Hi Guys & Gals I need your recommendations on a good quality drill driver set pz but Not Ryobi's 40 piece set its rubbish.
tyia
Hello @Ange11
Thanks for sharing your question about what drill and driver set to get. These drill and driver set's that I'm about to suggest are the ones that I use all the time and have always provided excellent results. The Kango 36 Piece Hypertorque Impact Driving Set is a strong set that I've yet to wear out, it has magnetized tips and are very hard wearing. For drilling I use the Kango 19 Piece Cobalt Drill Bit Set, these drill bits go through just about anything and they keep their sharpness even after a large amount of use.
I've made the mistake of using a generic masonry bit that ended up ruining my drill. Whereas using a high-quality bit made the job so much faster. Investing in the bits you use for your tool is just as important as how you handle the tool itself. A good craftsman always takes care of their tools because they know the right tools will never let them down when it counts.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @JoeAzza for their recommendations.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @Ange11
A great suggestion on both kits there by @EricL I have used Kango products for years and have been very happy with them with exception to the odd issue.
A couple of points with the drill bit set:
- Definitely get one with more bits than less because of the included size options.
- Cobalt is great allrounder bit designed for longer wearing until it wears off or the bit is sharpened. This will happen if you drill a lot of metal, then they become a HSS bit. I had a good set of both Kango Cobalt and HSS, but after experiencing the above I wouldn't pay the extra for the Cobalt.
- The new Kango drill bit cases are easily the worst I have encountered. You literally slice your fingers drying to get bits in/out. I transferred a new set of bits into an old case and through the new case away. My advice would be to definitely to try before you buy.
Nailbag
Morning @Ange11
Mmmm Im going to go against @EricL and @Nailbag s recomendations 🙂 hahhahah
I dont own a drill driver set 😲 so thats me out on that one.
I do have a few "sets" of drills, noteably a blue box (had since my apprentaship and thast a looooong time ago, now half full) and a few other mixed boxes ive picked up over the years, no branding remembered. I actually have found that in general I dont use MOST of teh drill bits in the boxes. I do use particular sizes of drill bits tho. 1/8" (3mm) Lots, 1/4" (6mm) a fair bit and a few10mm and also a 12mm for my larger bolt holes. The rest of the drill bits only get used when I run out of these particular sizes.
Id buy it as a back up but otherwise you will soon rack up a few drills (I keep mine in a glass jar, well a few jars and also I have a drill draw for the longer heavier drills 🙂 Sharpening drills is something I should do but never have. I generally snap mine because i push too hard into hardwood. My masonary drills I tend to go for midrange priceing.
Dave
Hi @EricL
"I've made the mistake of using a generic masonry bit that ended up ruining my drill."
Any chance of some more details on what happened. Just curious. 👍
Cheers.
@EricL
I second @Noyade ,That would be perfect for Mistakes with tools that we have done? 😀 Yeah cheaky smile lol
Hi Dave @Dave-1
Yes, I too have a masonry bit versus drill experience, so I'm interested to see what Eric has to say. 👍
And hi @Ange11
"Not Ryobi's 40 piece set its rubbish."
May I ask what issues you had? You can see I'm missing some Ryobi long PH2 drive bits. The stems shattered in a spiral fashion after very short use.
I like the Kango bits and the Full Boars are even better (just my opinion). I intensely dislike the 'magnetic' bit holders that come with most kits. The Kango comes with a bit holder that is a combination magnet and 'wire' lock - which is better than most, but you can get bit holders that unlock and lock by pulling down on a collar engaging a wire brace. Absolutely locked solid.
"Yes, I too have a masonry bit versus drill experience."
Hi @Dave-1 @EricL
25 years ago I was buying only "the best of the best" and had acquired the famous Southern Cross Tool brand of a SDS hammer drill, from Clints.
Only the best....
In a nutshell I must have drilled the wrong diameter hole in the concrete for an ankascrew.
So I re-drilled a larger diameter - but the bit became totally embedded and stuck. Putting the drill in reverse only produced a 'clacking' (safety clutch?) sound with no movement.
Disengaged the drill bit.
Had to use a pipe wrench to remove the bit.
Tried to re-screw the ankascrew with my BigW $12.95c socket set (only the best) - and the 11/16 socket shattered into three pieces.
Welded it together as a reminder of a rather unsuccessful DIY day.
Such is life.
Hi @Noyade
When I first started handling power tools, I was not yet familiar with overheating, hand tool limits and cool down/rest process. I just kept going and learned the hard way that tools as well as drill bits need a breather. The drill bit got ruined and the tool ended up in the bin.
Evening All and sorry @Ange11 🙂
So here is a throw in question as it has bugged me since my apprenticeship days 🙂 I had to drill a bunch of gun metal bollards and the drill would catch in the gun metal everytime. Made no difference the size of the drill/pilot hole. Id go slow, fast and it would catch and wrap around and belt my leg (still remember the "wrench" Any suggestions to throw in on how to drill gun metal (The hole had to be 1/2")?
Hi @Dave-1
I've run into this situation before, and my friends gave me a hard time about it as they hid the drill press guide so that I would have to drill the holes manually. Despite using a steel punch, the drill bit would catch on the asymmetrically curved surface of the pipe work I was drilling into. It would wobble and catch the sides as there was no guide. Eventually the drill press guide magically appeared, and I managed to finish my work, but not before ruining 2 access holes and a drill bit.
It might be possible to build a timber drilling guide to prevent the drill bit and drill from wobbling or leaning if you are only doing a few holes. But accessibility and space availability are some of the key things you'll need to contend with.
HI @Ange11
Just another tip, is to consider a drill bit set that has a reduced shank for bits over 10mm, even though your drill might have a 13mm chuck, I have been caught out helping a mate out needing a 12mm hole which he had a bit for, but didn't fit his 10mm drill.
G'day Dave. @Dave-1
"Any suggestions to throw in on how to drill gun metal (The hole had to be 1/2")"
I'm familiar with the 'wrench' you mentioned on the other page - especially beyond the 12mm diameter as the cutting edges 'grab' the back of the metal. I related to you how years ago I destroyed a small electric drill with a 10mm bit which shattered at that same moment with cogs and gears rolling down the driveway. This was drilling in the vertical plane.
My solution after that experience - was to acquire bigger and heavier drills to counter that 'wrench' - and with very low RPM. I bought a variety from Sunday markets and swap meets.
At the top of the one seen below you can install a length of threaded gal pipe.
Plenty of drawbacks. Big, heavy and I am distrustful of all-metal machines (even a metal trigger fitted) electrically. But there were no further issues with big drill bits.
Acquiring the drill-press and using lubricants have tended to solve most problems these days, Dave. But then, I've never drilled bollards.
Cheers mate!
Morning @Noyade
I pretty much ended up with a bigger heavy duty drill as well lol I also would wedge it against my leg so the spiining couldnt happen, tho it still tried. There was no way I colud lift the bollards to get them near any drill press as they were solid (meant to stop dockyard workers from damaging the phone service inside lol)
On a side note it was my task to repair if possible the drills that broke (very few were able to be as they all had plastic bearing mounts and that was what would crack)
Thank you for confiming tho 🙂
