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How to join 42.4mm dowel to timber panel?

Hi Community,

I am thinking to make console and side tables, with Tasmanian Oak panel, and with thick dowels as legs. The thickest dowel I can find in Bunnings is Tasmanian Oak Dowel 42.4mm diameter (https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-42-4-x-42-4mm-1-2m-tasmanian-oak-dowel-1-2m_p0082332). My thought is to drill a rounded hole (with forstner bit) of like 10mm deep in the panel of 19mm thick then join the dowel with the panel. However, I am not able to find a forstner bit of matching size. The next smaller dowel is of 35mm diameter which there are matching forstner bits available, but the dowel is less strong due to smaller diameter. How can I deal with this forstner bit not found problem, do I have to resort to 35mm solution?

Thanks,

Alfred

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twocutekelpies

Hi @alfredx

Is 44mm too big? I appreciate it won't be the exact size but with an expanding adhesive like Gorilla glue, would it suit? https://www.bunnings.com.au/irwin-1-3-4-44mm-forstner-bit_p0355147

An alternative option may be using leg plates and leg studs, available in 3/8" and 5/16", I have linked to 3/8".

Cheers

Shelley

JacobZ

Hi @alfredx,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

Thank you for your question about joining timber dowels to flat timber panels to create a console and side table.

It looks like Shelley (@twocutekelpies) has already provided some fantastic advice and the option of leg plates and studs would be perfect for this application.

It seems like you might be looking to avoid visible hardware though. Is this correct?

You could use the 35mm Forstner bit to drill a hole in the 42.4mm dowel, then insert a 35mm dowel and glue it in place. You could then do the same on the timber panel and glue them together this way.

You would have much thicker legs, but it would essentially have the same result as just using the 35mm dowels as the legs.

Another option is to use 75mm Timber Screws down through the timber panel into the dowel. This would give a good strong connection, and you could sink the screw below the surface of the timber and cover it with timber filler to conceal the screw head.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

alfredx

Many thanks @twocutekelpies and @JacobZ for the suggestion. Correct, I do hope to avoid visible hardware. The approaches sound pretty good, I'll see how they go. I am just not quite understanding why dowel 42.4mm is made while there is matching drill bit for it though.

Noyade

Possibly a silly idea, but - experiment with a template and a plunge router to get the diameter you want?

alfredx

@Noyade, that sounds a great idea. I know router is versatile and can get many jobs done. Just I don't have a plunge router, and I am a beginner, feeling router is bit dangerous and tricky to handle.

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