How to fix particleboard table leg?

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Samnet. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about fixing your particle leg board.

I suggest using Selleys 100g Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive. The general steps to repair the leg is to clean the location of the damage of debris and loose particles with a stiff brush. Once it is clean you can now put on some liquid nails. Spread the adhesive only on one side of the damage, once it has been spread, reposition the the broken piece back into its original position.

To keep pressure on the timber piece so that it adheres properly, I recommend using a Trojan F clamp. I suggest slowly tightening the clamps over the broken piece so that it sinks in back into position. Please don't tempted to apply too much pressure as this will break the timber piece even further.

Let me call on our experienced member @JoeAzza and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Afternoon @Samnet

Bugger... And probarly a few more Id say. As @EricL has suggested liquid nails would be my first choce to reattach the broken bit. I wouldnt be reusing that fastening point tho even with the liquid nails and a clamp to secure it in place. Can you take an overall picture of where it stands/attached to? You may need to drill a new hole and install a new fastener as that type of chipboard once broken really dosnt like being repaired (Have had a few desks at work go the same way) They look great and may survive one move, possibly two but never three moves.

Id see how close the piece fits back into the hole it came from. If its close then some liquid nails. Then clamp it (making sure to wipe excess liquid nails up straight away) I have used builders wood putty to repair laminated timber before (Builders Bog) and it has worked. You can drill it and sand it even but it wont look like the top of the piece.

Will wait and see if you can take a photo then maybe figure a way to re-attach the leg.

Dave

https://www.bunnings.com.au/adoored-3-8-vertical-leg-plate-2-pack_p0101571?store=6083&gbraid=0AAAAADtbEB-Xo-IwnAGlZWfketY8heI-G&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI66vl2uW6gAMVhdQWBR0fbAoiEAQYCCABEgI-mPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hi @Samnet All good suggestions from @EricL and @Dave-1 , I am suggesting that after the part has been re glued in position, I would use a larger surface area table leg mounting plate that would hold the table legs more securely, see attached Bunnings website

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/29184#Comment_29184

Thanks @Dave-1 and @EricL

Yes I assume I can't use the fastening point as well. But really worried about alignment between the new whole with drill and the other side on the leg. It was really hard to install this leg with these types of screws

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/29185#Comment_29185

Thanks @JoeAzza

But not sure how to use this with this type of screws ans fasteners. I sent the overall pic of the the broken area and the legs. Can you please let me know, how to use it with you suggestions?

Thanks

Sam

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/29184#Comment_29184

Now that I've seen the rest of the table, I suggest using Zenith 63mm Zinc Plated Angle Brackets to support the broken panel. I also recommend using larger screws such as Zenith 8G x 25mm Countersunk Gold Rib Head Chipboard Screws. Just make sure to double check that it's not too long and that it will stay within the thickness of table panels.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/77118#Comment_77118

Thanks @EricL

You mean I need to use the glue first then use the plated angels to support it? I need to make sure this screw from the leg goes properly into the top

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/102522#Comment_102522

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/102522#Comment_102522

Yes that's exactly what you'll need to do. The reason for the angle brackets is that the leg panel is no longer strong and secure. The glue will hold it in place, but it will not be as strong as before. Adding the angle brackets will add extra strength and prevent the panel from bending again.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let me know.

Eric

Dave-1

Evening @Samnet

I like @EricL 's idea of the bracket. I would still glue that piece back in but loose the bolt as structully it wont be strong. The angled bracket would use a few screws to fasten it to the top of the table.

Dave

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/77117#Comment_77117

@Samnet just looked at the new photo’s the brackets I suggested are for table legs/post with a threaded end that can be screws into the plate.

@EricL bracket advice will be a lot better and stronger to use, just remember to use screws no longer than the desk top, otherwise the screws will protrude through the desk top.

Thanks @JoeAzza @Dave-1 @EricL

I'll go and get all tomorrow from the store and share the results with you.

My main concern is about connecting legs to tops as there are a couple of screws and wood to be matched together

Hopefully the brackets don't add more complications to this alignment

Cheers

Sam

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/29189#Comment_29189

@Samnet I suggest that you remount the legs after you have replied the broken chipboard, clamped and let dry, then assemble the leg, then fit the angle brackets in the clear areas so they won’t interfere with the existing screws. Hope this helps.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/77121#Comment_77121

@JoeAzza Exactly I was thinking the same order

1- cleaning the surface and removing particles

2- adding glue

3- clamping

4- installing the leg

5- adding the brackets

What do you think?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/102526#Comment_102526

@Samnet good thinking, just use some masking tape or other tape in between the clamp and the glued part, this is so the clamp doesn’t get glued to the wood.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/77116#Comment_77116

Good morning @Samnet

I was just re-reading your post. I generally find that if its really hard to align then something else may not be so right. I have had to install a bunch of those type of connectors and if things dont match then I look to see what other parts that were tight to do up.

With the right angled brackets, one either side of where that connector bolt would be should be solid enough (Maybe step away from the bolt by 5cm just so you dont screw into anything metal)

Dave

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/102529#Comment_102529

Afternoon @Samnet

Certainly a big chunk came away from the desk-top underside.

Is it under warranty?

If that happened after simply just lifting the table - a stronger connection is required.

If you're good with a hammer and chisel - chisel out a small area so that it's flat and deep enough to accept a piece of 5mm steel plate.

This plate has been drilled and tapped to accept the male side of the connecting rod - with countersunk holes for small screws. That rod is never going to come adrift.

Position it as required.

Screw in position (how thick is the desk top?).

Fill the surrounding areas with something like Builders Bog. And maybe brackets as per @EricL ?

I'm happy to mail this to you - or make a smaller base if you give me dimensions. No cost - call it the Bunnings Workshop Community Spirit. 😁

See what you think and let me know.

Cheers!

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/118273#Comment_118273

Hi @Noyade

Thanks for your offer.

For sure I need something sturdy. Do you think I can use what you suggested based on the dimensions in these photos?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/127529#Comment_127529

Hi Sam @Samnet

The bracket is 50mm by 67mm - it was just a piece of scrap I had handy. I just made it quickly to show you what I was on about and I'm not suggesting this is the only solution to your desk problem.

But I can make the base whatever dimension you want.

Again I ask - what is the thickness of the desk top? You definitely need enough space for screws for this method - otherwise all of the other ideas above may suffice.

"Thanks for your offer."

Genuine offer. You can PM me your address or I can pass it onto the Bunnings Workshop who could forward it onto you if you desire anonymity.

I just love trying to solve life's little problems - if I can.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133603#Comment_133603

Thanks @Noyade

I tried to take photos from different angles to give you better idea of the size and if it works for me or not

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137365#Comment_137365

Evening Sam @Samnet

I'm thinking the current plate size is too large. Possibly 50mm in length and 30mm wide with the pin 20mm from the edge. Hard to tell how deep that canyon is. But looks like 5mm at the edge and you will need to chisel a bed for the plate.

What do you think, Sam?

Sun's going down here - I'll make it tomorrow. The pin thread is M6 - I'm assuming yours is as well.

I see the desk is thick! - 40mm. Plenty of room for screws. 👍

Not to scale.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139952#Comment_139952

Thanks @Noyade

Really appreciate it

Do you think after this plate, I still need Dowel Connectors or I can get rid of it too which makes the alignment easier

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139952#Comment_139952

I believe the dowel connectors are part of the assembly, I recommend not removing them as it helps with alignment.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141757#Comment_141757

Morning Sam @Samnet

Smaller bracket base now. Roughly 50mm X 33mm with the pin offset 20mm - which appears to be the distance from the intact side. The countersinking is very large, to accommodate just about any screw head you desire.

But no matter how strong this pin base is, the weakest link is now that soft alloy round connector.

Let me know what you think.

Cheers.

Graeme.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143117#Comment_143117

Appreciate it @Noyade

1- Do I just need to screw it in? No other extra glue, woodworking,....

2-How can I get it?

Thanks

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144072#Comment_144072

@Samnet

"1- Do I just need to screw it in? No other extra glue, woodworking,...."

As discussed earlier, you will need to chisel out the area and depth as per the steel plate dimensions.

Yes - screws are required.

"2-How can I get it?"

I will mail it out to you.

As I mentioned earlier...

Genuine offer. You can PM me your address or I can pass it onto the Bunnings Workshop who could forward it onto you if you desire anonymity.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144795#Comment_144795

Hi @Noyade

That is truly an impressive repair patch! I'm sure @Samnet will be very grateful for the repair piece you are sending to them.

Thank you very much for the help you are giving.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144795#Comment_144795

Thanks @Noyade

Have been trying to find a way to PM you but couldn't find it.😅😅😅

I added you as friends but still there is no option to pm you

Do you know how to pm you?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145349#Comment_145349

@Samnet

hi to send a private message, click on @Noyade then scroll down to the bottom and select private message

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/145778#Comment_145778

@JoeAzza thanks but I don't see this option

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/146101#Comment_146101