Need advice on making a waterfall countertop over my washer and dryer

I intend to make a waterfall countertop to create some bench space in my laundry and also to protect my new washing machine and dryer. I purchased the 2200 x 600 x 26mm Beech Laminated Panel for the benchtop and side panels and got them cut to size (awesome Bunnings service by the way). I am planning to whitewash the timber and seal it with some kind of polyurethane. Hoping someone could tell me which type of polyurethane/varnish I should use?

Also, since the back wall of the laundry is fully tiled, the taps and powerpoint for washer and dryer are above bench height, and the side wall is glass and has to accommodate a sliding glass door, I will be making it freestanding. I also hope to be able to slide it out if need be e.g. if something falls down the side or back or for cleaning. That's the idea at least. Open to suggestions.

I thought about using 3 brackets evenly spaced each side to attach the benchtop. Would these Carinya 150 x 125 x 20 x 5mm Hot Dipped Galvanised Angle Bracket - single be sufficient?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

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EricL

Hello @Grammy2RD

Thank you for sharing your question about making a waterfall countertop for your washer and dryer. I suggest using a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig 310 in combination with the Carinya 150 x 125 x 20 x 5mm Hot Dipped Galvanised Angle Bracket. This will reinforce the join on your benchtop even more. I recommend putting Floor Protection Syneco 150x110mm Felt 2pk 3970368 on the foot of the waterfall so that your floor will be protected from being scratched if you need to pull the benchtop out.

My number one tip is to cut out a channel at the back of the benchtop to allow the inlet hose and the electrical cords to pass through, this will also let you push the table all the way to the wall and prevent anything from dropping to the back. I've placed an image below to give you an idea of how it will look like once you've cut the channels out.

As for the lime/white washing I suggest having a look at these discussions:

There are some excellent suggestions in these discussions on how to do a lime/white wash on your benchtop.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: Kreg Pocket Hole Jigs

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Grammy2RD laundry1.jpg

Grammy2RD

Thanks Eric,

I appreciate the advice :). The pocket hole jig looks interesting. I'll definitely take a look at that, thanks.

I will also check out the whitewashing links you posted. I have done a few whitewashing projects by diluting paint and wiping off, but not with laminated wood so definitely happy to learn more. I do already have some of those floor protector pads so will definitely use those thanks.

Any advice on what sealer I should use? The info on the timber panel says to treat all sides with oil, wax or lacquer so i planned to use polyurethane of some sort to protect the wood, but I also notice it says if installing over a washing machine it is recommended to use reflective foil and a moisture barrier underneath. I'm a bit confused about that. Would a floor or marine varnish/polyurethane be sufficient if I made sure to seal all surfaces/edges?

I'm not sure I have the skills or tools to cut out the bench as you suggested. What would be the best way of going about doing that?

Thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate it.

EricL

Hello @Grammy2RD

I recommend using a water-based clear varnish on your table on the condition that you used a water-based white wash on the benchtop. It is imperative that you cover and seal every exposed surface of the benchtop. The benchtop's number one enemy is moisture and once it enters the unprotected timber it will start to warp the surface of the timber. If the benchtop has a plastic cover on it, I suggest not removing it until you are ready to paint it.

As for the foil cover, you can use Ametalin 1350mm x 10m SilverWrap LD Reflective Wall Insulation if the benchtop is too close to the surface of the machines. But if there is enough of a gap, regular air circulation should prevent heat buildup.

In reference to cutting the benchtop, I suggest using a circular saw to cut the benchtop down to the size that you need. I recommend doing some practice cuts on offcut timber pieces you might have at home. Please make sure to double-check your measurements before you commit to cutting the benchtop.

Here is a handy guide on circular saws: How to choose the right power saw for the job by @Adam_W

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Grammy2RD

Thank you Eric

I feel more confident tackling the project now.

Glenda

MitchellMc

That's great to hear, Glenda (@Grammy2RD)! Please reach out if you get stuck or have further questions.

I can't wait to see your project come together.

Mitchell

Grammy2RD

I finished my project so thought I would share some pictures.

I whitewashed the timber then part-sanded it off to give the look I was after. About 3 coats of waterbased polyurethane on all surfaces prior to assembly with an extra 2 coats on the top.

It has 3 brackets on both sides and it's stabilised by the sink one end and the slidind door frame the other end. I wasnt confident cutting into the benchtop so decided to attach 2 pieces of pine (which I had leftover from my last project) to the back of the benchtop using small brackets, leaving a gap for the water inlet and cords. I added furniture protecting felt on the waterfall feet so it slides in and out easily if needed.

I'm really happy with how it turned out and it's really functional. Thank you for the advice. It was all very helpful.

MitchellMc

Lovely work, @Grammy2RD!

The finish you've achieved is perfect and great thinking about spacing out the benchtop to allow the water inlet and cords to pass behind. I did a similar bench in my laundry, and it's made a world of difference to functionality. I'm sure your new bench will serve you well.

Many thanks for sharing your results, and I can't wait to see your next project.

Mitchell

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