Hi guys, just looking for some ideas to help with making the exhaust pipe not as hot, it will be going outside under an outdoor blind and just dont want the kids touching either either
Hi @laurat1989,
Can you post some photos please.
Thanks
Hello @laurat1989
Thank you for sharing your question about your diesel exhaust pipe. In order for our members to get a better idea of its proposed position, would it be possible for you to post a few photos of where you plan on positioning the exhaust pipe? Once we see the size of the pipe, we'll be able to offer recommendations on how to cover or place a barrier to prevent it from being touched.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Hi guys please see photos. We ideally dont want to have the outdoor blind up...could we some how get the exhaust pipe out of this wooden wall to the outside?
@EricL @AlanM52
Thank you for posting those extra pictures. I propose using an Exhaust Wrap 2" X 15', Fibreglass Black W/Stainless Ties - CAL-H1011BK. Built for automotive use it should provide excellent insulation and lower the outside temperature of the exhaust pipe.
Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Nailbag, @TedBear, @JoeAzza and @SRBENET for their recommendations.
If you need further assitance, please let us know.
Tagging @EricL,
I see no reason why you can't do that...
What is the diameter of the exhaust pipe?
I have started window shopping for things we might need, all a bit tentative at this stage.
Here's another idea I like this one.
https://altrish.co.uk/2019/10/08/installing-an-externally-mounted-diesel-heater-for-heating-the-workshop/
Have to go the footy is on... I'll be back.
Good Evening @laurat1989
Mmmm little warning bells started going off in my head about carbon monoxide buildup/poisoning. Fully admit I dont know enough to give an opinion but would definently check out the ruling. There have been too many instances of enclosed spaces being heated via wrong type heaters for the space.
Mainly cautious is all.
Just went looking up info about it, its mainly mean for tents, caravans/rv'd and boats. Local councils will have a set of rules so you could check there to make sure its allowable.
To answer your question (yeah if its allowable lol ) I would go through your timber fence, Would treat it like a short horizontal flu for a fireplace. So a smaller centered tube with a larger one around it. That way there is an air gap insulation between the two so your timber wont cook/blacken. I would then make the exhaust go straight up with the same chimeny style to just above the eves of your house so the funes exit away from you.
Scandia 1m External Flue Extension is the type of tube I am thinking of.
Dave
I totally agree with @Dave-1's caution in regards to your heating installation. In the interest of health and safety please make sure to follow the installation instruction of your heater. I would also double check the rules and regulations of your local council in regards to its installation. Accidental carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning is a serious and potentially fatal risk that occurs when CO gas builds up in enclosed or poorly ventilated spaces. Carbon monoxide is colourless, odourless, and tasteless, making it especially dangerous because it cannot be detected by human senses.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Hi @laurat1989
Your scenario isn't ideal as the only real way to protect the wooden wall is more distance between the exhaust. But that mean lifting the blind which opens up its full width.
The Exhaust Wrap 2" X 15', Fibreglass Black W/Stainless Ties - CAL-H1011BK @EricL suggests will significantly reduce the radiant heat and definite;y something you should apply. Then its a matter of closely observing the surrounding area for heat damage.
For an alternative solution, you could combine the wrap and lift the lid a little more. Then fill the gap with a few door snakes. Just keep its distance well clear of the pipe.
Nailbag
Agree... that's why I also proposed external install.
Hi @laurat1989 like the others & yourself, I am concerned about getting away from those exhaust gases.
I would definitely go through the timber wall, with a hole as small as you can get away with to prevent exhaust coming back in, but also large enough to allow heat to be kept away from the timber. I'd suggest fitting a metal flange that will allow the pipe to go through and wrap it in tape (as already suggestioned).
To get the exhaust away from people, I suggest mounting a length of metal downpipe on the other side of the wall such that the muffler outlet can rest in or near its opening. You'll need to mount the pipe so that it's clear of the wall though, as it needs to get warm to work as an exhaust remover. (Explained below.)I suggest some metal hooks such as Everhang 50mm Zinc Plated Square Hooks, staggered a little so the pipe won't swing sideways.
https://bunnings.com.au/applinks_p0046411Buy longer if you can find them. Tie downpipe to hooks with stainless steel cable ties. The idea is that the hot exhaust gas will heat the body of the pipe, which will cause an updraft in it to draw the exhaust away. Don't seal the muffler to the downpipe (or whatever pipe you choose) as this could cause the device to malfunction (it's not an exhaust pump) and it needs a little fresh air coming into the pipe to help create a good updraft.
This is the same principle that the old Metters wood stoves used, to get hot air from a fire sitting above the oven to flow down and around the oven, then up the hot flue.
