How to drill into masonry?

Hi. I'm trying to drill into brick. Bought an 18V Ozito PXC hammer drill and the Craftright 15 piece masonry drill bit set. Got through the mortar veneer fine on the hammer setting, but it is not making a dint in the brick. My query is whether the problem is likely to be the hammer drill or the drill bits? If the drill, I presume the 18V Ozito PXC rotary hammer drill (I already have the batteries, so reluctant to change brands) will do the job? I had an electrician in last week drilling holes, so I know the brick's not the problem.

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Comments

EricL

Hello @bradthumb

Thanks for sharing your question about drilling into masonry. I suspect that you've drilled into a portion of the brick where the reinforcing round bar is located. I'm afraid the only way to prove my theory is to drill into another location of your brick wall. Generally speaking, your drill with the masonry bit should be making slow progress even if the drill is not in hammer mode. If you have a spare brick in your garden you can try testing it on that. You should be able to drill into it without too much effort.

However, if you still have issues while trying it on another brick, I suggest upgrading your drill bit to the next level up from either the Kango or Sutton set.

Let me call on our experienced members @MikeTNZ and @TedBear for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

TedBear

Hi @bradthumb , I am wondering what size hole you are trying to drill. I always drill a small pilot hole in masonry first. This not only guides the larger bit in, but also leaves a smaller hole to repair should it turn out to be an unsuitable spot for the hole.

I also suggest drilling through a mortar layer without the hammer on, so that it goes in straight and cleanly. Then switch to hammer for the masonry layer.

If the hole is a large diameter, you may need to open up the guide hole a little to not overload the large drill bit's cutting capacity.

bradthumb

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/24125#Comment_24125

Thanks Eric. I will give it a go on a spare brick.

bradthumb

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/24144#Comment_24144

Thanks for the tip TedBear

MikeTNZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/74724#Comment_74724

Hi @bradthumb,

TedBear is quite right.

What size will your final hole be?

What I have done in the past, when I have struck steel reinforcing members in a wall, is get a HSS twist drill bit of the same size hole and coat the end of it with cutting oil (Something like Rocol RTD) and drill out the rebar (remembering to take the "hammer" function of the drill off before doing this).

It will be hard work, do not force the drill bit into the hole, but you will get through it if you keep the tip of the drill wet with cutting oil.

Also bear in mind that when the rebar is broken, the bit may catch on the ends of the pieces of steel, so be prepared for that.

I hope this helps.

bradthumb

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/24125#Comment_24125

Hi @EricL, your suggestion proved correct. It was the drill bit. Did test holes with the original drill bits and still struggled to make headway (see test hole below to check I wasn't hitting steel rebar). Invested in a single Sutton drill bit and the difference was immediate. Was able to drill pilot holes with the Sutton bit (on the right in photo below) then widen them out as needed with the Craftright bits (on left in photo below) once the pilot hole was in. Have now successfully hung five paintings in the brick. Thanks for the advice from you, @TedBear and @MikeTNZ for solving this for me.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/74779#Comment_74779

Hi @bradthumb

Thank you very much for the update, I'm glad my suggestions helped. It's good to hear that you've managed to hang your pictures on the brick wall. What wall plug set did you use to hang your pictures?

We look forward to seeing your next project.

Eric

bradthumb

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/101031#Comment_101031

It was a 5mm x 35 mm nylon plug that came with the screws already to match the plug rather than having to guess which screw for which plug. Label says Macsim bettadrive anchor, holds up to 15 kg. https://www.bunnings.com.au/macsim-5-x-35-mm-bettadrive-anchor-25-blister-pack_p0267162

MikeTNZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/74779#Comment_74779

Hi @bradthumb,

A lot of people never even expect to strike re-inforcing in a wall inside a house when drilling into a concrete wall.

Chances are, no matter where you drill, 40-50% of the time (if the wall has decent re-inforcing in it) you will strike it.

The first sign of this is when your drill bit no longer penetrates the wall, with light pressure on the drill unit itself (which you should always use anyway), it will just stop and go no deeper.

That is why before drilling into any concrete/masonry wall you wrap the shank of the drill bit with 1 or two layers of PVC insulation tape, near the chuck

of the drill, this gives you a visual reference of how the drill-bit is travelling into the material.

Should this stop, back the drill bit out, drilling any further is going to destroy the tip on the masonry drill, when it heats up against the steel and will often start to squeal, that is too far and the tip is then damaged.

Tungsten carbide tips on masonry bits are only made for cement and brick, not steel.

They are strong, yet brittle and will destroy themselves when over-heated.

TedBear

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/74779#Comment_74779

Great to hear that you found the source of the problem and fixed it.

It reminds me of the old saying... "Never send a boy on a man's job."

I have a number of tools and accessories that I have allocated to "soft jobs only".

That was good use for the existing bit, to just widen the hole.

Child Item