameter drill bit based on the screws. You want something that is about the same thickness as the shaft of the screw, but smaller than the thread.
I imagine something like this Sutton Tools 2mm Viper Jobber Drill Bit will work just fine.
Make sure you put a mark on your drill bit to ensure you don't drill through the other side of the melamine. You can put a piece of tape about 12mm down from the point of the drill bit to act as a depth gauge. If you go any deeper, there is potential you can buckle the backside of the melamine, so stopping a few millimetres short is worth doing.
