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How to fix or replace Jayco caravan windows?

Looks a mess I have pulled the front window out of my 1993 Jayco caravan as it was leaking. To find this horrible mess grrrrr. I’ve come here for suggestions. The first 6 pics below are what the window looked like when I took it out. The silicone was terrible. I noticed the silicone had trapped water in parts of the window which rotted the frame. I have cleaned off the old silicone. So I’ll take them out and replace them. The last pics are the end product.
Questions

Should I replace the aluminium cladding, or can it be repaired

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Tools and Materials

Repairing

Doors and Windows

Comments

JacobZ

Hi @Peppers,

Allow me to start the conversation by tagging in some of our keen caravan renovators, such as @twocutekelpies and @Peggers to see what they think.

I can't say I'm an expert on caravans, having never worked on one myself, but the aluminium cladding certainly does look a bit rough around the edges.

Have you considered what kind of window you will be putting back in? Does it have a flange around it?

I imagine installing a flanged window that covers the rough edges would still look good, and ensuring it is well sealed will help prevent further rot.

Based purely on opinion, I think it is salvageable, however, I will tag in others to see what they think - @Nailbag, @Noyade and @Dave-1.

Jacob

Noyade

Sorry @Peppers

Thanks for the tag @JacobZ .

But I have no experience with caravans - other than angry memories when the Hume Highway was not dual carriageway.

😕

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53408#Comment_53408

Afternoon @Peppers

Mmmm I went straight to a flashinga round the window to cover the rough edges and then @JacobZ used the correct term with flange 🙂 I would suspect that a new window will have some overlap from the outside for this very purpose. I think I would leave the aluminium as is and have a look around at what type of caravan windows there are.

Dave

Nailbag

Hi @Peppers

I have repaired quite a few caravans in mine time and all Jayco's with some form of water leak, ingress or loose connections of some form.

The first important step is to repair the timber frame. Cutting out the rot, applying wood hardener, bogging the missing sections and reshaping. Then apply a good base primer.

from the photos I don't think you need to replace the cladding. Just ensure when installing the new window that it's properly flashed and siliconed into place. I have used this product to basically re-seal areas that may be damaged that extend past the window frame.

Nailbag

Peppers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53436#Comment_53436

I appreciate your comment. I will definitely do what you have suggested. I have replaced the rotted frame that can be seen in the pics. I’ll also get some wood hardener.

Peppers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53436#Comment_53436

You mentioned bogging. What did you use. I was going to use a waterproof membrane that I have used on the roof of my caravan as a back up as well to waterproof around the window. I will get the weather aluminium flashing and wood hardner

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/88929#Comment_88929

Hi @Peppers,

I can't say for sure what @Nailbag used in the past, but Builder's Bog is perfect as long as it is used on the inside of the window and doesn't get exposed to water.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/88929#Comment_88929

Hi @Peppers

sorry I did mean Builder's Bog as @JacobZ picked up and is ideal to replace the rotted timber sections.

Nailbag

Peppers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53436#Comment_53436

Hi you mentioned you used CA weatherf flashing. Do you have pics as I don’t know how to use this

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89033#Comment_89033

Hi @Peppers,

Allow me to tag @Nailbag so he is notified of your question.

For a bit of an explanation, CAgroup 150 x 10m x 0.3mm Weatherflash is like a big roll of very thick aluminium foil. It is impervious to water and is therefore very useful for weatherproofing.

In your case, you could cut it to size using aviation snips, bend it around the shape of the window opening, and then fix it in place with some screws or rivets. This would offer a high level of protection to the timber frame of the window.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89033#Comment_89033

HI @Peppers

This flashing should work which is the same @JacobZ linked. It's one;y .3mm so it can easily be cut with sharp scissors. I use these ones which are a great little pair of scissors you can use to cut all sorts off materials and they stay sharp.

You will need to make little V-style slits as you go around the winder frame corners

Nailbag

Screenshot 2025-06-21 at 8.49.26 pm.png

Peppers

Hi all, I’m feeling a little defeated, however I’m moving forward. I went to put my window back in. Unfortunately parts of the caravan framing came undone. I’ll put new framing in. My question is. What kind of nail gun should I get, which will also go through aluminium.

Peppers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110270#Comment_110270

Hi Jacob, the window is really testing me. I wasn’t too sure how to use the weather flash so I took it back to Bunnings. Then you posted this message lol. To be honest I am not too sure how to use it. I seriously need to see a video of using this

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53711#Comment_53711

Hello @Peppers

Don't loose hope, these setbacks are to be expected in the D.I.Y game. Things break down unexpectedly and they need to be repaired. It would be better seeing them now rather than later when all the parts are attached and your wall is fully covered up. My best advice is to replace the broken piece with a similar piece. I also recommend using the same fixings that the piece was using screws/ blind rivets or a combination of the two. It is not necessary to use a nail gun for your window repairs.

Let me call on our experienced members @twocutekelpies and @LizzieCro for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

LizzieCro

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53711#Comment_53711

Hi Peppers,

Don't feel discouraged. Things go wrong and they're all fixable.

When you say 'parts of the caravan framing came undone' do you mean the actual framing inside the caravan wall? If so, I'm assuming a piece of horizontal timber fell down?? Nail guns aren't suitable for this work, as you'd easily puncture your aluminium. Shelley @twocutekelpies would probably be able to give you the best advice on this, as she's rebuilt many van frames. Could you take some photos of what's happened and post them here? It's difficult to know how to advise without seeing the actual problem. I imagine using screws would be best if possible, and, if necessary L-shaped brackets to join vertical with horizontal, but it all depends on how much access you have.

If it's the window frame which has come apart, that's held together with 316 Marine Grade cup head screws. You can just re-use the original ones if the threads are good, or take a couple with you and buy the same again. I had the same van you have, so here's a photo of my window. You can see that the main frame has screws holding it in, but those wedge shaped black parts (I can't recall their name), are riveted in. Rivet guns are easy to use and pretty cheap. Bunnings have them in the Tools section.

You'll be right mate. Just don't rush it. It won't do you any favours. Screenshot 2025-06-22 220559.png

twocutekelpies

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53711#Comment_53711

Hi @Peppers

Like @LizzieCro, I'm going to assume the timber frame is falling apart. I've had to reconstruct the timber around windows before after it had completely rotted away. In my old vans, the timber framing was originally stapled together and 30mm thick, which is quite hard to find now so I used 12mm and 18mm meranti, both 30mm wide to re-create the frame. I stapled and screwed the new frame together and used the aluminium opening and the window to help guide me to sizing, you're lucky that you still have original timber to guide you.

Screenshot 2025-06-23 031104.png
If you need to re-make the curved corners, this can be done with a jigsaw and following the below order of cuts so that you're not working with tiny bits of wood.
Screenshot 2025-06-23 030912.png

From your other window post, I can see that your cladding has been fastened to the timber frame with narrow crown staples, this was quite common and not unusual for them to rust out. You should be able to use side cutters or similar to cut them off to remove the rotten part of the frame ready for replacement.
I use air staple guns - narrow and wide crown, these are also available in 18v but if you don't have them, don't rush out and get them unless they'll be used for other projects as well. Frames can be screwed together and cladding can probably be tacked on with small nail tacks.

You can replace the plastic moulding that covers the frame from inside, most caravan repair shops sell this, it's much softer and more pliable that the angle at Bunnings, don't kink it though because it's impossible to get the kinks out. This is best done before the window goes in but after the internal lining goes on but I can appreciate that you need to get the window in and resealed. This may make it harder down the track but not impossible. With the window still out, it is easier to cut the internal cladding to size and router around the frame to make it tidy.

Screenshot 2025-06-23 033322.png

The plastic moulding can be stapled in or screwed in with flat stitching screws (Bunnings has these in 13mm white)

Screenshot 2025-06-23 033347.png

The moulding has to be pushed right in against the frame all the way around or the window won't fit back in.

Screenshot 2025-06-23 033407.png

I like to put the window in without sealant (only a few screws needed to hold in place), then use painters tape to make clean up later on a lot easier

Screenshot 2025-06-23 033426.png

I have had many defeated days and walked away for a bit, glad to hear you're moving forward and not letting it beat you.

Good luck and keep at it

Shelley

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122504#Comment_122504

Hi @Peppers,

As the aluminium flashing product is a general-use product with a huge variety of uses, you're unlikely to find a video showing your specific use case. There will be videos of aluminium flashings being installed, but I doubt you'd find one showing this exact thing.

The basic idea is that because it is malleable and impervious to water, it can be formed around the shape of the opening to prevent water from soaking into the timber beneath.

Since you have returned it, this CAgroup 100mm x 10m Weatherproof Byute Flash Flashing Tape might be a better option, as you would simply cut it to length and tape up the opening.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Peppers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89078#Comment_89078

Thank you Eric, your encouragement is helpful

Peppers

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89083#Comment_89083

I noticed that this part (framing) came off when I put the window in. I had to tear away some lining that put in, hence it looks horrific

The blue arrows show what framing needs to be replaced as that is what came away. The green arrows is what I put in as it was rotten.

This area gets wet. I have no idea where the leak is coming from. I need to replace this area

Hi Shelley, thank you for sharing with me. It has tested me, but I am determined. Looks like I will need to replace the timber framing and be confident that it will stay in place when I take it on the road, once it is done. I need to buy more plastic window moulding, and make sure it is tight as a whistle so the window goes back in and doesn’t leak. (Fingers crossed). I have an 18v cordless nail gun. I hope this will work. I have a pop top, do I need to prop the roof while I sort the framing. Here are some pics of my nightmare

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110311#Comment_110311

Hello @Peppers

I can only suggest that as soon as you have the window re-installed, I suggest making sure that the frame of the window is totally flush with body of the caravan. There should be a minimal gap like 3 to 5mm and you can fill this gap with silicone. Once the silicon cures, the best way to test this is to turn your garden hose to shower function and spray the window surround. If leaks still occur, you either missed a spot or the window seals are not fully installed.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

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