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How to fit the washing machine?

Hi,

I've made some good progress on my laundry reno but have hit a large and very frustrating hurdle.

Basically the cabinet installer has not done his measurements correctly (despite the washing machine being in the same room as him at the time of install), and has installed the brand new benchtop too low for the washing machine to fit in.

My washing machine is 85 cm tall, and at the back of the cabinet the height is just under 84 cm. As the floor slopes towards the drain, the height at the front is just under 85.

The floor where the washing machine will go already has a hole in it, which is where the old cabinet went.

I just did the tiling back and sealant on the benchtop myself, and the sink has been installed so raising the benchtop isn't an option anymore.

The washing machine has already been lowered as much as possible and I thought about taking off the top but I really don't want to do that with all the wiring exposed.

So I figured the only option is to cut out the tiles - the question is how? Some of the tiles are split on either side of the base panel - is there a way to cut them?

And any recommendations on how to level up the floor once it's lowered so the washing machine can kind of slide in?

Thanks so much!

Louise

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Jason

How attached are you to your washing machine @Louise88?

I would think the easiest solution might be to replace it with a model that fits in the space.

Jason

EricL

Hi @Louise88

That was an excellent suggestion from Jason. But, if you are intent on cutting the tiles, I suggest using a grinder with a tile cutting wheel attached. This will allow you to make precision cuts on the tile itself. You can technically keep cutting until there is enough space to slide the washing machine in place. Please make sure to wear personal protection such as glove, goggles and a dust mask. Once the tiles are cut you can use a hammer and a chisel to remove them.

However, if this an error made by the builder, I suggest calling them back to rectify the incorrect installation.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

Eric

Louise88

Hi Eric & Jason,

Thanks so much for the responses! I am not at all married to my washing machine but I have done some research and they all seem to come at a standard 85cm height!

Alas I have also tried to get the builder to rectify this but have received no response as I have already paid for the install. Lesson learned, check all the measurements are correct before paying..

Thanks for the advice, if I can't find a shorter washing machine I will give it a crack with the angle grinder like you suggest Eric.

Thank you,

Louise

EricL

Hi @Louise88

Remember that you also have the option hiring a handy person.

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your washing machine installed and ready for use.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Morning @Louise88

😕 A few "buggers" and then thinking how to best procede 😕

I dont like the idea of cutting tiles at all, plus the floor slopes to the rear you were saying so you will have to factor in the ability to make level the washing machine.

I would bite the bullet and raise your benchtop 20mm (well 19mm) with some pine dar on top of the cabinet between it and the bench top.

42 x 19mm 1.8m DAR Pine Premium - 1.8m

There will be some screws from either brackets underneath the benchtop or straight through some timber flats to remove.

Your sealant you will have to remove and redo.

The benchtop I would "cheat:" and bring it forward the thickness of the tiles so it will still have a tile backing. (And yeah I get the frustration of the odd height tiles may bring 😕 )

The Gooseneck under the sink may need an extendingpiece fitted but they are available from Bunnings.

The taps hopefully with have a flexible hose to the underside.

I was just chatting to one of my workmates when I realised if you chisel out the tiles , then if there is ever a leak or overflow the water would want to pool in that missing tile section.

Id vote raise the benchtop by 19mm even tho it may seem to be a pain overall i think it will be easier.

Dave

MitchellMc

I'm on the same page @Louise88.

I wouldn't cut the tiles, I'd bring the bench out from under them and raise it in front of them. That will leave you with a slight overhang from the tiles on the right and a tile thickness proud of them on the front. You'll then just need to deal with the gap between the bench and the cabinet, as well as the side panel, which was going to happen either way.

Mitchell

Nailbag

Hi @Louise88

I see you already have some great suggestions by the team to consider already, so here are some pro's and con's plus one more to consider.

Firstly whichever method you do to gain the height, it's very important with a front loader that you allow for adjustment. They can be very sensitive to an uneven floor causing severe vibration when spin drying due to it being off-balance. The flow on effect can cause other issues. And definitely do not remove the top of the machine for obvious reasons of exposed electrical and electronic cables.

Cutting the tiles will be extremely difficult to get a straight edge. I would go as far and say impossible freehand with a grinder without a guide. Plus as @MitchellMc mentioned you still need to deal with raising the benchtop and filling the gap. Instead, removing the bottom row of tiles the replacing them would be the easiest and safer option.

The idea @MitchellMc had to unfix the benchtop and pull it out just enough to clear the tiles is an excellent one. But you still have to deal with raising the benchtop. Thats not going to be too difficult, but you will need to disconnect and remove the trough and tap fitting. @Dave-1 has given some great steps on how to do this.

You probably should allow to increase the bench around 15-20mm due to needing that machine feet adjustment wiggle-room. Something like this 18mm square DAR pine flush to any exposed edges would be ideal to sit on the 16mm cabinetry. There is a 12mm square option if thats too big. I would just use a good wood glue for this and brad nail it down in a few spots to secure it in place. You could either use a satin white paint to the exposed sides of the DAR pine or fix a thin strip of white aluminium flat bar.

Ok, for another possible solution and one I have had to do before because raising the benchtop wasn't an option, was to lower the floor just in the cavity. I removed the tiles and cement underlay level with the front of the cabinet. I then sanded the area smooth after checking the levels. I applied a couple of coats of a good clear oil to seal the timber floor. Then I set the rear feet at their almost lowest point, which allowed me to simply push the machine in slowly as the rear feet dropped down about 15mm. Then continued to push it all the way in until the front feet dropped in. I check the machine was stable and had to tweak one of the front feet. Turned the machine on with clothes in it and a high spin speed to check stability and all was good . . phew!

Good luck and keen to hear how you go

Nailbag

Noyade

G'day @Louise88

"I am not at all married to my washing machine"

This is good to know. 😁

It's probably an urban myth - but there is a story of a semi-trailer being completely wedged under a low railway bridge and no amount of energy and machinery could un-wedge it.

Until a 10 year old boy suggested letting all the air outta the truck's tyres.

Any chance you can provide us with photos of your front-loader's legs?

With the aim of lowering them further - and maybe completely removing one?

My thought involves glued rubber.

I looked at mine - if I was in a similar situation I believe I could gain 20mm - but then I love my machine.

But I didn't love it always. In the beginning it did not fit through the doorway - true story, I had to remove the door-frame so I do appreciate your frustration.

Please keep us posted - and let us know soon how you got on.

Cheers.

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