How to install VJ panels on a timber frame?

Good morning @SPP

A warm welcome to the Bunnings community page 🙂 There are a bunch of questions and answers about VJ paneling. I have an old version on one wall that I need to replace and probarly shall with the new version 🙂

Any chance of a couple of pictures of tyhe wall/s you are refering to? Also the spacing of the frames are usually done to rule so they should match what the VJ paneling needs. (Even if you have built the wall yourself) Do you happen to know your spacing within the frame?

The only reason I can think that there is a required spaceing is so that there is structual support with no flexing of the paneling.

You could use a stud finder to find the studs before you remove the mdf if you dont know the spacing. If the studs are too far apart then you could add some more studs before installing the VJ panel.

One question that popped into mind, Is there a reason you are not installing the VJ paneling over the MDF?

Dave

Hello @SPP

Thanks for sharing your question regarding the installation of EasyVJ panels. Frame spacing is required when installing certain Easycraft panels. But all of this can be bypassed by installing directly over your existing MDF wall. This is on the condition that your wall is straight and does not have dips and bows on its surface.

Here are some amazing bedroom makeover projects using EasyVJ panels:

Here is a link to the Easycraft Installation brochure: Easycraft Installation Guide

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: EasyVJ Installation

In regards to installing the panels directly to the timber frame of your house, I suggest having a look at page 6 of the installation guide. There are specific instructions on what to do when joining panels when there is no stud in the vicinity.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Thanks Eric.

I am adding insulation and re-doing wiring so it doesn't make sense for me to place VJ Panels over the existing walls.

Thanks Dave.

As mentioned in my reply to Eric I am re-doing the wiring and adding in some insulation so it doesn't make sense to use the previous walls.

My plan was to get a pry bar and take off the current walls and see how far apart the studs are.

In anycase, since I am adding insulation the current walls will have to come off.

Good morning @SPP

Makes sense, one thing to throw in if you are removing the cover to that level, is to run in some network cable or run in some extra holes through the base plate if you have access to underneath the floor and a thick drawwire. I was think the wall might be plasterboard until I saw above the door and down the hall 🙂

Looks like it will be a nice project to do and so nice to have modern outlets where you want them!

Dave

Hi @SPP

Thanks for sharing the extra details about your renovation project. Once you have you wall panels removed you'll have a much better idea of the wall studs spacing.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the start of your project.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Hi @EricL,

Thanks, I am having trouble removing the walls!

I bought this item:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-380mm-wrecking-bar_p5610547?store=8182&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvoqsBhB9EiwA9XTWGWOhk5q3SqPvBSemep7OjHjUcC2L83uv42XZO9APkYe_kzB9kTtslRoC92QQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I am not sure why the walls are coming off, can you provide guidance?

Regards
Sree

Good Evening @SPP

The longer the bar the easier it will be is the way Id look at it, Your bar is only 380mm long, so you need a lot more effort applied. If you had a 600mm plus bar you will need a lot less effort. Think of a seasaw type pivet and shuffling the hinge point back and fourth. The longer the fulcrum (couldnt think of the word at first lol) the easier it will be.

Have you checked your walls for asbestos? Just asking because you mentioned mdf and the photo of the wall makes me think its an older house. I was thinking Fibro style sheets. Prob its not and I am being over cautious but no harm in checking.

Dave

Hi @Dave-1

I did have asbestos testing performed. The walls are MDF.

What about having a chisel to take off the architraves?

Regards
Sree

Morning @SPP

Beautiful 🙂 Good Christmas news 🙂 The small pry bar you have would be handy for the architraves for sure, A longer one would be better to pry the mdf away. You can use a chisel no probs, Id use the chisel with a mallet and then lay the head of a claw hamer down under the chisel when leavering so it distributes the force and les slike to damage and more likely to lever it off. Keep the old arcjitraves for reference until you put them back or replace. I always mark the back of the strips with a texta so I know wheich wall they come from.

Actually envious as I think this is a good Christmas break job to start 🙂

Dave

Hello @SPP

I suspect that aside from nails or screws holding your wall in, adhesive might have been applied to it as well. It might also be necessary to use a hammer in combination with your demolition bar. I also suggest having a look at Fiskars Pro Isocore 2.4kg Demolition Tool. It has multiple functions integrated into the bar and has a lifetime warranty.

Please make sure to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a mask when working on your renovation.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Thanks @EricL

I will be getting a chisel to begin with and seeing how that works for me.

I have some updates @EricL and @Dave-1.

I have managed to remove a part of a wall. Please see attached photos.

In terms of what needs to happen from here:

1) Keep removing the walls.
2) Clean up all the dust/debris.
3) Remove all nails in current studs.
4) Get a VJ Panel from Bunnings and attempt to put it into the walls.

What else would you suggest I do?

It sounds like you're on track @SPP.

Once you've removed the MDF panel, you can follow this guide: EasyVJ Installation. I suspect that since you appear to have rather standard stud spacing, no additional timber will be needed for the installation.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Afternoon @SPP

Nice work 🙂 I thought thats Masonite! lol and then went and had a google, similar but a little different 🙂

Id be following the same steps as you, Id also either take a photo and add measurements to the pic or draw it up with all the measurements. Taking a pic is not work always lol (from experience and I take loads of pics) Helps out when you want to mount a painting/mirror to the wall and looking for a stud.

Definitely something fun to be doing inside these days (if you live on the East coast of Aus that is 🙂 )

Dave

Thanks @MitchellMc

Yes, before I go full monty on the demolition I will get the remaining electrical items (aircon, ceiling fan and power-points), asbestos removal.

Then I can remove and clean all and start re-installing. I went into the store today, thankfully it doesn't seem to hard to install the panels. Maybe some simple tools like a circular saw, a nail-gun and a lot of elbow grease 🙂

Thanks @Dave-1

Yes, a healthy set of measurements is always a good idea!

Akanksha

Thanks for sharing those photos, @SPP.

Keep us updated as your project progresses. We'd love to see the final result.

Akanksha

Thanks @Akanksha, @Dave-1, @MitchellMc and @EricL

I suppose the next step for me is to measure the straightness of the studs and also measure the spacing between them.

What do I do if the studs are not straight?

Afternoon @SPP

It really wont make a lot of difference. As long a syou know where they are and you will be able to see it as you put the VJ panels in place.

If you are really concerned then mark in pencil say the left hand side of a stud on the floor and on the edge of the cornice/ceiling that way you will always know where the stud is centered.

Dave

Provided the studs are not exceptionally misaligned @SPP, I can't see that being an issue. As @Dave-1 mentioned, just note their location prior to fixing off the sheets to them.

Mitchell

Thanks @MitchellMc and @Dave-1

Now, I want to insulate the walls and ceiling of my house, what R-Value would you recommend? Can I just use R4 through the house? (Walls and Ceilings).

Hi @SPP,

R4 would be perfect for the roof, but could get a bit squished in a wall cavity. Measure the thickness of the wall cavity between the two outer sheets to determine the best R-value for the room you have. Take, for instance, the Earthwool R4.0 195 x 430 x 1160mm 7.5m² Insulation Ceiling Batt. Note it has a thickness of 195mm. If your wall cavity is not that thick and the batt needs to be compressed to fit in there, you can reduce its insulation value to less than a batt that is designed to fit in a wall. Batts should not be compressed as they need to be fully expanded to reach their R-value potential. You might be better off with an Earthwool R2.0 90 x 430 x 1160mm 16.0m² Insulation Wall Batt, which is designed for a wall. A fully expanded R2.0 batt could outperform a compressed R4.0 batt.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Hi @MitchellMc

That makes perfect sense, thanks for letting me know.

This might seem like a silly question @MitchellMc but that 7.5 m2 here (https://www.bunnings.com.au/earthwool-r4-0-195-x-430-x-1160mm-7-5m-insulation-ceiling-batt-15-pack-195-x-430-x-1160_p0300790) is for all the batts combined? Not each batt of the 15 pack?

Hello @SPP

It's perfectly alright to ask these questions. Yes, 7.5m2 is the total coverage of each bag not each panel. One panel is 1160mm x 430mm which gives you an area of 0.4988sqm. When multiplied by 15 sheets you get 7.482m2. Please note that each panel goes in between the timber studs.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Thanks @EricL

I generated a lot of waste from the demolition of the walls.

See attached image, should I get a circular saw and cut through all the material to make it easier to dispose off? I can of-course organize a waste disposal service but I am looking to save money.

Also keen for your inputs @MitchellMc and @Dave-1

Hi @SPP,

Could you please try attaching that image again? It didn't seem to come through, but it sounds like cutting the material into smaller sections would be best if you are trying to dispose of it in normal waste. You might want to contact your local council as they could have rules about disposing of building waste in your normal bins. Do you have a kerbside cleanup in the near future?

Mitchell