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How to finish edges of a VJ panelled wall?

Sugar

Hi DIY Lover,

There are plenty of posts regarding the VJ panelling, but I would like to start a fresh as per my problem :).

My plan is to have this wall dedicated for hanging pictures, frames etc.

This is something I am aiming for.

I have plan for different walls, but to start with this one and my questions are indicated with the mark.

In below image, green shadow is the wall, I would like to do VJ paneling.

How do we finish around the edges indicated by the red line ?

How do we finish the VJ panelling before the skirting board shown in the image below ?

What could be the easiest way to work around the areas such as this power plug ?

Thank you.

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MitchellMc

Hi @Sugar,

Are you stopping on the corners with the red line or continuing around them to add more VJ panels on the next wall? If you are continuing around then this guide shows you how to do this: Installing VJ panel to an existing wall. If you are not continuing around the corner, you can install a Porta 20 x 20mm 2.4m Clear Pine External Corner Rounded Edging coverstrip over the edge to finish it off nicely. You might like to check out this Best Advice guide: How do you install VJ panels around a corner?

It's a bit hard to tell from your images what the top edge of the skirting board looks like. You might like to place a VJ board on top of it to see what the transition looks like. You might find that the panels can be placed directly onto the skirting board, as per the below image.

With the powerpoints, the best option is to have an electrician come in and remove them before the installation of the panels. You can then provide cutouts at the powerpoint locations and install your panels. Once the panels are installed you can have the electrician come back and install the powerpoints onto the panels. If you just cut the panels to fit around the powerpoints, it won't be a nice finish as the powerpoint will be sunken, and there will be exposed edges of the boards.

Please let me know if you have questions.

Mitchell

Sugar

@MitchellMc I am finishing where the Red Line Marking is. The left of the wall finishes off with 90degree vertical wall, whereas right hand side wall leads to the 45 degree wall (close to the door). So, i have to deal with both 90deg. and 45 deg. wall here.

My skirting boards are like this.

They are round close to the wall.

I am not sure if I quite got what you said about the power point.

MitchellMc

Hi @Sugar,

For the 90-degree corners, you can finish by either adding a coverslip or filling and sanding the edge of the boards. That's going to be difficult to do at the 45-degree corner, so I'd suggest continuing the board around the corner on that one and following the Easycraft guide above.

Your skirting appears to have a relatively flat portion on the top, so you should be able to place the sheets onto it. Gap filler on the front bottom edges will help the panel and skirting transition seamlessly.

Mitchell

Sugar

Thanks @MitchellMc.

I visited Bunnings last weekend and again so many ideas, just need them to integrate.

I would appreciate if you could assist me on recommending Power Tools. Consider me as an enthusiastic DIY and growing interest over the wooden work with my various upcoming project. Hence, I will be needing something less hassles and easy to handle, but still does what I need to do.

I guess main thing on while cutting the timbers are :

1.) cutting on 90 degree

2.) cutting on 45 degree

3.) Important - cutting without splintering.

Currently I have these power tools :

Jigsaw:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-pxc-18v-jigsaw-pxjss-600-skin-only_p6290477

Circular Saw :

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-185mm-1300w-corded-circular-saw_p6290237

While both of the above tools had/have helped me on various previous projects, particularly above corded circular saw requires some setup and handling of wires and tables while cutting timber, plus moving the tool itself along the timber. This is not very handy.

I am looking for tools to cut timbers that can be set permanently on one place, preferably battery powered, but not sure if battery powered will achieve my goals.

Currently I am looking for these, please advise me, if I can get away with them for smaller or descent projects.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-pxc-36v-2-x-18v-254mm-sliding-mitre-saw-skin-only-pxsmss-254_p0504085

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-1600w-210mm-8-corded-compound-mitre-saw_p0025645

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-2000w-254mm-10-table-saw-tbs-2010_p0412274

thanks

MitchellMc

Hi @Sugar,

The Ozito PXC 36V 2 x 18V 254mm Sliding Mitre Saw - Skin Only PXSMSS-254, Ozito 1600W 210mm 8¼" Corded Compound Mitre Saw, and Ozito 2000W 254mm 10" Table Saw TBS-2010 are perfectly capable machines and will work well for what you need them for. Battery powered tools are suitable for light construction work (similar to what you're doing) but will need to be charged if you cut for several hours.

The two mitre saws are much the same thing, so you'd only need one or the other, not both.

I've used the two 240V saws for many years with very few issues.

MItchell

Sugar

Hi @MitchellMc

Thanks for the advise.

Out of the, I am preferring this with table and reasonable price.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-2000w-254mm-10-table-saw-tbs-2010_p0412274

However, could you please tell me if I will be able to cut the timbers like this (big depth) :

https://www.bunnings.com.au/easycraft-9-x-2400-x-1200mm-easyvj100-primed-general-purpose-wall-lining-mr-mdf-e0_p0330364

timber panel like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-1200-x-600-x-18mm-timber-multi-use-pine-panel_p0419619

Decking timber ? And these ones as well

I would like to confirm as these are what going to be useful for me in future project.

Thanks

JacobZ

Hi @Sugar,

I can confirm that the Ozito 2000W 254mm 10" Table Saw is capable of cutting all the materials you have mentioned.

It has a maximum cutting depth of 85mm and 65mm at a 45-degree angle.

While the table saw is perfectly capable of cutting these materials, please remember that they are a dangerous piece of equipment and ensure you read the manual carefully, take all recommended precautions and wear your personal protective equipment including eye protection, hearing protection, gloves and a mask.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Sugar

@JacobZ thank you for confiming.

@MitchellMc

For your statement - "Your skirting appears to have a relatively flat portion on the top, so you should be able to place the sheets onto it."

My skirting board fall under this category : https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-42x11mm-2-7m-colonial-architrave-tabma-as-10-primed-fj-pine_p8480072

And for your statement - "If you just cut the panels to fit around the powerpoints, it won't be a nice finish as the powerpoint will be sunken"

If I have understood above statement correctly, it means that we need to have panel cut to that size so that the powerpoint plate sits just on it without getting withdrawn all the way in where it was initially. That means Electrican going to stretch out the PowerPoint and sit out in new panel, for which we might want to start with smaller panel cut so that it does not sunken by accident.

And Cutting panels like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/900-x-1200mm-9mm-lining-panel-white-mdf-primed-vj-100mm_p0281910

we should be able to do by Jigsaw tool.

Thank you.

MitchellMc

That skirting has a rounded top profile @Sugar, so the flat bottom edge of the VJ panel might not sit nicely on top. You could place a panel on the skating to check. Perhaps adding caulking to the joint would help soften it. Otherwise, you'd need to remove the skirting to put the panel behind it.

That's correct about the powerpoint. It needs to be removed so you can install the panelling. It then gets re-installed on top of the panel.

A jigsaw is fine for cutting the panels, but a circular saw would be best for any long, straight cuts.

Mitchell

Sugar

@MitchellMc @JacobZ

How do you (we) go for VJ panneling around the AC and the window frame in this picture,?

I am picking up this project after so many years. Image (31).jpg Image (30).jpg Image (29).jpg

This is my first time installing VJ panneling and I think it is going to be tricky around AC unit.

Should I use anythink like this around the window boarders to give nice finishing ?

https://www.bunnings.com.au/products/building-hardware/timber/mouldings/pine-mouldings

I am going to use this from bunnings.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/easycraft-2400-x-1200-x-9mm-easyvj100-wall-lining-primed-general-purpose-mr-mdf-e0_p0330364

Thank you for the advice.

JacobZ

Hi @Sugar,

Is the plan to install the EasyVJ directly over the existing plasterboard? Or would you be removing it before installing the EasyVJ?

I am assuming you would be installing it over the existing wall, which would have some implications when installing against your window and air con unit.

As per the Easycraft General Products & Installations Guide, it is important to consider the expansion gaps required around junctions and obstructions. These three dot points are key.

A 10mm gap must be left at the floor if the wall lining is being installed only partway up the wall.
A 5mm gap must be left at the top of the sheet if the wall lining is being installed from floor to ceiling.
For each metre width of wall or ceiling, allow approx. 1.0mm for an expansion gap at the outer perimeters of your wall or ceiling. (e.g. 6m wall x 1.0mm = 6mm therefore leave a 3mm gap at each outer edge of wall or ceiling

If possible, the best option for the AC unit is to have an AC technician temporarily remove the wall unit so you can install the EasyVJ underneath it. This would give you the cleanest finish possible.

If this is not possible, you could cut it to fit around the unit and then attach a DAR stop or quad moulding as shown in the Easycraft finishing options and suggestions, ensuring you leave enough of an expansion gap for the width of the area.

For the windows, the thickness of the architrave would need to be considered. If you can comfortably fit a 9mm thick sheet of EasyVJ and a DAR stop or quad moulding against it without it protruding past the architrave, then this could be an option. Otherwise, you might need to temporarily remove the architraves, install some 9 x 9mm DAR Square Timber against the window opening, install the EasyVJ up to the 9x9mm timber, leaving an expansion gap based on the width of the wall, then install the architrave back over the stop and EasyVJ.

There is some complexity to the install, so please let me know if you follow and if you have any further questions I can help with.

Also, you should definitely have a look at all of the Installation Guides on Easycraft's website as they are quite extensive.

Jacob

Sugar

Dear@JacobZ

I might need to be clear on something here, plus few information to give you.

This EasyVJ 100 I bought today is flushing perfectly with my window architraves, plus with the bottom thickness of the cornices.

This is the cornices I have in my house.

Updating Media

The VJ flush ( same thinkness) with the cornices. Yes, I am putting this VJ against existing board.

Questions :

1.) When it is flushing with window frame, do I still need to use moulding or DAT ?

2.) When it is lushing perfectly with cornices, do I still need to use at the top ?

3.) I have taken out skirting nicely and I am putting the VJ with 10mm gap at the bottom and placing the previous skirting back. However, do I have to allow 5mm gap at the top (althought the flushing with cornices is perfectly okay) ?

4.) Since I am going to corner to corner, I believe I can put following in my either sides of corners ? Do you have any product in mind with I can use from bunnings?

5.) Do DAR stop and moulding work differently? I still don't understand how do I use them around the Window frame, corners or even at the top?

My apologies of naive questions but I will learn if you explain my each questions ( sorry if there are any repeatation).

#Sugarman

PS: I think I am going to the VJ to the AC unit size. I think the joints can be hidden by painting and with wood filler (if multiple).

This is my progres so far, holes created for switches and skirting removed 🙂

JacobZ

Hi @Sugar,

You should be fine using a flexible gap filler such as No More Gaps instead of using mouldings or stops; you will just have to ensure you have created enough of a gap in the right places.

No, you should be fine to use gap filler. You will however, need to leave a gap that is 1mm for each metre of width.
No, you can use gap filler.
Yes, you need the 5mm expansion gap at the top.
Yes, they are called scotia.
No, they function exactly the same. They sit over the panels to cover the expansion gap.

You might like to have a look at How to finish VJ panelling for some discussion on much the same topic.

It looks good so far. Keep up the good work, just make sure you allow for those expansion gaps.

Jacob

Sugar

@JacobZ Thanks for all the information. Let’s see where I go after integrating all these information. I will keep you posted. Thanks

Sugar

@JacobZ @MitchellMc This is my progress so far, not sure good or bad 🙂 . I am happy with my progress being my first time as well. However, there are gaps to fill. I have gaps around Window Frame, top of the panel, around the AC unit and between panels as well.

The gaps are ranging from 5mm to 10mm as well. Not sure how to tackel this situation.

Not sure if it is good idea to fill such a big gap with No Gap filler or if there are any other moulding or framing alternatives.

Here the panel is perfectly lining (flushing) with the thinkness of the bottom of the cornices and window architraves.

Help !!!

Thank you in advance

Gap underneath window frameApprox. 10mil gap between bottom of cornices and top of panel Image (40).jpg Gaps around window frameGap around AC unit (Right side)Gap on left side of AC unit.gap bottom of window frame

EricL

Hello @Sugar

Thank you for sharing pictures of your progress, the EasyVJ panels are looking good!

Eric

Sugar

@EricL looking for advice to fill the gap. Thanks

Jason

Sorry about that @Sugar. Let me tag experienced member @Nailbag to see how he might address those gaps.

Jason

EricL

Hello @Sugar

My apologies for not seeing the rest of your query. I suggest covering the window gap with scotia as Jacob had recommended in his last response. I propose looking at 66 x 18mm 5.4m White Moulding Pine FJ Primed Bullnose to cover the window gap and the aircon gap. As for the gap between sheets, I suggest using Timbermate 500g Earl's MulTflex White Exterior Flexible Filler - 500g. It is a unique exterior filler as it is flexible and therefore won't crack with movement. The top portion will need to be filled in with a silicone filler such as Selleys 475g No More Gaps Interior Multipurpose Gap Filler. The bottom portion of the panel can be covered with a skirting board of your choice.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @Sugar

I would like to suggest this 19mm x 19mm quad for around the air conditioner's head unit. But the gap on the right side maybe too wide? So, you might need to opt for this 23mm x 23mm rounded version. Anything bigger will be too Chucky, so you may have to particle fill the right side to support the trim.

For the architrave around the window, there are several profiles to choose from. I would select one that is closest to your existing window arcs for consistency. The same goes for the skirting along the bottom of the wall where it meets the wall. Match that to existing or as close to. Usually you would go slightly taller for skirts than the width of the arcs. The 66 x 18mm 5.4m White Moulding Pine FJ Primed Bullnose is a good example by @EricL for the skirting.

For the gap in the vertical join under the window, my go to filler is this one by Parafix, which I use regularly. The Timbermate one @EricL suggested is also a good product, though I being an exterior product I had found its wasn't as easy to manipulate on internal joins. But the Selleys 475g No More Gaps Interior Multipurpose Gap Filler he suggested for along the top where the VJ meets the cornice is ideal.

Nailbag

Sugar

Thanks @EricL and no issue on late repsonse, and @Nailbag and everyone for useful suggestion.

1.) Around AC unit, I am going to use this : https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-67x11mm-2-7m-dar-rectangle-pre-primed-fj-pine_p8480062

please confirm if this is going to be okay This will certainly hide the gaps and I came to conclusion after talking to store person.

2.) Around the cornices : I have already applied No More Gaps. Being smaller to bigger gaps, it is a little bit difficult but seems like coming to shape. Being white and I am planning to paint white as well, I am hoping there won't be much differences afterwards.

3.) Gaps between panels : I like the idea about Parfix. I will head store tomorrow to find it. I like how it can be sanded as well and painted.

4.) Around the windows frame : This, I am still having difficulty to get the concept of using this around window frame : https://www.bunnings.com.au/66-x-18mm-5-4m-white-moulding-pine-fj-primed-bullnose_p0020761

Are we suggesting to remove existing architraves from windows frame and use this ?

I cannot use any moulding or timber as the panel and architraves sit almost on the same level.

Please help me to understand this.

Or, can I use Parfix around window frame too and sand it to the level ?

Any visualisation would be nice 🙂 @EricL if you have any time.

5.) Bottom skirting: I have carefully uninstalled the previous skirting board and I am going to use the same skirting board to keep consistency.

EricL

Hello @Sugar

If you are looking for a similar trim as the aircon you can use the same piece Porta 67x11mm 2.7m DAR Rectangle Pre-Primed FJ Pine for your window. It will need to be attached to the existing architrave edge of the window so that the gap is covered. I think the gap is too big for the Parfix, but if you feel confident that it can cover the gap then you can include it in your options.

Let me tag @Nailbag and @Dave-1 for their advice.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Evening @Sugar

With all the trim you are thinking of using I would suggest to keep to the same size/type to make it look consistant.

Lets step through your questions.

1.) Around AC unit, I am going to use this : https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-67x11mm-2-7m-dar-rectangle-pre-primed-fj-pine_p8480062

please confirm if this is going to be okay This will certainly hide the gaps and I came to conclusion after talking to store person.

A1) Yes that is what I think they are saying and I also think it tidy up the edge nicely.

A2) You might need some sanding but it sounds like you are confident on this 🙂

3.) Gaps between panels : I like the idea about Parfix. I will head store tomorrow to find it. I like how it can be sanded as well and painted.

A3) I havnt used Parfix, I have used the timbermate product that @EricL has mentioned tho and I found it easy enough.

Are we suggesting to remove existing architraves from windows frame and use this ?

A4) I think the suggestion is to replace the existing architraves however I see the problem with that step effect that you have. I would consider removing the existing architraves and then "pad" the window sill (and around the window) out with timber to end flush with your VJ panel and then install the new architraves onto that.

Image (42)b.jpg

The area in red you should be able to lever off, Its just fancy trim with a step effect. Id use a medium flat blade screw driver and tap gently where you can see the line (may be covered in paint) You can see the join in the corners. Once you have removed the fancy trim, you can then measure the distance from the sill to the edge of your VJ panel. Then all you do is to buy some trim the same width as what you have just pulled off and fix it around the window as a spacer. Then the same sized trim as what you have chosen to go around the air con unit can be also used around teh window attached to that "spacer"

"I cannot use any moulding or timber as the panel and architraves sit almost on the same level". (yeah, see above for an idea on how you could workaround the issue)

5.) Bottom skirting: I have carefully uninstalled the previous skirting board and I am going to use the same skirting board to keep consistency.

A5) This is exactly what i would be doing for a nice tidy look, Note you will have skirt lengths change to the amount of VJ panel thickness if you go around corners.

Dave

Sugar

Love your support @EricL @Nailbag @Jason @JacobZ @Dave-1 .

I spent sometime in Bunnings yesterday and I found a product and that truely helped to hide the gaps on the top and around the windows. I will finish this project and write up about this as a new project. Truely, I learned a lot from this project and made mistakes i will share with others. Stay tuned 🙂

JacobZ

Hi @Sugar,

I'm glad that I could help out and happy to know you learned a lot from your VJ panelling project.

I'm looking forward to seeing it written up.

Jacob

Sugar

@JacobZ No issue.

With 2 panels left over, I am aiming to do another wall (very plain wall, no switch or AC, just a wall at front entry) as well.

This is the wall.

I am curius what trim I can use to finish of on the edge indicated by yellow highlight.

I read this article (very helpful) : https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/Living-and-Bedroom/Recessed-TV-feature-wall-with-easyVJ-panels/td-p/62584/page/2

I saw this trim this gentlemen used :

And @EricL replied on this too (on how to attach this):

My question is :

If this is aluminium, will it be easier to cut to sizes ? Will we be able to color to our choices ( to match the color to the VJ panel)?

Any alternatives you can think of?

This wall is very different than what I did before, plain wall but the right corner has open ended edge.

Thank you for your help.

JacobZ

Hi @Sugar,

There are a number of ways you could do it.

You could attach a timber bead or stop such as this 18x18mm DAR Square Pine to the edge of the wall and then butt your sheet into it and seal the seams with no more gaps before priming and painting.

You could also use timber angle like this Porta 30 x 30mm External Corner Rounded Edging Primed FJ Pine.

You could also use aluminium angle like @ProjectPete recommended. It could be cut with aviation snips, then attached with liquid nails before sealing the seams with no more gaps and painting. Being aluminium, you would just need to apply primer before painting and you could colour match the wall.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Nailbag

Been a pleasure @Sugar

Sugar

Thank @JacobZ

With https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-30-x-30mm-2-7m-external-corner-rounded-edging-primed-fj-pine_p0074112

how am I going to put this product ?

The thickness of panel is 9mm and above timber is 30x30mm. how are they going to work together?

I am finding hard to visualise which sides of the timber goes where to integrate with panel.

Also with Aluminium one, it is making sense a little bit as it has not much bigger side but still, the lowest sides it has is 12mm, and again greater than thinkness of panel i.e 9mm. How is this working together, unless we are ignoring 3mm (in this case ).

I hope I am making sense here. Thanks.

JacobZ

Hi @Sugar,

It would look like this.

When installed, you aren't going to see the corner of the VJ panel at all; you would just see the two 30mm legs on each side of the corner.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

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