How to restore Mango wood dining table?

Nadjrose

Heyo restoring a lovely mango wood dining table that was incredibly sticky and shiny from many wax coats.

I have stripped it all back and am now in the sanding process.

The table was made with boards, not a slab, and I'm hoping to have more of a slab look and less uneven on top!

Should I be trying to even it out with staining or sanding?

We have a walnut stain (foodsafe etc) that's supposed to need 3 coats.

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JacobZ

Hi @Nadjrose,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community and thank you for your question about your mango wood table.

Unfortunately, due to the differences in the grain pattern between the laminated boards, it is never going to look like a single slab. When any stain or oil is added, the grain is accentuated which will make it clear that it is laminated boards instead of a slab.

The only way I can see that would hide the fact you have laminated boards as opposed to a slab, is to paint the tabletop, which completely defeats the purpose of having a live edge table, which is to show off the natural beauty of the timber.

You can minimise the gaps by mixing fine saw dust with wood glue and using it as a filler, but it looks like the glue up left very little gap, so this wouldn't be the most effective.

Using a dark stain, such as walnut will help to disguise the colour differences between the boards, but unfortunately, I think you are just going to have to live with the fact it won't look like a single slab of timber.

Allow me to tag @Nailbag, @Noyade and @Dave-1 for their thoughts.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Noyade

My thoughts are Jacob's thoughts.

I think it will still look very good when finished. 👍

Nadjrose

Hey just not understanding what you mean by laminated boards, each board is solid timber and the thing weighs about 100kgs. Unsure if that changes things or not

Dave-1

Good Evening @Nadjrose

I think @JacobZ is meaning by laminated boards the whole lot across the table is "laminated" as in built of of layers.

I have put a table together much like yours tho mine had bigger gaps 🙂 and like you I was wondering how to "smooth" it out as I dont have a timber planer thicknesser. I Was working with hardwood and aged hardwood at that so it was easier in one way and hard in another. I used an electric planning tool and sanded it some but mostly the planner.

I was concerned about gouging the timber or removing too much.

Here is my build for the table Dining table build and seats reupholstering

Your table top looks in great condition after removing the wax you mention. I would be reluctant to sand it as I think it looks pretty level. As to staining it, maybe try staining a bit of the underside first to see how it will look? I know my table went from a rich redder to a darker red/brown overthe course of a few stains. I havnt had to restain it since I built it and the surface still repels water.

One way to judge how smooth your table top is, place a plate on it and see if it rocks. 🙂 Mine does, but I am still happy with the process for the way I built it. So I chalk it up to being rustic and one of a kind 🙂

Dave

MitchellMc

Hi @Nadjrose,

No, that won't change the advice @JacobZ has provided. He's just pointing out that due to the colour variation, it would be difficult to make it all look the same. Using a stain will make it look more uniform, but unless you saturate it, there will still be a variation in colour. I'd suggest you do a test section on the underside of the table to see if staining achieves your desired result.

Mitchell

Nadjrose

Thanks gang,

The previous stain is very dark so will do a bit more sanding and then just stain it then.

Probably over generalising by saying slab - just slightly less grossly uneven in colour is what I'm after 😂

Will do the above!

Nailbag

I addition to @JacobZ recommendations @Nadjrose I would fill any knot holes etc with a transparent timber resin filler before applying the final clear coat. This will give a continuous grain finish without using any coloured finish. I have a couple of spotted gum shelves and benchtops I've applied this to and it look and feel terrific. There are many types around, none of which are cheap. Just Google "transparent timber resin fillers" to find one suitable.

Nailbag

Definitely worth spending the extra couple of hours sanding the old dar stain out. The lighter original grain will look awesome.

Nailbag

Nadjrose

Hello gang after what feels like infinite hours of sanding and filling holes, I'm now ready to stain it. I'm currently planning on Cabot's deck stain water based in Walnut.

My question is, is there anything I should know before staining or apply?

Prestain is very American / wood conditioner - is this worth doing?

I have a stain applicator pad and stick thing, and I've sanded the edges to 600 grit and the top to 400 grit so it's smooth as a baby's butt.

Appreciate any additional tips before we start staining!

Additionally should i sand between layers of stain the recommendation on the box is 3 layers.

Or do I sand post staining?

Thanks again

JacobZ

Hi @Nadjrose,

You've done an absolutely wonderful job so far. The sanding has really brought out the natural beauty of the timber.

Mango wood is a dense, slightly porous hardwood, so it doesn’t absorb stain as unevenly as softer woods like pine. While a wood conditioner is commonly used to prevent blotching, it’s not essential for mango wood, especially when using a water-based stain. Since you’ve sanded to a fine grit, the surface should already be well prepared for an even stain application.

Before staining, the main thing is to ensure that every last bit of sawdust has been removed from the surface. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove as much of the sawdust as possible, then wipe the surface down with a lightly damp cloth. Allow the surface to dry and then vacuum again.

Make sure you gently stir the stain with a paint stirrer; don't shake it, as this will introduce air bubbles that can cause blotchiness.

When applying the stain, use even strokes with your applicator pad, working in the direction of the grain to ensure a smooth and uniform finish. Apply thin coats rather than trying to achieve full coverage in one go, as building up the colour gradually will produce the best results and give you the most control over the look. Let the stain sit for about 5–10 minutes, then wipe off any excess with a clean cloth to prevent a patchy or sticky finish. Work in manageable sections to maintain consistency and ensure proper drying time between coats as recommended on the product label.

With water-based stains, there is usually no need for sanding between coats, however, the addition of water can make wood fibres stand up. After the first coat of stain has dried, run your hand over the surface. If you feel some roughness, it is worth giving the surface a light sand with some high-grit sandpaper. If you don't feel any roughness, you should be fine to move on to your second coat.

The best advice I can give is to take your time. It's been a slow process up to this point, so there is no reason to sprint to the finish line. Apply thin coats, working up to the desired finish and feeling the timber as you go.

I can't wait to see the finished product. I'm sure it will look magnificent.

Jacob

Nadjrose

Thank you for this excellent and comprehensive response!

I look forward to posting pics when I eventually finish it 😊😊

Nailbag

Wow @Nadjrose this is starting to look awesome, you have done a terrific job in the sanding.

Before staining, wipe the top down with long wipes down the grain with tack wipes. These will remove any micro fine debris for a smoother finish.

As @JacobZ mentioned, you shouldn’t need to sand between coats. But if you feel any fine wood hairs after the first coat, just lightly run 1200g paper evenly over the entire the top and not just in any area. Doing so especially on first coats will leave noticeable changes in finish.

Look forward to the final photos.

Nailbag

Dave-1

Afteroon @Nadjrose

That is looking brilliant, And @JacobZ's level of knowledge is well and trully above mine 🙂 I have nothingto even think of adding!

Dave

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